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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — SD2 E3D v6-  thermocouple or thermomister?]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/8204/" />
	<updated>2014-11-04T15:55:31Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/8204/sd2-e3d-v6-thermocouple-or-thermomister/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: SD2 E3D v6-  thermocouple or thermomister?]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/70639/#p70639" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I had the same problem with the E3D thermistor, I mashed the wires and it wouldn&#039;t heat. <br /><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modular-Screw-on-M3-Stud-Thermistor-for-Reprap-Prusa-3D-Printer-Hot-End-Hotend-/321341736569?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;var=&amp;hash=item4ad175c679">Found THIS </a> on Ebay.&nbsp; I haven&#039;t adjusted the firmware or anything yet, my IMac doesn&#039;t want to seem to do anything Arduino related.&nbsp; Have about 20 - 25 prints and don&#039;t see any thermistor related problems - kept my original heat settings too.<br />A lot easier, for me anyway, than trying to manipulate the washer &amp; wires of the original.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Ski52]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-11-04T15:55:31Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/70639/#p70639</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: SD2 E3D v6-  thermocouple or thermomister?]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/70468/#p70468" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>If you use a thermocouple, you will also need a converter board:</p><p><a href="http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/external-thermocouple-board-v1-0">http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ … board-v1-0</a></p><p>The thermocouple (I carry them, too) has thicker wires and can support higher temperatures (over 300C).</p><p>The thermistor is fine though, if properly strain relieved - you need to secure the wiring so it cannot flex while printing. The reason thermistor wires are thin is to reduce thermal mass of the sensor, which improves response/accuracy.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[elmoret]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/221/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-11-02T23:42:28Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/70468/#p70468</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[SD2 E3D v6-  thermocouple or thermomister?]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/70461/#p70461" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>So i recently got a E3D V6, and unfortunately the thermomister wires snapped.&nbsp; &nbsp;I have a little under a cm of wire an either side, so reusing it is out of the picture.&nbsp; I want to, of course, get the new hotend working, and wanted to know what you guys would recommend a thermocouple or another thermomister.&nbsp; If i do go with the thermocouple are there any changes that must be made to the board or extra changes to the firmware?<br />thanks</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[mrniceguy119]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/2541/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-11-02T21:51:47Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/70461/#p70461</id>
		</entry>
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