The point is, most shafts have been hardened one way or another.

So, I cut these all the time with a dremel cut-off wheel. Take your time, and it it cuts easily. About 2 minutes on average.

not true at all. most shafts are not hardened. only special use shafts. all electric motor shafts and blower shafts used in HVAC and plumbing are very soft and damage easy when working on them like trying to change a fan blade, motor or bearing and a hack saw is all thats needed to cut them.

So, I cut these all the time with a dremel cut-off wheel. Take your time, and it it cuts easily. About 2 minutes on average.

UMmmm what rod is case hardened? and where did you hear that they where?

They're not, you're right. They're alloy steel (not sure whether they're actually induction hardened but it's not expensive in large volumes, really), and chrome plated and polished. If they're to a good tolerance, there's probably some grinding involved somewhere, but not necessarily. Similar to a padlock shackle, but with better tolerances! The effect as far as cutting off is concerned is the same: the outer surface is super hard, and the inner a bit softer (still alloy steel).

There are a couple of ways to surface-harden steel, case-hardening (the carburizing pack method) being just one. I find people I work with tend to keep using the term 'case-hardening' even when describing something like induction hardening (e.g. used on gear teeth, bearing races, shafts, etc.) - which incidentally doesn't create the oily colouring. As alloy steels appropriate for hardening are widely available, there's no longer much call for the traditional case-hardening methods (outside aesthetics and tradition, e.g. replica firearms). If anyone wants to know more, the wiki article is not bad this time: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Case_hardening

nearly all shafts on motors or pulley drive systems are not case hardened (they would look rainbow colored like old gun receivers or barrels that are not blued or Stainless) shafts are soft enough steel that they swell if struck with a hammer also they get chewed up by bronze bearings if not lubed well. thats why many times shafts need replaced along with bearings in any aplication used including JVAC. there is no need for case hardened shafts on 3D printers. if they where case hardened the Tin frame would not make burs on them and they would not take to set screws drilling etc plus cost would be many times what they are.

+100 patience too. Don't get cocky.

You might find a hacksaw helps to cut through the core of the rod (which is not as hard as the outer layer - case hardening in these rods is usually pretty thin).

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17101

Personally, in an effort to avoid having things go horribly wrong, I'd look for a nearby waterjet cutting service and find out how much they'd charge :-).

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-EZ-Lo … 1vZc25mZgr

You'll still need to square the cut end with a bench grinder...