SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-16T11:47:37Z

Whoa...Nice! You went the high-dollar route with the full Acrylic.

Here's my cheapskate option...

Used slit vinyl sheet for the right side for quick access and a wood header with hinged acrylic top. Everything held on by magnets as well!

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-15T23:10:51Z

It's a nice little heater, perfect size. It get the inside temp up to around 60-65, which is as far as I would want to go with the acrylic extruder, and another reason to print an ABS one.

I've attached a DXF of the case. It has holes for the various rivets and things to help it stay flush, and is held on by 1/4"x1/4" magnets. There is a hole for an 80mm fan on one side, which can be used to blow in hot air, vent out fumes, or blow cool air over the build area for PLA.

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-15T22:19:55Z

IanJohnson wrote:

I might just get that for me. The garage is 50f in the morning now which is too cold for me. Also the bed struggles to maintain 80c at that ambient temperature. Maybe there would be a way to run a dryer duct from the heater to the case.

We are always impressed with your work station - looks great!

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-12T16:04:36Z

McMuFFin wrote:

thats pretty cool, yeah please post the stl

Thanks...will post to the "STL Sharing" post section tonight.

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-12T16:02:14Z

I might just get that for me. The garage is 50f in the morning now which is too cold for me. Also the bed struggles to maintain 80c at that ambient temperature. Maybe there would be a way to run a dryer duct from the heater to the case.

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-12T15:40:12Z

IanJohnson wrote:

It was frustrating. If you stuck a print too hard, it was really hard to scrape off of the acrylic, to the point I would have to pour acetone over the leftover bits and let it soak. Otherwise a print was guaranteed to warp if it was bigger than about 80mm. I resorted to putting foamcore panels on the sides so I could cut a hole to blow a heat gun in. This worked, but it meant running a heat gun for 3 hours sometimes, at who knows what cost.
Sam eventually sent me a prototype heated bed which was a huge improvement. I think it is pointless to order a printer without one.
I might still consider doing something like that to raise the ambient temps for problematic prints. I'm sure there is a better source for hot air than a cheap heat gun. You could use the hole on the door as an access when using the metal case, or design your own acrylic case with a port of some kind.
I have a case I will put on thingiverse soon with a hole for an 80mm fan on the right side. It could be used to vent out fumes or blow warm air from a duct of some kind. Maybe a silicone heating pad could be used as a heat source, either to warm air, or placed in the bottom of the case.

ever consider using something like this http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-100-MyHeat- … y_hg_img_z ?

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-12T15:33:39Z

thats pretty cool, yeah please post the stl

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-11T23:53:48Z

I cleaned up the Kapton with acetone and extruded at 200 / 95 with a 3mm brim and it worked great! Thanks to Ian and the rest for all for the tips! Here is the unit I was printing...

I had cut my teeth in Manufacturing many years ago with wire feeding equipment and one of the things we always had to do was make sure there was no sudden tugging on the infeed. The piece I designed and printed absorbs any sudden tugs when the extruder is moving quickly from home to the other extremes. Can only be used when cover is off!

Don't know if it makes any difference in print quality, but it makes me feel better! If anyone's interested, I can post the STL...

Rick D.

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-10T01:27:54Z

Look into using unscented hairspray. I read somewhere that it helps. I can only confirm that today I have had lots of success with that, but I also simultaneously replaced the kapton tape (confounding variable.)

Another thing I noticed is that I can't get the temp much above 100celsius, so I set it to 115 celsius and place a layer of cardboard on the bed. Then once it's at temp I start the print and pull the cardboard off. This way the first layer is quite firmly attached.

One other thing I fixed was that I originally measured my filament to be ~1.71, but I noticed smearing on the print pattern. Today I remeasured and set it to 1.75, because that seems much more accurate.

Day 1 of real printing today though (yesterday everything was failing.)

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-09T21:46:42Z

Have you tried 200ºC for extruder and 90ºC for bed? (goes down to 85ºC after the first layer)
I had the same problems and put the Extrusion width to 200% and washed the kapton with acetone. With these numbers and methods, my prints stucks perfect to the bed. Wait for some cooling and the finished product breaks easy off.

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-09T21:33:58Z

Warping and peeling up is caused by the ABS shrinking as it cools. The heat reduces the shrinking, at least for the lower layers. Upper layers would be subject to more stress, which might be enough to pull up the bottom anyway, or cause splitting partway up. Warming the air around the print would help the whole thing stay at the same temp so it isn't cooling at different rates, causing uneven stresses.

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-09T20:31:30Z

Wow!! I guess we don't want an unheated bed!

So with an acrylic bed, the parts would stick well even when cold (ambient) but parts larger than 3" would warp and pull up...so the heated bed keeps the parts from warping and pulling up, and does not play as direct a role in adhesion...Is that correct?

The silicone heating pad sounds like a good idea, or maybe an element from an old toaster oven with a metal heat shield over it.

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-09T19:17:41Z

It was frustrating. If you stuck a print too hard, it was really hard to scrape off of the acrylic, to the point I would have to pour acetone over the leftover bits and let it soak. Otherwise a print was guaranteed to warp if it was bigger than about 80mm. I resorted to putting foamcore panels on the sides so I could cut a hole to blow a heat gun in. This worked, but it meant running a heat gun for 3 hours sometimes, at who knows what cost.

Sam eventually sent me a prototype heated bed which was a huge improvement. I think it is pointless to order a printer without one.

I might still consider doing something like that to raise the ambient temps for problematic prints. I'm sure there is a better source for hot air than a cheap heat gun. You could use the hole on the door as an access when using the metal case, or design your own acrylic case with a port of some kind.

I have a case I will put on thingiverse soon with a hole for an 80mm fan on the right side. It could be used to vent out fumes or blow warm air from a duct of some kind. Maybe a silicone heating pad could be used as a heat source, either to warm air, or placed in the bottom of the case.

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-09T18:27:47Z

Thanks Jon, I will try that as well...

BTW, with the SD1 and its unheated platform, how did the ABS stick to that? Just wondering...

Re: ABS won't stick to bed when using Slic3r

2012-11-09T16:11:50Z

I am using Repetier and Slicer and ABS. One thing that really helped me was running the first layer at 25% of the normal print head speed.