SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — E3D issues.

Re: E3D issues.

2013-11-10T19:21:48Z

adrian, thanks, the VREF adjustment did the trick.
wbrandsmeier, no. I have not had issues with shaved material. You are right about filament not feeding straight but it has not caused me any issues. However, I am going to switch back to the MK4 top piece because it is much easier to load the filament from the front as opposed to trying to feed it in through the notch on the side and over the drive wheel.

Re: E3D issues.

2013-11-04T14:13:16Z

I ran into this same issue of the E3D being wider than lawsy's holder. I used washers to offset the head enough to clear the carriage. While I was using the E3D for the first time since getting the mismatch to work out, the filament hole does not line up with the stepper which does not line up with the E3D. I keep getting a small amount of filament being shaved off.

Anyone else have issues with the E3D head shaving filament off?

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-21T03:36:45Z

Dial the VREF trimpot on the driver for the extruder down slightly, and if it stays stalled, dial it up slightly.. Tiny adjustment makes big difference.

Set Rh to extrude 100mm at 50mm/min to give you a good 2mins to fine tune it. Thats what I do anyway.

Also make sure with the plate in place you have, that the extruder drive Cog is aligned as best as possible to avoid putting excess friction against the walls of the extruder body

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-21T03:13:28Z

I have everything mounted just fine but now I am getting wavy lines. The j-head produced silky smooth lines. Is there something in the firmware for this? What am I missing now? Is my extruder motor going bad? It doesn't look like it's rolling smoothly.

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-19T23:46:04Z

so the fins at the back against the bearing mount on the solidoodle OEM x-carriage ? odd... My SD3 from January '13 worked fine using the OEM sled... I guess dimensions have changed slightly...

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-19T23:15:04Z

elmoret wrote:

He's talking about how the heatsink of the E3D extends beyond the flat face of the lawsy body.

Yes. I tried grinding some material from the motor mount / x axis but it didn't help. Without the shim the hot end is not straight, it sits a bit diagonal. It seems this is not an issue with Lawsy's x / y carriage or maybe even newer Solidoodles.

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-19T23:02:13Z

He's talking about how the heatsink of the E3D extends beyond the flat face of the lawsy body.

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-19T22:58:37Z

FatalDischarge wrote:

This is why I need the spacer.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-53Fe … -no/13+-+1

I don't get it.. Looks normal to me? I meant take pix with it assembled and it obvious what's not fitting... Because your pic looks like a normal setup and I can't see where it doesn't fit/align?

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-19T20:42:26Z

This is why I need the spacer.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-53Fe … -no/13+-+1

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-19T11:13:29Z

FatalDischarge wrote:

I feel like this is a clue that something is not right, as if it is trying to tell me something.

Don't buy the cheapest LED strips from the Chinese you possibly can ? thats about all its telling you...

FatalDischarge wrote:

The main problem I am having now is that I had to make a shim out of 2mm plastic to get any clearance between the E3D heat sink and the extruder mount / X axis with the MK5. Either that or grind down the heat sink fins, which I don't feel like doing.

I haven't had an issue with any of my Mk5 extruder mounts and either the v4 or v5 e3d (bowden and non-bowden), so I can't hazard a guess where you problem has originated there. Have you checked the tolerances of your prints lately ? Could you post a picture of where the problem is ?

Only problem I ever had was with the Mk4 holder, you had to ditch the left-lower screw.... which doesn't exist on the mk5

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-19T10:03:43Z

I read somewhere, unless I read it wrong, that these motors can lift 5 lbs. Is that true? Weight is not an issue because I have not moved the motors much. I have yet to run material through it. I would think the lights would stabilize once everything was up to temp. I feel like this is a clue that something is not right, as if it is trying to tell me something.
The main problem I am having now is that I had to make a shim out of 2mm plastic to get any clearance between the E3D heat sink and the extruder mount / X axis with the MK5. Either that or grind down the heat sink fins, which I don't feel like doing.

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-18T11:06:40Z

That's a valid explanation in general for flickering, but, in this instance even plugged directly into 40amps before it even gets to the RAMPS (in my case) and RAMPS plus bed plus e3d draws 20amp... I can tell you its not the actual instance here...

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-18T11:00:52Z

FatalDischarge wrote:

Also, why are the lights flickering?

adrian is probably right and I'm almost always wrong, but for what it's worth: my lights flickered a little before I put on the E3D, then a lot after I put it on, then not at all once I replaced my power supply with this one. I was told at the time it was a consequence of the power running short, and the E3D drawing more power (or making the motors draw more power to pull the extra weight around).

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-18T08:43:05Z

Wow. I love it when things work on the first try. Thanks for that. There has to be a way to make it so it comes on when powered on instead of g-code. Somewhere in pins.h perhaps?
Also, if I moved the lights to, lets say P6, would the flickering still happen? Is there away to change the pulse width? EDIT: I should ask, is there a way to change to a smoother pulse?

Re: E3D issues.

2013-10-17T11:02:03Z

FatalDischarge wrote:

I applied some Arctic Silver to the thermistor thinking it may help. I don't think it did. In fact, it is probably what caused the short. I just happened to be in arms reach of the thermistor from my first hotend so I tried it, now everything works.
I would like to know how to enable and utilize the all of the connections on the X3. How do I control D16 / 17 or D4, D5, D6, and D11? I was thinking of just connecting the E3D fan to the same wires as the extruder motor fan but I would rather keep everything separate.
Also, why are the lights flickering?

q1: there is an gcode to switch i/o pins, such as:

M42 in Marlin/Sprinter
Example: M42 P7 S255

M42 switches a general purpose I/O pin.

S255 allows you to set different PWM (should they be PWM pins).

If you want more than that, you have to hack the firmware directly.

Marlin does support pins in the new firmware I uploaded to act as 'turn on when driver first used, turn off x seconds after last used' which might be worth you looking in to.

Q2: They do that. Its due to the way the PWM circuit on them works to drive the strip. Its indicative of nothing in particular, isn't a fault, and mine do it too...