. If you have time to travel, why not visit Viet Nam. And I always welcome you.But, I am not 100% understanding your gear ratio. When I looked at the video, it looks like you have 1:644 motor...Then 1:60 gearbox. This is a very big total gear ratio. but if it is working now....then it is ok. Maybe I do not understand.
If it is maybe many times slower than you want , that is because the gear ratio is too big now 
. When you have two gearboxes connecting, the 'gear ratio' is multiplied. 1:644*1:60 = 1:38640. I am sorry it is not very easy to manage.
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ … /gearmotor
By the way, this doesn't make sense to me:
.I use your advice with gear motor -> gear box -> plastic..and it works..
By "plastic", Tomek meant the drill bit driving the plastic. Can you post a photo of your current setup?
]]>puskinu wrote:Thank again, but I'm not really understand you much. You mean use chain drive with or without gear box, or I just need a higher ratio gear box as u told. I have tried bycyle chain, swiper motor but it 's still the same.
here are my barrel and drill. Do you have any solutions to increase torque by shorten or lenghten the drill or barrel too?Right now you have Motor ---> Gearbox --> Plastic
Maybe you can do Motor ---> bicycle gear ratio ---> gearbox --> plastic.Changing drill barrel length will not likely help much. The barrel friction is not big.
but if your drill has less pitch (pushes less plastic for each circle turn) then it could *maybe* work better.
Remember gear ratio multiplies. So if you have 60:1 now and want 1200:1, you need only 20:1 for a new gear change.
Thank Tomek very much. I'll try with gear motor -> gear box -> plastic ...It takes me two month to solve this, then I know this forum, hope everything will be ok...I'll tell you the result.
But Is there any standard dimension between the nozzle and the drill ?
You need an additional stage of gear reduction, either though another gearbox or chain+sprocket. If the gearbox is rated for 50Nm of torque on the output, then you can put the new parts between the motor and gearbox if you like. Otherwise, it needs to go between gearbox and auger.
]]>Thank again, but I'm not really understand you much. You mean use chain drive with or without gear box, or I just need a higher ratio gear box as u told. I have tried bycyle chain, swiper motor but it 's still the same.
here are my barrel and drill. Do you have any solutions to increase torque by shorten or lenghten the drill or barrel too?
Right now you have Motor ---> Gearbox --> Plastic
Maybe you can do Motor ---> bicycle gear ratio ---> gearbox --> plastic.
Changing drill barrel length will not likely help much. The barrel friction is not big.
but if your drill has less pitch (pushes less plastic for each circle turn) then it could *maybe* work better.
Remember gear ratio multiplies. So if you have 60:1 now and want 1200:1, you need only 20:1 for a new gear change.
]]>Here is my link about my extruder:
youtube.com/watch?v=lxJKvmO_XDk&feature=youtu.be
You say the motor has stopped, but also say that it still runs. This doesn't make any sense. I am assuming it is a translation problem. It sounds like you do not have enough torque, as 60:1 is not a very high gear ratio. I use 1269:1 with a 4500RPM motor.
Also, 350w is way more power than is needed. A 350w 12vdc gear motor is worth more than a Filastruder. Out of curiosity, why not just sell the gear motor and buy a Filastruder? Are you certain it is a 350w motor?
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