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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Z banding with taller object]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/5506/" />
	<updated>2014-03-02T05:23:34Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/5506/z-banding-with-taller-object/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Z banding with taller object]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/51264/#p51264" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>if cleaning them up (they can bind with crud at a +/-5° angle ) doesnt work you can replace them. <br />Here is an example: <a href="http://www.qbcbearings.com/BuyRFQ/PressB_Sintered_CSR_I.htm">http://www.qbcbearings.com/BuyRFQ/Press … _CSR_I.htm</a> ; BDBRSS-S375 is a functional equivalent...</p><p>should be able to locate them few places, Just look for self-aligning sintered bronze bushings ... stock rods are 3/8ths...</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[adrian]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/663/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-03-02T05:23:34Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/51264/#p51264</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Z banding with taller object]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/51261/#p51261" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>adrain said:<br />The banding can also just be good old fashion bushings play on the z-table and the screw is behaving normally so to speak... For this, a good generous reapplication of lube along with trying to &#039;pack the bearings&#039; with lube.. this will both free up movement and if using a decent viscous lube limit play slightly. </p><p>I&nbsp; had my SD3 about a year now.&nbsp; noticed a lot of play in the Z rod bushing, I wonder if they are replaceable.,The&nbsp; platform seems to have a constant downward tilt. because of that.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[satman49]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/574/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-03-02T04:48:57Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/51261/#p51261</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Z banding with taller object]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/49354/#p49354" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Thanks Adrian. The Z rod was never straight. I will try a tall square piece and see if the banding changes near the center of the SD2 z rod travel. Perhaps I reached a new height on the Z. I will check the other things too. -- ggunners</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[ggunners]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/4235/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-02-11T03:34:59Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/49354/#p49354</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Z banding with taller object]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/49336/#p49336" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>re banding - can be a few things. Slightly bent z-screw, which causes more pressure during rotations in particular directions - for this it will *usually* appear in the same place repetitively.. BUT...</p><p>The banding can also just be good old fashion bushings play on the z-table and the screw is behaving normally so to speak... For this, a good generous reapplication of lube along with trying to &#039;pack the bearings&#039; with lube.. this will both free up movement and if using a decent viscous lube limit play slightly. </p><p>For similar reasons to the bent screw - bent z-axis rods can also cause the problem to amplify. Try rotating the rods 180° and see if the problem moves to the opposite side of the prints... Tall square columns are good test pieces for this </p><p>Its also worth checking that your extruder itself is tight - remember on stock carriages there needs to be a slight amount of pivot to prevent binding, but often the rear nylon block can become loose and cause wobbles in the print head that exhibit similar symptoms to z-banding. Also check the extruder/motor mounts.. smaller layers mean more rapid velocity changes (until it hits the slowdowns for cooling) with a higher frequency that can overlap other vibrations from previous moves..</p><p>For cleaning up the white bits - quite often a good wash with water will clean it up surprisingly well. Or Isopropyl Alcohol.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[adrian]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/663/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-02-11T00:16:09Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/49336/#p49336</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Z banding with taller object]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/49318/#p49318" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>This print of <a href="http://www.makershop.co/shop/fantasygraph/item/bust--the-huntress"><span class="bbu">YSB&#039;s The Huntress</span></a> shows increased banding from her upper lip and above. I am not sure why that happened.&nbsp; I have printed with the Solidoodle natural filament before and the Solidoofle red shows the filament and the banding a lot more than natural. Can anyone explain why the banding became worse at that point in the print? </p><p>Also, i have several little white nits on the red print and have heard that a Q-tip and Acetone would make them red again. Is that the best way to finish this print besides the Acetone vapor method? -- ggunners</p><p><span class="postimg"><img src="http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&amp;item=4587&amp;download=0" alt="http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&amp;amp;item=4587&amp;amp;download=0" /></span></p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[ggunners]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/4235/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2014-02-10T21:51:26Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/49318/#p49318</id>
		</entry>
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