SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — SD3 Power supply Upgrade

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-12T18:51:37Z

Yep, Zero to holy shit that's hot in about 10 seconds!

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-12T17:16:38Z

Got it, thanks. I'll be jumping that third output over to my heat bed power tonight. I will time how long it takes to heat to temp before and after just for comparison.

500W AC heated bed must be nice! At that point, I guess you are basically never limited by bed capabilities.

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-12T16:31:13Z

Depends on which printer...for your set up I would connect one to the board and two to the HB-PWR. The bed heater is where the real load is. So if you are referring to the PSU earlier in this link that will give you 120 watts to the board and extruder cartridge is only 40 watts so that leaves 80 watts of power to run everything else (plenty of power). The bed heater then has 240 watts available so it should heat faster and be more stable. I am not running that PSU for my Rumba as I have a 500 watt AC heated bed so no real load at HB-PWR other than a relay. HB-PWR is just jumped over from Mian-PWR on mine and that is run off a Stock SD PSU.
I run the above pictured PSU on an SD3 that has an upgraded 12v bed heater and E3D running a Sang board (no separate HB-PWR circuit) so that's why I have all three banks tied together. (needed the wattage)
Does that clear things up?

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-12T15:43:21Z

Hey wardjr, I'm pretty sure we have the same power supply. With my RUMBA, I am using two outputs on the PSU, one to the main board input and one to the heat bead input. Any idea if I should jump the third output to either or both of the ones I am using? I assume there would be no use to jump between the main and heat bed terminals on the PSU. I guess it is determined by how much total wattage is used on each input, but I'm really not sure.

Thanks!

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-12T00:49:15Z

wardjr wrote:

Any time you have multiple 12v banks as with most PSU's, there is a very good chance the advertised output (wattage) is a combination of all the banks. But I can't say this is true for all PSU's so it is best to check documentation or (like my case) be willing to sacrifice a new PSU to see how it handles that configuration. For the most part there should be no reason this should cause any form of failure or problems for most PSU's.

Right, cheers mate

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-11T15:17:37Z

Any time you have multiple 12v banks as with most PSU's, there is a very good chance the advertised output (wattage) is a combination of all the banks. But I can't say this is true for all PSU's so it is best to check documentation or (like my case) be willing to sacrifice a new PSU to see how it handles that configuration. For the most part there should be no reason this should cause any form of failure or problems for most PSU's.

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-11T11:12:52Z

Hey Wardjr,
Does the daisy chaining apply to all PSU's like that one?

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-11T03:54:56Z

clementscp wrote:

WardJR, that helped a ton man! Thanks, got it all set up, printing my z stop and anti backlash nut. In my case the bare wire was positive.

I figured as much but wasn't positive so it's always best to check.

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-11T02:10:56Z

WardJR, that helped a ton man! Thanks, got it all set up, printing my z stop and anti backlash nut. In my case the bare wire was positive.

Re: SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-10T20:38:05Z

With a barrel style connector you can just check for continuity. The outer of the barrel is your negative and the inner is the positive. On that PSU you will want to daisy chain the positives together and the negatives together otherwise you will only get 120 watts of power. When your done it should look something like this.

Hope that helps

SD3 Power supply Upgrade

2014-06-10T20:13:42Z

Hey, long time troll, first time poster....

In preparation of getting my e3d v6 hotend I am upgrading the power supply on my SD3. Issue I am facing is that I have one of the ring/tip power supply connectors. When I peeled back the insulation on the cord I am presented with a bare wire and a blue wire.

Has anyone with the ring/tip power supply on the SD3 upgraded their power supply, and if so which wire is positive, the bare wire or the blue wire?

Luckily I cut the cord in the middle so if need be I can splice it and throw a multimeter on it, but would prefer not to have to go down that path......