I have tried decreasing speed, changing slicer, increasing filament usage, decreasing filament usage, increasing temps, decreasing temps. Anything I can think of to stop warping and getting better bridges. Though every print I have ever printed needed 8-10 layers to even get a good top bridge with 50% support. Overhanging bridges just dont work.
Kind of lost as to what to do though this is my first printer technicly. I was one of many who were scammed with the Makibox. 2 years later and I havent got that printer.
]]>As to the curling, that is something that can be mitigated if not cured. I won't promise your printer will perform the same as mine, but the hotbed on mine can go up to 115C. Which honestly is beyond the point where any of my "surface prep" other than abs slurry stay effective. I prefer hairspray and that tends to not like that much heat. But on a level bed with the first layer being printed close enough to "flatten" a little on the glass, I just don't have the print lift off, even if the corners warp a little.
Putting down a 20 line brim and getting good adhesion on that first layer is enough to make most of my prints usable if by no means perfect.
]]>The solution to making all of them work is to "Zero" as Cura expects it to be then rerun the DaVinci firmware bed level until the two match the same spot, or do a manual edit of the Z Zero position with a G92 command. The "code" fix version is detailed below.
Courtesy of RepRapWiki
"G92: Set Position
Example: G92 X10 E90
Allows programming of absolute zero point, by reseting the current position to the values specified. This would set the machine's X coordinate to 10, and the extrude coordinate to 90. No physical motion will occur.
A G92 without coordinates will reset all axes to zero."
So to do this just for Cura, you'd need to slice with XYZware, turn it off before the print knowing that the first layer is about .3 for the head above the plate. Measure the distance. Slice with Cura, turn the printer off when it does the 15MM move and measure that distance. Do the math, add the G1 Z?? then a G92 Z0 added to the code at the start of the gcode Cura generates or have it do it as part of it's start section. This would involve a bit of work, but would solve the issue. If you can't measure it easily, just start with a safe value (say 5mm) keep backing it off .3 at a time until the filament is close enough to stick to the glass. Then .05 or less until your satisfied with how much a line "flattens" on the first layer of a print.
]]>Removing the lowering of z by 15mm and or changing G28 X0 Y0 G28 Z0 to just G28 make a difference? I just dont want to throw random bits of gcode at the printer and find it smacking the print bed again and damaging it. The Z axes is the sme in both slic3r and cura so the whole z0.35 thing does not make sence to be causing it. Functions of the F commands?
]]>Your version of Cura is setting the first layer start at .35 above what Cura thinks is Zero. I have mine set to .3 first layer so I'm running a bit closer than you are, but the problem your having is that your Zero in firmware isn't very close to reality.
The best solution if you plan on using Cura is to slice a file and then edit it. Have the head move to whatever distance you've set the first layer to (appears to be .35) but edit it so it NEVER attempts to go over the glass. Once it does this move and then stops, turn the printer off and adjust the screws until you have a .35 gap when you move the head over the glass.
I could be wrong since I'm not and expert in gcode, but I'd think changing the line in your labyrinthGiftBox_bottom.gcode file at the top of layer 0 from G1 F4200 X92.660 Y74.957 Z0.350 to G1 F2700 X0 Y0 Z0.350 would make the bed go to the right level but have the head stay parked, you delete the rest of the file after that. You would then be able to turn off the machine and start adjusting until you have a real 0 on the Z setting.
]]>Rudster
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