Ah yes, no HBP... My bad
Still, blue tape aint the best for ABS cold..
could try abs/acetone mix till its a paste, then paint it onto the blue tape so its a thin layer of ABS when it dries.
That might do it for you.
also could it be that im using abs instead of pla ?
]]>Ah yes, no HBP... My bad
could try abs/acetone mix till its a paste, then paint it onto the blue tape so its a thin layer of ABS when it dries.
That might do it for you.
I will try that i m also just gonna try printing on the bed itself with no tape or anything
Still, blue tape aint the best for ABS cold..could try abs/acetone mix till its a paste, then paint it onto the blue tape so its a thin layer of ABS when it dries.
That might do it for you.
]]>I think he got the non-heated bed...
you would be correct xD and also yea sorry but i seriously cant get stuff to stick it gets a few layers in and it pops up it is really annoying any other way to counter that ? im planning on upgrading to a heated bed within the few weeks i just wanna be able to print now
]]>the newer sd2's with the printrboard mainboard will work with any baud rate not just 250000.
did you do the autotune for the hotend PID's ?
Assuming he means 250000 and not 2500 or 2880 as written 
The printrboards 'dont care' about baud rate purely because the USB is inside the AVR and doesn't rely on the serial port baud rate, but the PC still talks to it via a traditional VCP so it needs to be an appropriate speed on the PC side of things...
And also - just checking - why the blue painters tape ? thats usually reserved for printing PLA, not ABS.. am I missing something ? that could be the non-sticking issue (since ABS will hold to tape for a short while,.. but not long...)
]]>did you do the autotune for the hotend PID's ?
]]>Also if this is what it is doing then check the temp graph screen on RH, you may need to run the atuotune PID's for the heater.
]]>