SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Bulging corners on square tower

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-20T01:29:46Z

I checked all the dimensions in netfabb against what was printed out. The only one that was off was just the neck for some reason it was 1.0mm longer. Maybe incorrect information from slic3r? I'm using version 1.0. At the moment I'm going to try the latest Git version. More adventures await.

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T15:28:23Z

accusedmonk wrote:

The Mk5 redo that you posted ward seems to be the wrong one. The smaller diameter section of the neck is too long. It fits in perfect upside down, but it just doesn't have the clearance. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111213/#files Lawsy has one that works on his upload there, 2n2r5's modification bevels the top of it so it all fits together nicely.
I got it all printed up, I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to tackle the E3D changeover this weekend or not. Main reason I haven't put it on yet is that I haven't acquired some new clips so I don't need to hack the old wiring any.
Thanks for all the help!

You unfurtunately have calibration issues. I printed 40+ of those for Tim and they fit perfect. It doesn't matter what one you use so long as it is snug. The longer E3d will make you bulging corners look perfect if it wobbles.

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T07:50:51Z

The Mk5 redo that you posted ward seems to be the wrong one. The smaller diameter section of the neck is too long. It fits in perfect upside down, but it just doesn't have the clearance. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111213/#files Lawsy has one that works on his upload there, 2n2r5's modification bevels the top of it so it all fits together nicely.

I got it all printed up, I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to tackle the E3D changeover this weekend or not. Main reason I haven't put it on yet is that I haven't acquired some new clips so I don't need to hack the old wiring any.

Thanks for all the help!

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T05:21:06Z

These things are fun to experiment with just to see the different results. I have a fairly stock SD3 (only upgrade is E3d) also that I may try this print with. Just to compare the stock set up against the BulldogXL with linear bearings and fish line.

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T03:54:57Z

I planned on changing it all, I'll go ahead and print out the new extruder setup, hopefully I can get the E3D put on this weekend. Tightening the nuts only improved it a small small fraction, basically it didn't. I'm almost positive its just where its making the layer changes. Its a pattern to it, and the way mine is sliced it changes the layers on a different corner each time. Retract on layer helped quite a bit.

Anywho, I'll work on the extruder since I want to get that up and running anyway! If you have any other ideas I'm all ears! I've spent the past week trying to figure out what would make it repeatable like it is. Thanks for the help too!

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T03:36:03Z

accusedmonk wrote:

Hmm, the hot end seems to have a tad bit of play in it. Would I just tighten the nuts under the peek? I still have the stock acrylic extruder. It looks like those two nuts are all the hold the hot end in the extruder
I went ahead and tightened them just a bit. The play is gone, so I'm going to give it another go real quick.

Throw that acrylic in the trash and switch to the MK-5. The most common mistake when switching is making sure the drive gear, bearing and opening in the top of the E3D are aligned properly.

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T03:32:54Z

Print out this version of the MK-5 it has been modified to fit the groove of the E3D better.
you'll still need the upper filament guide and tension arm from Lawsy.
It is quick easy and well worth the effort.

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T03:29:32Z

Hmm, the hot end seems to have a tad bit of play in it. Would I just tighten the nuts under the peek? I still have the stock acrylic extruder. It looks like those two nuts are all the hold the hot end in the extruder

I went ahead and tightened them just a bit. The play is gone, so I'm going to give it another go real quick.

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T03:22:46Z

4 perimeters, .3 infill, .3 height. I've tried different amount of perimeters and infill to the same outcome. I know, I know ha. I'm dying to get the E3D on it, but I'm debating if I want to just swap with Lawsy's carriages or finish with my own design for a dual head setup.

I just did print these right after the tower prints, same settings.

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T03:21:45Z

So at .3 height
single perimeter
2 bottom layers
2 top layers
80 mm/s from the bottom to the black line
from the black line to the top 80 mm/s with feedrate at 300
This is what I came up with but you'll want to notice my signature.
Either way you have something wrong.... maybe your hot end is loose and wobbling.

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T03:08:25Z

accusedmonk wrote:

I'm using a fan since its so small for layer times. Jerk seemed to help the most, from 5 to 15. I'm very open to suggestions right now. I'm about to just throw the E3D on there for that little extra bit of precision.

You have an E3d and it isn't installed? I have figured out your problem

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T02:55:31Z

How are you printing this?
# perimeters?
Infill?
Solid?
.3 height?

Re: Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T02:52:53Z

give me a minute I'll give it a go.

Bulging corners on square tower

2014-04-19T02:14:49Z

I've been trying to improve with this print since I made the Y bearing and GT2 upgrade, extruder pot adjustment, and M3 Z rod upgrade. So far I have adjusted all of these settings and this is the best I've gotten it so far:

-acceleration values
-nozzle temperature
-jerk values
-turned on both retract on layer and wipe while retracting
-retraction length and speed

From what I started with its quite improved but the extruder seems to be oozing quite a lot. I'm hesitant to turn it down any more because adhesion seems to suffer greatly. I've printed most all of my parts at 220, but dropped to to 215 to try and counter the oozing.

Would a couple of you guys mind printing this out so I can see the difference, compare settings?

This is what I started with :

It looks like banding, but I assure you there is none.

This is what I've dialed it into so far:

I'm using a fan since its so small for layer times. Jerk seemed to help the most, from 5 to 15. I'm very open to suggestions right now. I'm about to just throw the E3D on there for that little extra bit of precision.