<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Pink Panther Women - .3mm & .1mm]]> 2012-12-10T19:46:34Z PunBB https://www.soliforum.com/topic/754/pink-panther-women-3mm-1mm/ <![CDATA[Re: Pink Panther Women - .3mm & .1mm]]> The only reason I mentioned software is because some people found that slic3r was causing it. Why is still a question.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/125/ 2012-12-10T19:46:34Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/6809/#p6809 <![CDATA[Re: Pink Panther Women - .3mm & .1mm]]> I've used both of the z backlashes fixes, and they are improving things, but I am wondering if I can get it to be even less noticeable. Since they are so evenly spaced, i figured it is a mechanical limitation more then a software one.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/366/ 2012-12-10T17:40:14Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/6799/#p6799 <![CDATA[Re: Pink Panther Women - .3mm & .1mm]]> The prints seems pretty good. But as you mentioned, the banding is an issue here. There is backlash in the Z-axis and you need to prevent that.
I've used Kendalls nut (google it) but try this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36177

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/69/ 2012-12-10T16:49:18Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/6790/#p6790 <![CDATA[Re: Pink Panther Women - .3mm & .1mm]]> That's the same banding I've gotten. I've tried backlash fixers (not much luck), different software (no difference), and now I've got a new proper leadscrew on the way. I've found that the backlash fixer MIGHT help slightly, but in my case, it requires some fine tuning otherwise it worsens the banding.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/125/ 2012-12-10T16:49:18Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/6791/#p6791 <![CDATA[Pink Panther Women - .3mm & .1mm]]> Software: Repetier-Host-Mac .51 / slic3r .97
Profile: Tweaked official solidoodle .1mm
Model: Pink Panther Women
Filament: Solidoodle natural

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&amp;item=600&amp;download=0
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&amp;item=602&amp;download=0

.75 scale .1mm - 9hr 15min - 5 Shells, 0% infill
.75 scale .3mm - 2hr 40min - 4 shells, 0% infill (not enough shells!)
Those 2 were ~4" in height.

.25 scale .1mm - 2+ hrs, lost platform adhesion during print
.45 scale .3mm - Under 2 hours

Setup:
Glass bed + hairspray
No cooling fan

I was tired of printing geometric objects and yodas for testing, so I found this great test print on thinigiverse. This print can be a bit tricky around the right armpit, neck and upper chest. Above the chest the layers get real thin even with 5 shells.  6 shells would probably be best. I used an 8mm brim as well, probably overkill?  I love how easy brims are to remove! When I first got my printer I was using rafts and they are such a pain to remove/sand down.

Came home to this one. Print down!
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&amp;item=598&amp;download=0

This failure didn't break my spirit.  I moved my model to the front right of the bed since they seem to be loosing adhesion in the center (guess I have more bed leveling to do!). I then reprinted this over night at the .75 scale, my longest print yet!

I woke up to this:
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&amp;item=601&amp;download=0

Looks good, but 9hours is crazy! There was some alignment or slic3r issues on her right thigh at the begining, but it recouped on its own.

How does a .3mm look:
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&amp;item=599&amp;download=0

Not enough shells, and I had slic3r set to not add perimeters when needed. I want to reprint the .3mm with another shell and then test this print out in the acetone vapor smoothing station.

Any ideas to minimize the visible banding?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/366/ 2012-12-10T14:47:02Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/6784/#p6784