It is not normal to experience delamination with ABS. I have printed 100% infill parts before without delamination. Generally delamination means the printer's nozzle temperature is too low, or you are underextruding while printing. It is also possible to experience delamination if the polymer is not dry, as you experienced with Bridge. It is a good idea to store filament in a sealed bag with dry dessicant.

I made a few changes to the struder and now it's working excellent. The filawinder is very touchy as far as the hall sensor is, I'm going to replace it and try it, but it has been winding 1lb of filament for the last many hours... it takes 12 hours roughly to make 1 lb of PLA. Is this normal?

I was messing with eagle, and it is very easy to learn. Just for ease of etching at home I modified the sensor board of the winder to be single sided, printed and looks great. Haven't etched it yet though.

I was able to print the filawinder gears using taulman bridge nylon and finally no delamination! Apparently the first roll the vendor sent me had been water logged.

Question with abs.... I can only print with infill of 40% or higher otherwise they delaminate badly. Is this normal? Do you need to do larger infill than pla?
Thanks for the replies!

agilliam: As far as your problem, if your using ABS, make sure you clean the melt filter out as new setups tend to get quite a bit of filings at the melt filter (the end of the pipe has a slight decrease in diameter due to threading and cutting. After a few uses, that will stop and you shouldn't get any metal.

Secondly, the hopper put on in the reverse manner will cause pellets to build up in the front where its pushing into the barrel for the filastruder causing it to overflow. Flipping it around will cause them to push back up inside the bottle, vs over flowing.

When you switch to PLA, its a whole new learning curve. You will need to drill out the nozzle or make your own slightly bigger, or youll need to run colder.

Lastly, in reference to the PCB and files, PC boards are created quite a bit different then conventional types back when diy ham radio. Play around with Eagle Cad and it will make more sense. They do it this way now because it requires less time for etching, and also gives a bigger surface for + and - and helps tremendously with diagnosing and testing.

If you need any further help, contact me and I will be more than happy to share with you some helpful hints!

I've never tried mounting the hopper the other direction, but I can see how pellets might get pushed out if it was mounted backwards. I thought the image on the first page of the instructions showed which way to mount the hopper, but I'll add a note in the next revision of the instructions.

As for the hopper, FWIW,  mine overflows a little as well. I just wrapped some electrical tape around the hole to prevent the pellets from falling out. I didn't lose many, maybe 30 in a few hours of runtime. But it was irritating so I prevented it. Looking at the posted picture, I think my hopper is on backwards. I'll try flipping it around to see if that helps. Thinking about it, I can see how that would push pellets out.

As for the flow issue. If you have the filter installed try removing it. Maybe something plugged it up a bit. What ABS are you trying to extrude? MG94, the type that came with it, extrudes great at 180. GP35 does as well. For diameter, hotter will make it thinner, further from the ground will as well. I think you have a winder, but you can make the drop loop larger or smaller. I'm on a 3mm machine, but I can easily get 2.5mm +/- 0.1mm dropping to the ground. I could make it thicker, but 2.5mm works fine.

While extruding, with the thermocouple installed in the hole on the side of the nozzle, autotune the controller. It helps more than I expected. And having tried higher temps for Nylon, my filastruder can't do much more than 210C. I have no idea how you made it to 260.

Maybe I should post your emails about the death in my family and being out of town due to that, and you saying that my 400$ business wasn't worth your time because of a technicality and time difference.

Looks like I need to do some investigating.

260C is unreasonable, in stock form it can't get that hot. Where did you install the thermocouple?

Rather than just setting things 80 degrees hotter than the instructions say, why not stop and ask for help? It seems strange to write off something so important as a typo in the instructions when this has been around for a few years with over 2,000 users.

As for the hopper, that's very strange as well. Here's a shot of a hopper that has been running for 4 days straight, the pellets sit about an inch from the top of the hopper. Odd that you have to use an allen key to poke at the hopper, I've never had to do that with around 3500 hours of runtime.

Some photos of your setup would be helpful.

As far as temp, I started at 160 and it wouldn't extrude but an inch in 20 minutes. And the motor was so dead slow and bogging down like a loud roar and nothing was coming out. I did the auto tune on the pid controller and everything checked temp with another source and it reads right. But at 160 it would take 4 days to extrude 1 spool and probably burn the motor up.

I'll have to get a video and upload it so you can see. Something just isn't right.

CC: This should always be set as in the manual.

CV: This is proportional to motor speed, as high as possible unless you're looking to limit speed for a noise related reason (or if you're extruding some exotic polymer that doesn't flow well).

I don't know what you mean by overflowing, maybe a photo would be helpful. I run a full 2-liter bottle with no spilling or poking with an Allen key, so I'm a bit confused what you mean.

I ended up taking my multimeter and reading everything and found that 1 diode was bad. I'm assuming in my first post when I mentioned the 2 cases of the hexfet/transistors were touching and they were hot that it burned I title only had 4ohm resistance and should have been in the mega ohm. I replaced it with a in4001 diode. I also noticed that the hall effect sensor looked a little off alignment. I went to take readings and found 1 leg completely broken off. Those have very thin weak legs anyways. So I dropped some solder on all 3 legs and fired it up and presto, it's now functioning correctly.

Ian thank you and Tim both for responding. As I stated the last time I etched or designed my own pc board was for ham radio and I didn't use software lol. We used either a pen, traces you peel and stick, or we just used pre padded perfect boards. Anyways I finally figured it out and I am playing with eagle a lot more from now on.

As I stated it's up and working and seems to work very well. It's been running with nothing spooling for 10 minutes and the servo is moving as it should.

I have to say, Ian you did a great job on the filawinder. The only thing that I would consider doing. Just my opinion. Include the printed parts or come up with a nice laser cut housing for the switches. The rest is cool.

Tim, your filastruder is awesome as well. The only suggestion I could say is maybe insulate the Gear box area to dampen the sounds. Not something you want roaring in the next room, but don't want to put in shop or garage due to fire risk..

I'm planning on coming up with an arduino add on with some features that hopefully you maybeable to include or could be an optional package for this setup.

I guess I spoke too soon. I looked down and noticed the spool is winding but it's not moving the servo again. It appears this thing is very sensative and tempermental.. I don't know what to do. This thing works with all the other functions. Such as controlling servo with knob. But the dang hall effect sensor isn't working it worked when I bench tested it but now nothing