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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — [ABS] - MG94 + Regrind ABS]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/7844/" />
	<updated>2014-09-29T04:49:57Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/7844/abs-mg94-regrind-abs/</id>
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			<title type="html"><![CDATA[[ABS] - MG94 + Regrind ABS]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/67280/#p67280" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>*Regrind is granulate of old filament bits or failed prints. The granulate is usually all MG94, but can sometimes get GP35 bits in too*<br />**Virgin material is new pellets**</p><p>Extruder type: Standard Filastruder with 1.75mm melt filter, full barrrel insulation, hopper shaker, and vertical setup with winder.</p><p>Printer type: SD2, E3D v6, Bulldog XL, RUMBA + DRV8825, LCD, Glass bed, and Lawsy&#039;s Carraiges.</p><p>Extrusion temperature: 186°C<br />Extrusion rate without colorant: 9-12 inches per minute.<br />Extrusion rate with colorant: 2-10<br />Average diameter of filament: 1.72mm<br />Tolerances: + or - 0.03mm<br />Comments: One hurdle a user face when attempting to recycle ABS, is granulation (breaking apart of failed prints) and pelitizng (chopping up of filament). I use an industrial granulator to grind up my prints, and the last few posts on this thread have more info on the granulator <a href="http://www.soliforum.com/post/67277/#p67277">http://www.soliforum.com/post/67277/#p67277</a>. As for pelitizing filament, I use this <a href="http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6997/high-speed-filament-pelletizer/">http://www.soliforum.com/topic/6997/hig … elletizer/</a>. When mixing granulate, the ratio is 80% virign material to 20% regrind. When mixing pelitzed filament, you can use 100% pelitized filament. I add black colorant pellets to hide any imperfections in color caused by regrind. Most of the standard tips and tricks for MG94 apply for extruding a virgin + regrind mix. I got my MG94 from <a href="http://3dsupplysource.com/">http://3dsupplysource.com/</a>.</p><p>Comparison to commercial ABS filament: N/A ( I have never bought a roll of recycled ABS filament thanks to the Filastruder)</p><p>Pictures:<br /><span class="postimg"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/lML0pat.jpg" alt="http://i.imgur.com/lML0pat.jpg" /></span><br />MG94 + regrind in a ziplock.<br /><span class="postimg"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/AGYcgbt.jpg?1" alt="http://i.imgur.com/AGYcgbt.jpg?1" /></span><br />MG94 + regrind close up.<br /><span class="postimg"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/IMCQ4FB.jpg" alt="http://i.imgur.com/IMCQ4FB.jpg" /></span><br />Overkill Y-idlers.<br /><span class="postimg"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/Ut78UOt.jpg" alt="http://i.imgur.com/Ut78UOt.jpg" /></span><br />Wardjr&#039;s all in one bull dog xl mount.<br /><span class="postimg"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/gO5JIlI.jpg" alt="http://i.imgur.com/gO5JIlI.jpg" /></span><br />Recycled filament on a printed spool.</p><p>This weekend (2/8/15) I made some 1.75mm MG94 and 1.75mm recycled (80% MG94 20% regrind) filament. Before extrusion I pre-dried both the regrind and MG94 for about 18 hours in this dehydrator Link: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Presto-06300-Dehydro-Electric-Dehydrator/dp/B008H2OELY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417366096&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=dehydrator">http://www.amazon.com/Presto-06300-Dehy … dehydrator</a> . </p><p>Here is a good write up about pre-drying I did a while back:</p><p><strong>Pre-Drying</strong><br />Many different types of plastics need to be pre-dried in order to get good quality filament and prints. The plastics that encounter frequently that need pre-drying are PLA, Nylon, TPU, and PC (polycarbonate). There are several more plastics that need to be pre-dried, but for simplicity I only listed a few. I used a food dehydrator I bought off of Amazon to dry all of my pellets. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Presto-06300-Dehydro-Electric-Dehydrator/dp/B008H2OELY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417366096&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=dehydrator">http://www.amazon.com/Presto-06300-Dehy … dehydrator</a> . The dehydrator comes with mesh plates, so you need to find a way to stop the pellets from falling through. I use this: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/National-Presto-Dehydro-Electric-Dehydrator/dp/B008KZV6NC/ref=pd_sim_k_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1SSDATJ8GGRZNA913RBA.">http://www.amazon.com/National-Presto-D … ZNA913RBA.</a> I usually let the pellets dry for about 10-17 hours. After drying I seal the pellets in a zip lock bag with a silica gel packet inside, and add a label so I know what plastic it is.</p><p>The end result of the drying was filament with an average diameter of 1.75 with + or - 0.01mm tolerances.</p><p>Picture of the dehydrator:<br /><span class="postimg"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/sjdJl2c.jpg" alt="http://i.imgur.com/sjdJl2c.jpg" /></span><br />Picture of the finished filament: <br /><span class="postimg"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/sun2LDs.jpg" alt="http://i.imgur.com/sun2LDs.jpg" /></span></p><br /><br /><p>Thanks for reading! Questions? Comment? Feel free to PM me, or post a reply.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Ggalisky]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/5970/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-09-29T04:49:57Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/67280/#p67280</id>
		</entry>
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