<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom">
	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/7945/" />
	<updated>2015-06-05T17:54:26Z</updated>
	<generator>PunBB</generator>
	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/7945/heat-bed-too-hot-im-major-getting-warping/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/98030/#p98030" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>evanalmighty wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>Ideally, yes.&nbsp; But we&#039;re dealing with a lot more variables here than just the machine itself.&nbsp; Every color of the same filament brand can behave differently, let alone different brands of the same material.&nbsp; The shape/size/print time also play a big role in regards to warping etc.</p><p>I have 2 Da Vinci 1.0&#039;s and all I can say is one prints fine with 1st layer @100C and then down to 90C for the subsequent layers.&nbsp; On the other hand, the other printer will print almost everything without warping at 100C all the way through.&nbsp; It took a lot of trials and errors to dial in these beds.</p><p>And for those with glass beds, I would highly recommend this product here: <a href="http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping">http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prev … om-warping</a></p><p>I&#039;m using it on all 4 of my printers and it works amazing.&nbsp; The prints adheres so well to the glass at temperature, but once the bed cools down to 25C or so the parts just glides off kind of like the puck sliding around on an air hockey table.&nbsp; &nbsp;Well worth the money IMO.&nbsp; No more changing out tapes, no more ABS juice, no more glue sticks, no more ugly bottom surface of the prints.</p><div class="quotebox"><cite>n2ri wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>not gonna make last post a book lol.</p><p>I just wanted to say something that needs stated someplace on this site.<br /> I have been in many service/repair tech positions in my careers for about 40 years and nearly all machines/appliances had a service manual (except Solidoodle printers) and the 1st chapter of all said manuals had a &quot;sequence of Operation&quot; section which outlined in detail each step from power on thru finished operation telling what each component did to cause the next step to occur (under normal conditions all working correct). this was the 1st place you started when trouble shooting a machine to locate where problems where.&nbsp; it also told what settings should read (temps, volts, pressures...) and if any of them where adjustable in the field or by operator/consumer also schematics and trouble shooting diagnostic chart.<br />now if these 3D printer manufacturers (assuming they are smart enough to understand their printer functions) had such a manual (it wont give away trade secrets after all lol) this site would not be as needed nor would the manufacturer be creating so many dissatisfied customers that keep factory techs scratching their heads to try helping.</p><p>if you agree with this statement copy and email a copy to your printers manufacturer.</p><p>in the words of my old boss &quot;take your &#039;blinders&#039; off and look around outside the box for solutions&quot; search horse and buggies harness info to see what &#039;blinders&#039; are.</p></blockquote></div></blockquote></div><br /><p>I set my bed at 90 on my 1.0. I use only glass and Elmers purple glue sticks. I do slice with a 6mm 1 layer brim on all of my prints that later is easily removed and never issues with lifting , warping, or removal once cool. Once too much glue collects just lay a warm wet towel on it for about 5 minutes and it wipes right off leaving squeaky clean glass.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[carl_m1968]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/7731/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-06-05T17:54:26Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/98030/#p98030</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/98023/#p98023" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Ideally, yes.&nbsp; But we&#039;re dealing with a lot more variables here than just the machine itself.&nbsp; Every color of the same filament brand can behave differently, let alone different brands of the same material.&nbsp; The shape/size/print time also play a big role in regards to warping etc.</p><p>I have 2 Da Vinci 1.0&#039;s and all I can say is one prints fine with 1st layer @100C and then down to 90C for the subsequent layers.&nbsp; On the other hand, the other printer will print almost everything without warping at 100C all the way through.&nbsp; It took a lot of trials and errors to dial in these beds.</p><p>And for those with glass beds, I would highly recommend this product here: <a href="http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping">http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prev … om-warping</a></p><p>I&#039;m using it on all 4 of my printers and it works amazing.&nbsp; The prints adheres so well to the glass at temperature, but once the bed cools down to 25C or so the parts just glides off kind of like the puck sliding around on an air hockey table.&nbsp; &nbsp;Well worth the money IMO.&nbsp; No more changing out tapes, no more ABS juice, no more glue sticks, no more ugly bottom surface of the prints.</p><div class="quotebox"><cite>n2ri wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>not gonna make last post a book lol.</p><p>I just wanted to say something that needs stated someplace on this site.<br /> I have been in many service/repair tech positions in my careers for about 40 years and nearly all machines/appliances had a service manual (except Solidoodle printers) and the 1st chapter of all said manuals had a &quot;sequence of Operation&quot; section which outlined in detail each step from power on thru finished operation telling what each component did to cause the next step to occur (under normal conditions all working correct). this was the 1st place you started when trouble shooting a machine to locate where problems where.&nbsp; it also told what settings should read (temps, volts, pressures...) and if any of them where adjustable in the field or by operator/consumer also schematics and trouble shooting diagnostic chart.<br />now if these 3D printer manufacturers (assuming they are smart enough to understand their printer functions) had such a manual (it wont give away trade secrets after all lol) this site would not be as needed nor would the manufacturer be creating so many dissatisfied customers that keep factory techs scratching their heads to try helping.</p><p>if you agree with this statement copy and email a copy to your printers manufacturer.</p><p>in the words of my old boss &quot;take your &#039;blinders&#039; off and look around outside the box for solutions&quot; search horse and buggies harness info to see what &#039;blinders&#039; are.</p></blockquote></div>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[evanalmighty]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/8801/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-06-05T16:55:20Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/98023/#p98023</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/97983/#p97983" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>The thermistor on a Da Vinci bed is located on the back edge. Due to that the middle of the bed is usually about 35 or more degrees hotter than set temp. </p><p>As to the question of if it is ABS or PLA, just notice the smell while extruding.&nbsp; If it smells like melting plastic it is ABS.&nbsp; If it smell sweet like burning sugar it is PLA.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[carl_m1968]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/7731/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-06-05T04:05:03Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/97983/#p97983</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/97981/#p97981" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Has anyone checked their actual bed temperature with an IR thermometer?&nbsp; I found mine was running much hotter than the Davinci was saying.&nbsp; &nbsp;When the Davinci said the bed temp was 80 C, I was seeing 110 C with the IR thermometer.&nbsp; </p><p>I&#039;ve been having terrible warping issues similar to the original post.&nbsp; My bed temp was set at between 95 and 110, but I suspect it was&nbsp; way higher than this in reality.&nbsp; I&#039;m going to experiment a bit with lowering the bed temps to see if it reduces the warping.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[speifer]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/9441/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-06-05T03:41:04Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/97981/#p97981</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68145/#p68145" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>You are correct we are here to help each other and it is possible that you are on to something good.&nbsp; Like I said &quot;find what works for you and go with it&quot;.&nbsp; Could it be possible that you experienced less curling/warping due to the use of a glue stick?<br />Could it be possible that you are receiving inaccurate temperature readings?&nbsp; I am in no way saying your wrong I am simply asking for some verification of temperatures.<br />The OP is asking for help with curling and warping you gave him your experience as a solution but failed to mention that it may be the exception to the rule.&nbsp; <br />It&#039;s simply impossible to prevent shrinkage of ABS as it cools so the best we can do is manage the problem.&nbsp; I think that for you lowering the bed temp has helped maintain a more even temp across the entire print.&nbsp; <br />Back to the OP here is my effort to help.<br />For (dare I say) the rest of us an increase in bed temp would be helpful.&nbsp; <br />Ensuring everything in the (enclosed) printer is up to temp before starting a print would be helpful. <br />Using hairspray, Glue stick or ABS slurry would be helpful.&nbsp; Although I am not a fan of Slurry or Glue stick they do work.<br />Squishing the first layer a little more would be helpful.<br />Decreasing Extrusion width for the first layer would be helpful.<br />Ensuring your bed is flat and level in relationship to the extruder (I understand Davinci&#039;s have auto level) would be helpful.<br />A screen shot of how to change bed temps for first layer and all others if using Slic3r would be helpful.</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/SukRlF0.png" alt="http://i.imgur.com/SukRlF0.png" /></span></p><p>It is my strong belief that there is a good chance you are using PLA instead of ABS.&nbsp; Perhaps the filament is mislabeled as you mentioned the plastic is &quot;literally turning into liquid&quot; on the bottom layers.&nbsp; The only logical explanation for this is that you have PLA or your bed temp readings are way out of whack. <br />Also would like to mention that having your bed turn down to 60C would most certainly cause your print to come loose If it is indeed ABS.</p><p>I hope that helps.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[wardjr]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/2291/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T19:37:52Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68145/#p68145</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68135/#p68135" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>not gonna make last post a book lol.</p><p>I just wanted to say something that needs stated someplace on this site.<br /> I have been in many service/repair tech positions in my careers for about 40 years and nearly all machines/appliances had a service manual (except Solidoodle printers) and the 1st chapter of all said manuals had a &quot;sequence of Operation&quot; section which outlined in detail each step from power on thru finished operation telling what each component did to cause the next step to occur (under normal conditions all working correct). this was the 1st place you started when trouble shooting a machine to locate where problems where.&nbsp; it also told what settings should read (temps, volts, pressures...) and if any of them where adjustable in the field or by operator/consumer also schematics and trouble shooting diagnostic chart.<br />now if these 3D printer manufacturers (assuming they are smart enough to understand their printer functions) had such a manual (it wont give away trade secrets after all lol) this site would not be as needed nor would the manufacturer be creating so many dissatisfied customers that keep factory techs scratching their heads to try helping.</p><p>if you agree with this statement copy and email a copy to your printers manufacturer.</p><p>in the words of my old boss &quot;take your &#039;blinders&#039; off and look around outside the box for solutions&quot; search horse and buggies harness info to see what &#039;blinders&#039; are.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[n2ri]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/795/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T18:51:05Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68135/#p68135</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68131/#p68131" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>the last link Elmor posted has pics of an object like a 1/2&quot; thick nophead used to test and still he said this of one print &quot;The corners have a dimple that looks like an air bubble, but must be something to do with them trying to lift I think.&quot;<br />thats because it had many layers laid on top holding edges down so my findings are supported by that more than his.<br />the whole issue people are having is on edges of thin prints well under 1/4&quot; including the brim many talk about trying. and my photo shows an Thingaverse filament cleaning add on for SD2 and it was done with my inclosure on, no fan etc. since then I now use partial inclosure with air purifier drawing fumes out and slight cross ventilation and zero warping/lifting on even the thinnest edges after many hours of printing item. using Kaptan with glue stick. and every time I have posted 80c as my bed temp I said just that &quot;my bed&quot; just to let others know printers may differ but try lower than default too incase that is the issue as mine was. I do find it odd though that on my printer I too found 70c is where ABS starts to turn loose due to contraction when cooling. so my temps cant be far off. that print in my photo literally came loose mid print due to warping/curling edges peeling it away from bed and the print on right had to be redone (at the lower bed temp, same conditions). the bad print had partialy curled near 90 degrees back on itself, had some tiny bubbles, a bit darker discoloration, distortion all likely due to sitting just over the hot bed for hours once it came loose from bed. I had many prints with similar issues b4 this put didnt document them thinking it was just normal since I was new to 3D printing at the time. this is why I have been speaking out to others so they know its not normal and &quot;standard&quot; settings either default or what many tell them to set at, may not work on 100% of printers/materials so dont be afraid to test other ways since thats what I had to do as Solidoodle techs where zero help and I didnt know anyplace to get help since even this site was not as active then once I found it. now the topic link where Solidoodle says the limited bed heaters to 87c is not a solution in my opinion either since that also would mean even longer waits to reach temps that may not be sufficient. .</p><p>so Miss-information dont apply to proven cures. thats what we are all here for. helping each other, right?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[n2ri]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/795/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T18:01:44Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68131/#p68131</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68125/#p68125" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>elmoret wrote:</cite><blockquote><div class="quotebox"><cite>n2ri wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>so you dont think most printers may just have inaccurate temp readings for reasons I posted?</p></blockquote></div><p>Sure, they may - but nophead tested up to 120C and never saw warping.</p><p>I don&#039;t know of a single Solidoodle printer that can hit 120C, so inaccurate reporting isn&#039;t really a problem since they don&#039;t have the wattage needed to go over120C anyway.</p><p>The majority of folks report that increasing bed temps decreases warp. Some very intelligent, very very experienced people are among those folks. Take that as you will, but be very cautious making such declarative statements based only on your own experience.</p></blockquote></div><p>+1 Also would like to mention I have a bed that can go well above 120C and would be more than happy to run some tests with pictures if anyone is interested in something like that.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[wardjr]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/2291/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T15:54:53Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68125/#p68125</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68122/#p68122" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>n2ri wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>so you dont think most printers may just have inaccurate temp readings for reasons I posted?</p></blockquote></div><p>Sure, they may - but nophead tested up to 120C and never saw warping.</p><p>I don&#039;t know of a single Solidoodle printer that can hit 120C, so inaccurate reporting isn&#039;t really a problem since they don&#039;t have the wattage needed to go over120C anyway.</p><p>The majority of folks report that increasing bed temps decreases warp. Some very intelligent, very very experienced people are among those folks. Take that as you will, but be very cautious making such declarative statements based only on your own experience.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[elmoret]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/221/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T15:40:27Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68122/#p68122</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68121/#p68121" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>n2ri wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>so you dont think most printers may just have inaccurate temp readings for reasons I posted? I think many Solidoodle printers have just such an issue. so how do we know what the real temp is compared to what the printer sees?<br />all I know is if too hot ..it happens like in my image above and many more like it. but since I lowered bed temp as posted no more warp or self peeling, scorching etc. and I was using the ABS stuff Solidoodle sells at inflated prices. since I have used several brands of ABS and even PLA once warp free. so I wont lie to people and say it cant/dont happen when it does.</p><p>try lowering bed temp a few degrees at a time til its too cool and comes loose without warping then raise it back up to just above that temp. may find your sensor is also not correct but you can just set it where it works like I did.</p></blockquote></div><p>Inaccuracies in temp readings are common.&nbsp; Find a good IR thermometer and put a piece of masking tape on the bed to measure.&nbsp; It isn&#039;t going to be very accurate but I would guess it will be closer than what your seeing in R-H.&nbsp; <br />However, if what you say about scorching is true you would be talking about a&nbsp; very large inaccuracy.&nbsp; Most stock SD bed heaters are incapable of achieving temps high enough to scorch ABS.&nbsp; The process for finding the correct temp that you mention is a good one. <br />My concern with this issue is along the lines of misinformation for future users.&nbsp; The warping you show in the photo above looks to be more from uneven cooling of your part (top to bottom) and heat on the bed can amplify this effect.&nbsp; The heat from the bed is not the problem.&nbsp; Rather, the cool air surrounding the print is causing the top portion to cool and shrink while the bottom part is being kept warm by the bed heater.&nbsp; The correct solution to the problem would be a heated enclosure or at least an enclosure that retains the heat from the bed heater.<br />I am a big believer in finding what works for you and going with it.&nbsp; What I am not a fan of is the numerous users (noob&#039;s) sending me PM&#039;s because they can&#039;t figure out why their prints won&#039;t stick to their bed at 80 degrees.&nbsp; When I ask where they got that number it always leads back to one of your posts.&nbsp; Please don&#039;t take any of this the wrong way as I can&#039;t argue with results which you are obviously getting.&nbsp; I would ask that you stop posting 80 degrees as the temp until you verify it with some other means of measurement.&nbsp; Also if you are truly experiencing some sort of scorching post up some photos of it.&nbsp; <br />I ask this of you in the name of preserving the sanity of some of the more experienced users <img src="https://www.soliforum.com/img/smilies/smile.png" width="15" height="15" alt="smile" /></p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[wardjr]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/2291/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T15:36:29Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68121/#p68121</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68088/#p68088" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>so you dont think most printers may just have inaccurate temp readings for reasons I posted? I think many Solidoodle printers have just such an issue. so how do we know what the real temp is compared to what the printer sees?<br />all I know is if too hot ..it happens like in my image above and many more like it. but since I lowered bed temp as posted no more warp or self peeling, scorching etc. and I was using the ABS stuff Solidoodle sells at inflated prices. since I have used several brands of ABS and even PLA once warp free. so I wont lie to people and say it cant/dont happen when it does.</p><p>try lowering bed temp a few degrees at a time til its too cool and comes loose without warping then raise it back up to just above that temp. may find your sensor is also not correct but you can just set it where it works like I did.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[n2ri]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/795/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T08:32:03Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68088/#p68088</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68083/#p68083" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Also be sure to let nophead (one of the founding fathers of hobbyist 3D printing, if you weren&#039;t aware) know that his findings are incorrect.</p><p><a href="http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/01/golden-wonder.html">http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2010/01 … onder.html</a></p><div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>I also dropped the bed temperature to 80°C. That was too low, the corners lifted about 1mm during the build, but I think the part will still be usable.</p></blockquote></div><div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>The base is still glossy but you can see and feel some valleys between the extrusion &quot;lanes&quot;. The next test was a binary chop with the bed at 100°C. This is perfectly flat, even when off the bed for a day, but the extrusion lanes are still noticeable.</p></blockquote></div><div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>So it looks like 100°C bed temperature is the minimum to prevent warping when using Kapton. 120°C for the first layer gives a better aesthetic finish, perhaps with a small negative z-offset.</p></blockquote></div>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[elmoret]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/221/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T05:12:42Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68083/#p68083</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68082/#p68082" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>n2ri wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>so how long do you think ABS can be kept at say 120c b4 curling up? cause my SD2 needs to be told same. LOL</p></blockquote></div><p>I&#039;ve printed parts in ABS the entire size of the SD3 bed (a jig for an MRI scan). Hotter was without a doubt better, I had to get to 105C before it&#039;d stick warp free. I am not alone in this, it is pretty common:</p><p><a href="http://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/1vow6t/abs_warping_whats_the_latest_and_greatest_method/">http://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments … st_method/</a><br /><a href="http://www.soliforum.com/topic/3890/abs-warping-and-bed-temperature/">http://www.soliforum.com/topic/3890/abs … mperature/</a><br /><a href="http://www.soliforum.com/topic/3971/avoid-warping-with-large-flat-object/">http://www.soliforum.com/topic/3971/avo … at-object/</a></p><p>Folks routinely push to 110C to get warp free prints.</p><p>I would say if you are seeing liquefaction problems at 90C, either your temperature readings are incorrect (unlikely) or you&#039;re not using high quality ABS. True ABS hasn&#039;t even hit it glass transition by that point.</p><p>Also clean kapton is not the greatest build surface, that could certainly be a contributing factor.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[elmoret]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/221/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T04:54:29Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68082/#p68082</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68081/#p68081" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>plasmaninjaa wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>Hey guys. This is my first post. I&#039;m all about hacking the davinci (i.e. filament reseter, using the SD card in the back, using external g-code etc...)</p><p>One major problem I am having while printing large objects is warping at the bottom.<br />It only seems to be doing it to objects that are large and take a long time. Even though the bottom layers print fine initially, the bottom seems to slowly warp over time as the printer works on higher layers.</p><p>I know that other printers feature an option to have the heat bed turn down to a lower temperature once it gets to a certain layer height to prevent this. Is there a way to do this with the davinci?</p><p>Even using a lower temperature all the time would probably work better. Is there a way to change the bed temp to like 60 when it prints?</p><p>(I am using ABS filament.)</p></blockquote></div><p>If your using the SD card and external gcode generation, to change the bed heat is a simple M190 S90 (to set to 90C) or M190 S85 (to set to 85C). If your using a slicer like Cura that comments layers in the code, you could add that line where ever you wished and it would then start to cool down or heat up at that point. Notepad+ is capable of editing even a 50mb file with ease, so you can manually change temps as needed if your working with the gcode. You would even be able to send that code with XYZware (modded or not) since it will let you import an already slice project to send to the printer, since I&#039;m sure it doesn&#039;t scan the entire text file for an &quot;illegal&quot; command.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Weekend Avenger]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6245/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T04:46:35Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68081/#p68081</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heat bed too hot??? I'm major getting warping!!!]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/68080/#p68080" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>look at the corner on left item it warped loose 4hrs into 5hr print and had glazing and discolored as you say. lowering bed temp from 90c to 80c fixed it. as item on right proves</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[n2ri]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/795/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-10-09T04:39:23Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/68080/#p68080</id>
		</entry>
</feed>
