SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-03T19:21:59Z

Thanks again.
I wanted to see a higher res picture of you plastic "huntress" print, not the metal print picture which is good.

Okay, I found few good looking prints but the descriptions don't say if finishing was done, and when it says the camera focus is a bit bad to see any lines. I hope there was someone with a 3d printer in my town and I could see some i real life.
Which ones in thingiverse do you like?

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-03T18:59:12Z

the 'rouggness' are the the lines.. i will try to take a better picture..

yes, i use a Solidoodle 2 .... i tell you, the secret with this printer is slow speed. i print at 50mm/s (with move at 70mm/sec).
apart the problem of calibration, a lot of the 'line problem' comme from overshoot when the head of the printer move too fast..

for thingiverse : https://www.thingiverse.com/made-things and scrool to see... you will find a couple of very well made print..

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-03T18:19:42Z

ysb wrote:

look at the picture of a jewel i made for my wife on Shapeway with silver.. you can see the layering on the inner of the left leg

Thank you for showing me this. I don't really see lines here. I only see some roughness.

look at the bust 'the huntress' in my object collection (link in my sig) and you will see no lines (with a layer of 0.2mm...) and no post finishing.

That is very interesting. Do you use Solidoodle? I've seen some .2mm prints and they have very noticeable lines. How do you make your print look so good?
The resolution of the image isn't very high though, do you have a high res screenshot?

look in the 'made' section of thingiverse and you will see a lot of good print with near no lines...

I can't find it...

Thanks again.

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-03T17:53:03Z

even professional laser sintering machine got 'line'...

look at the picture of a jewel i made for my wife on Shapeway with silver.. you can see the layering on the inner of the left leg

the 'lines' can be less visible with layer of highter precision but never be gone totaly without a finishing methods (polish, paint or other...)

look in the 'made' section of thingiverse and you will see a lot of good print with near no lines...

look at the bust 'the huntress' in my object collection (link in my sig) and you will see no lines (with a layer of 0.2mm...) and no post finishing.

calibration and slow speed is the secret for FDM printer

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-02T10:24:20Z

That microlayering feature sounds like a great idea. I was actually thinking about something similar few weeks ago. Good to know something like that already exists.

Anyway. Right now I'm thinking of getting a Solidoodle 3, but I'm a little hesitant because of the lines that FMD printers make. I haven't seen them in real life and I haven't seen any printed at 0.1 mm resolution, but the ones I've seen don't look that great. There are tutorials on the internet about using sandpaper or acetone to remove them, but both give results far from perfect or good in my opinion.

I'm wondering if I should get a SD3, or search or wait for a printer with higher precision.
There are some good laser based printers which don't seem to have that line "artifacts", but then I limit myself with the number of materials I can use.

What would you do if you were in my place?

Perhaps I haven't seen enough .1mm prints to judge SD3 already?

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-02T04:41:40Z

Considering the true potential of the SD3 is hidden behind better carriages, a new hot end, a better extruder, a new hot surface, and a replacement Z-axis screw, I find the case would really get in the way. Besides, making your own case from printed parts and acrylic is a great first project.

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-01T18:02:42Z

There are many things that can be done to change speed, and in general half the layer height means twice the time. Slic3r has an option which is enabled in the default Solidoodle .1mm layers called microlayering.

From the Slic3r website:
Microlayering: save time, increase accuracy.
You can choose to print a thicker infill to benefit from low layer heights on perimeters and still keep your print time within a reasonable amount.

Using this technique, print time isn't directly proportional to the layer height, since the infill is printed at a lower resolution than the outside of the part. I would expect about 2.5 times as long for .1mm layers than for .3mm layers on average.

I am happy with my Solidoodle 3, and would buy it again over the Solidoodle 4. The case is the only big difference, although they do seem to have a new extruder in the works to replace the acrylic, but I don't know if they would put that on the 3 as well. In my opinion, a SD3 with an acrylic case will be very similar to an SD4 but easier to repair.

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-01T16:29:19Z

Hi Coaster. How long? I would assume twice as long comapared to 0.2 right?

Are there any other finishing methods other than acetone baths? Someone on Youtube printed a "pokeball" and said the lines were gone after he applied some acrylic paint and paint protector. youtube.com/watch?v=iTd4JTp1R6s
What do you guys think.

I agree that the lines might be exaggerated because of very close up shots. That's why I wanted to see a picture with a ruler or a coin next to the object to get a better idea. Maybe I should buy some 3d printed models. There's nobody here with a 3d printer so I could check something out in real life.

And getting abck to the topic title. Are there any real differences between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-01T16:09:51Z

Printing at .1mm layers definately helps hide the lines, but takes so long that I never bother to print such thin layers. Consumer level 3d printing is only just becoming popular. Don't expect professional quality prints from any of these sub-$1000 dollar printers. The real joy of these printers is that you can create almost anything you can dream up that fits within an 8*8*8 inch box! Also, many photos exaggerate the lines since they are taken so close to the model, so they may not be as noticeable as you are expecting, particularly with thin .1mm layers.

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-01T15:40:24Z

Thanks ronsii. Yes I know these lines are expected, but how big are the lines at .1 mm mode? I'm having trouble finding that out with images alone, most of the mm used and the close up images dont have anything else next to them like a coin as an example. I see smartphone case designs in Thingiverse, but wouldn't printing them with such printers results in bad looking prints wit those "lines" and the acetone finishing deforming it and making it too "melted" and assymetric?

Re: Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-01T14:55:51Z

The lines on prints are standard with fdm printing, there are tons of pics all over this forum(in high res) just have a look in here for starters ---> http://www.soliforum.com/forum/8/stl-sh … t-showoff/

Oh BTW, Welcome to the forum Python

Difference between Solidoodle 3 and 4?

2014-02-01T14:42:19Z

I've been looking at the pages of Solidoodle 3 and Solidoodle 4 and I'm having trouble finding difference between them. Sure, 4 looks a lot nicer, cleaner, with all the sensitive stuff inside the case and more like something you'd be okay with putting on your desktop. But these cosmetic differences aside, I don't see anything different in the specifications. Build size is the same, precision is the same, come with the same things.
So are there any other differences? I'm on a tight budget and I'm okay with how Solidoodle 3 looks.

BTW, being new to 3d printing, I'm not sure what precision of .1 mm means. I looked at the images in the site of prints but the images are too low resolution. Any close ups? Most 3d prints I've seen have "lines" on them because of "low" precision and the finishing types I've seen people use to remove those lines result in melting and deformation of the printed object. So I don't think I can print a good looking custom phone case and stuff which I wanted to use the printer for at that such level.