This is bad. unhook that thing from your printer - NOW!

seriously, go order one of these:

http://www.printitindustries.com/collec … wer-supply

and don't forget the power cord to go with it (select from the drop down menu on that page).

then wire things up like in the picture i posted above.

in regards to things "freezing up" - what version of RH are you running? on what operating system (computer)?
Do you have the screensaver and "sleep" modes turned off? (they need to be)
I can almost guarantee you it is NOT a firmware problem...

Here are some pictures of the new power supply...

As you may have guessed, the new power supply will not allow me to wire the heatbed to it directly. I will need to somehow wire the heatbed to the motherboard. You had mentioned a jumper on the board to set the heatbed. Where is this jumper located? What terminals should I wire the heatbed to?

Thank you so much for your help

This isnt the best picture, but it is what I have at the moment. The yellow wires are my ground wires (black) but it is what I had available at the time. The wiring has since been updated and is much neater now. =P
The power feed for the heated bed is jumpered from 2 terminals on the PSU to make sure it is getting enough juice.

I (and many others) use a SuperNight LED type power supply rated at 12v, 30Amp. It has a trim pot to adjust the output voltage if needed (pointed out in the photo)

Hopefully this helps you out a bit with where the power & heated bed wires should be connected

Board on but no heaters or steppers moving: 12.3V
Extruder heater on full: 11.3V
Extruder heater on and steppers moving: 10.5V

At this point, the board froze. So I got a 500W power supply and tried the same thing.

Board on but no heaters or steppers moving: 12.1V
Extruder heater on full: 11.9V
Extruder heater on and steppers moving: 11.8V

At this point, the board froze again. I don't imagine 11.8V being too low for the board. The 500W PSU has 40A on the 12V line, so that should be plenty, right?

When I tell it to print, the motors move as they should following the coordinates. However, the heatbed and filament motors seem to be having an issue.

The filament motor is moving the wrong way (probably a firmware problem, I'll try troubleshooting this on my own). Does it have to do with the order of the stepper motor wiring? I'll try both and see what happens

The heatbed issue is a little more confusing. When I turn it on in manual control and go the the "temperature curve" and look under heatbed output, it appears to be "working". However, the heatbed is cold to the touch and the temperature reading for the heatbed in the manual control tab seem to be indicating that the heatbed is at room temperature. I have the heatbed power wires going to the HB-pwr pins (located right next to the main power). Both wires are red; I guess the wire polarity doesn't matter for the heatbed?

Thank you once again. I'm extremely grateful for your help as we near completion on this project

Thank you so much for your help!

Here are some photos of the wiring for the heatbed...

The yellow and black wires are main power. The red wires are for the heatbed (they are connected to HB-PWR). Does the polarity of the wires matter since they are both labeled red?

All of the wires entering the heatbed (thermistor wires are black while the red are input power).

Here are all of the thermistor pins. The black set of wires is for the heat bed. The red and black wire are for the extruder.

I had similar issues with one of the updates and reverted back to v1.0.6 - no more problems.

Also, check the log output when this happens...

you can set Repetier Host to output and save the log

Under "Config", "Preferences" - in the window that opens, there is a checkbox for "Log Session" - check it, and then make note of where the work directory is (above the check box - you can also specify a location here if you dont want to use the default)

The next time it freezes up on you, you can shut it down, then go check the log before you restart it. (logs get over-written each time you start the program). You can copy & paste it into word-pad and save it as a .txt file somewhere else if you like.

1) Endstops are now working (firmware and wiring has been configured)
2) Motors are going in the correct directions (motor wiring has been corrected)
3) Heatbed and extruder are working correctly

Thank you for helping me fix the problems mentioned above. I have been totally stuck on it and I really appreciate your help.

Here is another problem which has just become apparent....

Test print results:
The test print was very close to being a success. When the heatbed and extruder had reached the set temperature, the Z motor was getting ready to print. About .5s after Z had started moving, the Repetier Host lost control over the printer and the printer just froze. The motors (X, Y, and Z) continued to heat up. The only way to fix the problem was to cut power to the printer from the power supply. Not even the emergency shut off in Repetier Host did anything!

Manual Control Results:
After the test print, I decided to fiddle around in manual control. I noticed that after 2 - 3 commands for a motor to move, the board would freeze and the motors (especially X and Y) would start to heat up. The only way to get it to stop was to cut power from the power supply. Not even the emergency stop from Repetier Host worked!

Thank you for reading and for your help; it is greatly appreciated.

....  Take a look at your slicer profile and see if it's temps are set to something different than the temps you have them set to on the sliders in RH.  There is also a start code section in your profile that often included yet another temp.  In short there are 3 locations where the same 2 temps are set and they all need to be set the same.  Your printer is most likely just waiting for a temp to be reached.  If it's the bed temp it's possible the bed heater simply can't reach a higher temp.

I have actually found it easier to remove any temp references from both the slicing profiles and start codes - that way I have full control over the temp settings using the sliders and there is no confusion in the programing. Yes, it means I have to manually turn on the heaters and wait for things to get up to temp before starting a print, but it works for me.

But yeah - check and confirm that ALL temp settings are the same and compatible with your setup (both bed and hotend).

Kill print simply shits off heaters

I would like to preserve this lol