SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — e3d on solidoodle clogs

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-02T12:35:25Z

I have done the heat tightening..or I think I did each time. But since I have taken the E3D apart because of clogs 6 times this week, I can't be postive I did it every time.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-02T00:53:53Z

Thaks I'll try this once my E3D is back up again. Seems after cleaning several clogs and thus handling it enough to unscrew it etc... the wires on the temp sensor got broke from even inside the kapton tape. Now I have to await parts again.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-02T00:23:24Z

To be clear, you shouldn't hold the whole hot end during torquing, for possibility of bending the heat break. It is best to use a wrench on the nozzle and pliers/wrench on the heat block, as shown in the instructions.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-02T00:05:11Z

elmoret wrote:

LdyMox wrote:
I had adjusted my temps but but not that fa up. For example my PLA used to work well for me at 165-170 appox on the old stock hot end.
I haven't gotten around to ABS, but it is like that for ABS also?What temps do you use for ABS?
E3D measures heater temperature, Solidoodle measures nozzle temperature. You have to add around 30-40C going from a Solidoodle hot end to a E3D.
You heated to 290C and torqued the nozzle, right?

elmoret is dead on as always. If you haven't yet, do the heat tightening with a good pair of thick leather gloves. I use two other gloves inside my leather ones and never felt a thing while holding a 290c hot end.

I currently print ABS at 240c.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-01T23:14:51Z

LdyMox wrote:

I had adjusted my temps but but not that fa up. For example my PLA used to work well for me at 165-170 appox on the old stock hot end.
I haven't gotten around to ABS, but it is like that for ABS also?What temps do you use for ABS?

E3D measures heater temperature, Solidoodle measures nozzle temperature. You have to add around 30-40C going from a Solidoodle hot end to a E3D.

You heated to 290C and torqued the nozzle, right?

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-01T22:38:01Z

I had adjusted my temps but but not that fa up. For example my PLA used to work well for me at 165-170 appox on the old stock hot end.

I haven't gotten around to ABS, but it is like that for ABS also?What temps do you use for ABS?

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-01T22:16:16Z

I stopped having clogs at about 210-217.
Definitely pump up the temp. just remember than you don't want to burn the extruded filament. If you have any white, light green...pretty much any pale or translucent colors, you can dial in the new temps as charred plastic is easy to spot in the lighter colors. Just be sure to purge any and all filament first since there may be some goobers left inside and give you a false indication of the "burn limit".

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-01T20:42:07Z

I have been printing in PLA. I was originally printing at about 190 to 195 but went upto 200 in hopes it would help the clogs.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-01T20:32:08Z

What temps are you running? I have just as much experience in ABS as PLA and notice PLA caused every single one of my clogs.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-06-01T20:20:33Z

I am also having excessive E3D clogs. On same filiment I used with the stock hot with little problem. Granted the stock hot end clogged every 6 weeks or so but the E3D seems to clog daily and twice today. I'm pretty sure my temps and general setup is theoritaclly fine anyways

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-04-24T03:16:39Z

If you can eliminate the play with some Kapton tape it will improve your prints.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-04-23T23:42:35Z

Hmmm, easy enough to test. It should be very close as I turned down the top of the e3d to fit in the aluminum block that the solidoodle hot end fit into. There is a tiny bit of play. I will run a snug fitting rod through the drive gear/ bearing straight into the hot end and measure and shim as needed. Excellent idea.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-04-23T23:08:13Z

So what nozzle do you have in now? .4 set to .48 for .6 set to .72. None of that is your problem but needs to be set correctly. I would guess that the drive gear, bearing and the E3D aren't lined up so the filament is being pushed crooked.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-04-23T23:01:28Z

I think I found the problem but not quite sure how to fix it. If I print a 50mm x 50mm square, the first layer walls print perfectly. When the printer prints diagonally to fill in the walls, it begins to act starved and prints broken lines. I kept my fingers on the filament while it printed and could feel the extruder skipping during the diagonal prints. I double checked my feed calibration and it is good. The skipping makes me think it is feeding to fast but why just with the diagonal lines. I do not see anything in the firmware where there is different stepper settings for different print types. Have I missed a setup step in using the e3d on the solidoodle? I have done and rechecked every setting I could find on the forum. I also surmise that overfeeding could cause melted filament to backup and cause the cold clogs but I could not cause an issue by manually extruding large lengths at high speeds.

As a footnote, I also found the perfect nozzle cleaning wire. There are wire needles used by bead makers. The are called open eye needles. the wire has a rough texture and the small fits well in the .4 nozzle. The texture does a good job of scrubbing the sides of the whole clean. I sort of screwed it in until it came out the other end of the nozzle then pulled it back and forth. I checked the size of the extruded thread afterwards and it was the same size as before so the "scrubbing" did not make the whole itself larger.

Re: e3d on solidoodle clogs

2014-04-19T05:48:27Z

I will change the firmware at bump up the heat.
The .368 was from the .4 nozzle. Sorry, I was not clear there.