Thank you for your reply. 

How and where do you add a fuse? 

Does the beta motor give you faster extrusion speeds?

The PWM probably works, when I looked to buy mine I also looked at this but then bought local, shipping is a bitch in my country

However in my experience, its not necessary. The extrusion speeds are not that insanely high that you need to regulate it down. I havent turned down speed at all since I have it. A fuse is all you need.

One more thing I can recommend is separating the the heater and the motor circuit. If I remember correctly I just took the motor out of the circuit and that was it.

Will this power supply (posted earlier) work for both the beta motor and the heater?
http://www.amazon.com/Meanwell-Switchin … _hi_text_y

Does this PWM work for this setup?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TH4EN6/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

Are folks getting better extrusion rates with the new motor?  I didn't see a lot of posts about the results of testing.

Thanks.

10a is overkill. Based on my own observations 5amp should be more than enough.

Unfortunately being in New Zealand means buying from the US generally means paying more for shipping than the actual purchase price if they'll even ship to NZ, so most of the previously listed parts aren't really an option.

I was looking at just swapping out the existing supply for the 12V 10A unit listed here:
ebay.com/itm/2A-7A-8A-10A-12V-24V-Power-Supply-Adapter-Transformer-For-LED-CCTV-LCD-Monitor-/221393494291?pt=AU_Gadgets&var=&hash=item338c14a113

With one of these between the PID and motor, with a 2A fuse in it:
ebay.com/itm/12V-40V-10A-Pulse-Width-Modulator-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-Switch-Governor-New-/400603059026?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d45cd9352

(Sorry about the mildly malformed links, I guess I can't post anything that regexes as a link until I hit a certain post count.)

Would that be a reasonable setup?

I tried once to get all factors into one formula to predict the diameter but there are just to many^^ The temp seems to me the one having the biggest effect, my idea there was to increase the extrusion speed by increasing temp, so to keep the diameter I drilled the nozzle a bit and that worked.

Fan is on-edge to the face of the hole (using non-filtered for now), 66 mm below the hole.  Guide loop is 2mm above that at edge of fan (50mm away).

Now what?  I'm a bit hesitant to go lower in temp... and I was able to get the right size with the slower motor, so I'm hesitant to drill....

Good point about the melt filter. I very rarely use colorants, so thats useful feedback. It probably has to do with how the 6 channels of the filter draw from across the face of the die, instead of just one spot.

I'm beginning to think it might be because of the CPU fan -- this new fan I found is much larger than the old one... I wonder if it's cooling the brass plug too much so that the controller is actually trying to run at 220+ instead of 180...  off to play with cardboard and such to make baffles (I dropped the old fan and shattered its blades, so I can't go back that way)...

Maybe try the normal nozzle to isolate whether its the motor or the nozzle?

I bought a mesh-filter nozzle at the same time, and despite its bore diameter being 1.7mm (crappy Harbor Freight caliper), I'm getting 1.4-1.5mm.

Using OSP's ABS, 180c, and an intel CPU cooler fan (I damaged the other one).  Originally I was using a lower fan and guide wire, but I though gravity might be causing the problem, so I bumped it up to level with the hole... still no dice.
http://imgur.com/MecLu9B

I didn't have this problem with the non-melt-filter + KS motor.... Anyone have any tips?

Using a 2 or 3a power supply won't work as you need more than 2-3a when the motor first starts up.

*I wrote to some controller manufactures asking them if they would recommend their products for our purpose.

*Another question I just asked myself (with my amateur electronics knowledge^^) is if it would also be possible to keep the barrel safe by just having a 2-3amp powersupply (given the heat and motor are separate circuits). From my understanding that is how the standard motor operates now, right? It uses the current not used by the heater, but would be able to run faster/stronger if giving more current?

* and last if 10amps stalled rips the machine apart when starting cold what is the upper limit when warmed up? If you have controller and you're running PLA (as a softer material) I can imagine allowing the motor 3-4 amps and have "high speed extrusion".

I have a couple of these modules sitting on a shelf:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-Constant-Cur … 338c9e99b8

Just haven't had time to test.