I'm also looking. In slic3r there doesn't seem to be an option to G-code the fan for it will turn on when there is overhangs.

Fan control is in Slic3r.  I just don't know if there is anything that needs to be changed in the stock firmware or not.  I have always run an updated version from Adrian's github so it has always worked. 

wardjr wrote:

Photog wrote:

that elusive extruder fan problem again. Wish I had one! My board has no connector and I can't risk damaging my board by soldering on a connector I have no idea how to do that sort of thing.

I would be willing to unscrew my board off of the case and ship it to someone and pay someone to wire on a fan connector to the board for me, lol. Seriously any takers. $50 for the job and I'll pay for shipping to and from.

Could I just add on a non-gcode controlled fan? Like one that is always on. Or will that hurt print quality having it always running. I thought the purpose of an enclosure was partly to get rid of drafts.

If your really serious about paying that much wouldn't it just be easier to buy a better board such as the Rumba or Azteeg?

not sure.. is that harder or easier than adding the fan connector to the motherboard I have?

It says REV "E" on my motherboard. There is a spot that says "FAN" but no connectors that I can plug into

If you don't know how to solder it's easier but you need to be able to get around the firmware flash.  I have a Rumba and flashing firmware is a much simpler process than the Printer Board Rev-E.  The only downside is it doesn't match up with the holes in the printer so you'll need to drill some new ones to mount it,

Photog wrote:

that elusive extruder fan problem again. Wish I had one! My board has no connector and I can't risk damaging my board by soldering on a connector I have no idea how to do that sort of thing.

I would be willing to unscrew my board off of the case and ship it to someone and pay someone to wire on a fan connector to the board for me, lol. Seriously any takers. $50 for the job and I'll pay for shipping to and from.

Could I just add on a non-gcode controlled fan? Like one that is always on. Or will that hurt print quality having it always running. I thought the purpose of an enclosure was partly to get rid of drafts.

If your really serious about paying that much wouldn't it just be easier to buy a better board such as the Rumba or Azteeg?

not sure.. is that harder or easier than adding the fan connector to the motherboard I have?

It says REV "E" on my motherboard. There is a spot that says "FAN" but no connectors that I can plug into

that elusive extruder fan problem again. Wish I had one! My board has no connector and I can't risk damaging my board by soldering on a connector I have no idea how to do that sort of thing.

I would be willing to unscrew my board off of the case and ship it to someone and pay someone to wire on a fan connector to the board for me, lol. Seriously any takers. $50 for the job and I'll pay for shipping to and from.

Could I just add on a non-gcode controlled fan? Like one that is always on. Or will that hurt print quality having it always running. I thought the purpose of an enclosure was partly to get rid of drafts.

If your really serious about paying that much wouldn't it just be easier to buy a better board such as the Rumba or Azteeg?

I would be willing to unscrew my board off of the case and ship it to someone and pay someone to wire on a fan connector to the board for me, lol. Seriously any takers. $50 for the job and I'll pay for shipping to and from.

Could I just add on a non-gcode controlled fan? Like one that is always on. Or will that hurt print quality having it always running. I thought the purpose of an enclosure was partly to get rid of drafts.

I wouldn't call that goopy. The part of that print where is springs up is overhang. The ABS on the spot is curling up because there isn't anything under it and it can cool faster so it warps up. It seems to stay goopy but in fact it is the hot end that keeps touching it and heating it back up. All of my filament does this with overhangs.

+1

I found that slowing the print speed down would help, but the ultimate solution was adding a fan along with a slower print speed.

Help!

Maybe moisture since they are old.   Try drying in the oven for a few hours at 170f.

That's what I thought might be the problem, but the symptoms of moist ABS I've read online mostly say popping and hissing which I'm not getting. But I'll try that.

Could extruder and bed temp be a factor as well? But funny it works fine for my other filaments. But they ARE a different brand, but all high quality non-cheap filament even the ones that are giving me problems.

I'm running the extruder at 205c (so really 235c on the SD3) and bed temp at 105c (but true bed temp on top of the glass is more like 85c). My case temp w/case heater on is between 30c at start of print and 38c by end of print. I thought maybe it's too hot in the case or too hot extrusion which is why the ABS stays soft during the printing and harden up might be the problem but like I said the other filaments aren't really giving me this problem.

I want to some day add an extruder fan on but I'm patiently waiting for a video on how to do that some day since my newer SD3 doesn't have any fan headings on the board and I'm not soldering/wiring/circuitboard savvy.

I have 9 different colors of filament and it seems the orange, and green, the first 2 I ever got and the oldest, now print "goopy." when printing the layers seem to spring back up or warp up immediately and stay soft and gooey which leads to the extruder nozzle crashing into them and messing up. It's really bad especially when it's building a gradual over hang up and out, the "tip" curls up. Also there's lots of blobs too. And doesn't seem to want to adhere to the print bed (glass bed) where all my other filaments are just fine and not giving me these problems.

It seems worse at lower layer heights like .2 and .1 but at .3 not as bad.

I can kind of fix it by printing 2 of the same object and placing it far apart from each other on the print bed but of course that doubles the print time.

Any ideas?