Do you know what thermistor is used in the extruder? Is that a 100k thermistor? My thermistor wires have broken and I'd like to replace it.

Its a 100k

Sorry for revive the topic. Does anybody know how to fully disassemble the nozzle of the XYZ?

Once you removed it from the printer, unplug the thermistor wire. You will see the throat in the inside in there  is a bolt holding it onto the bracket it should be 10mm. Once you remove the bolt it will drop right out.  You will probably will need two pair of pliers, the throat will screww right off the nozzle.

Also, noticed the extruder heats up faster now, so must of had a weak connection for awhile.
Purchased 11/14.
1.1.G
Slic3R
NetFab Basic
B9 Creator supports
XYZWareMod
Manual reset

Thanks,

So far this modification has worked perfectly; no more extruder clicking or 011 error.

until I found a short that would come and go ...

it was the heater core connector (black plastic two pin connector btwn the insulated red heat shrunk tipped wires. and the thicker white colored wires. Found melted black plastic on the metal connector tips inside the connector. The connector looks perfect externally. Seriously thought the machine was possessed. Cleaned the head three times, readjusted belts, checked wires ... I never would have though the plastic caps would have melted internally enough so they would work half the time esp from a cold start and malfunction during let say a large 24hr print. The speedier settings using slicer gcode brought out the gremlin consistanlty last night.

Ended up taking off the female caps with the red insulated end then crimped, heat shrunk individually to the male tips... then ...will just upload a picture.

So far no issues.

Unfortunately without seeing it, I can't recommend anything.  I am not familiar with the thermal resistor.  Mind if I ask what you ended up paying for it?

I have about $180 in the whole printer at the moment.

I'll try to update with pictures as soon as I notice that the forum will let me.

The conclusion that I've come to, is that someone bought this one exclusively for its print head, and sent their old head back with it. I spent a fair little while cleaning disassembling the nozzle and feed tube, and found that it was blocked with burnt up, ashen, filament. I drilled that out with a push drill.

I may just look into doing a conversion to a better head unit entirely, if my 8$ worth or replacement thermistors doesn't work out.

This one was purchased from an amazon returns liquidator in as-is condition, so returns aren't really an option. That said, I don't have normal retail price in it yet, so buying repair parts or modding it to get it to work is still an option for me.

I was going to use my dropbox for the picture, but can't do links yet either.

From what I have seen on my machine all the parts except those custom metal and plastic are standard run of the mil printer parts. With exception to the mainboard as well.

The heater on the extruder is a standard 12volt heater cartridge. The thermistor is the standard 100k thermistor that all or most printers use. You can get them all over ebay, just need Teflon tubing over the leads unless you can find on with it already. If it came out of the heater block cleanly then you just need to get a new one make sure the leads are insulated and slide it back into the existing hole. To secure it I would use just a dab of high temp RTV. That way you can remove it if needed or be creative. Just remember that part can reach over 250C. So use a method that is forgiving but can withstand the heat.

You can even get lucky sometimes and fine them prewired and ready to slip right in and connect. Of course the connector may not match ours but you can splice the wires.