IanJohnson wrote:

RavensCrest wrote:

in any way, were you thinking about iron cast pans?lol.

I doubt you would get much warping with those materials.

LOL rocketman will believe you too.. or were you being serious?

Not about the Solidoodle, but a cast iron skillet seasoned with bacon grease might be worth considering for this printer -

RavensCrest wrote:

IanJohnson wrote:

Let the glass season and build up layers of hairspray and ABS.

in any way, were you thinking about iron cast pans?lol.

I doubt you would get much warping with those materials.

LOL rocketman will believe you too.. or were you being serious?

I notice you are using like 1/16" / 2.3mm glass. It will flex when clipped to the bed. I even removed the tape on the bed to be sure this was the problem. I can slide a card under evenly at all corners but the center I can not, i have to force the card under. So either the rods are warped or the bed is warped. It looks like the bed to me. So my plan is to get thicker glass.

I think it's pretty ridiculous to sell a product with this sort of issue. My extruder fan also makes loud screeching sounds half the time. I just sent an email about this today so we will see what they say.

IanJohnson wrote:

Let the glass season and build up layers of hairspray and ABS.

in any way, were you thinking about iron cast pans?lol.

That's the idea, though I wouldn't recommend bacon grease as a hairspray alternative.  It would probably smell good though.  Now if you were extruding butter or pancake batter through a paste extruder it would be worth considering.  I doubt you would get much warping with those materials.

Let the glass season and build up layers of hairspray and ABS.

in any way, were you thinking about iron cast pans?lol.

you need to spent more time looking at the configurable fields in your RH. it will help.

If you must print this piece in solid, you might want to increase each layer's time, and lower the print speed. so each layer has more time to spread it's heat and the temperature for the whole piece is more uniform...

on top of that... did the lifting occurred on 5th layer? that's too soon... you might want to do a first layer configuration again...

I dont think anyone asked this question yet... what's your room temperature? winter is coming...

It's actually in Slic3r.  You can access the configs through the configure button, which runs an instance of Slic3r.  Once there, you change your settings and save them.  When you close the Slic3r instance, the settings are transferred to RH for you to choose from.

In Slic3r under Printer Settings, you'll see Skirt and Brim.  Change the value for Brim Width to whatever will work for you then save your settings.

And what width is a good bet generally? I don't mind using extra material to hold it down so long as it cuts off easily enough. And what other variables do I need to play with. I've tried using the brim settings in the past and the layers peeled apart. I'd like to be particular this time.

In Slic3r under Printer Settings, you'll see Skirt and Brim.  Change the value for Brim Width to whatever will work for you then save your settings.

It's in the slic3r configs, not Repetier.

The slic3r tab within Repetier? It at least appears to be the same software. In any case, what should I do in there?

Slic3r adds it automatically on the first layer only.  It is kind of like adding extra perimeters that go outside the model rather than inside, creating an outline of a width specified in the settings.  The idea is that the shrinking that pulls up the edges can only act on the print itself. Since the brim is only the first layer, most of that shrinking force won't act on it, so it can stay stuck to the bed and help hold the edges down.  Someone suggested that spreading a little acetone on the brim with a paintbrush after it has been printed will help it stick even more.

Any suggestions for defining the brim in repetier for best results?

So.

That print looks like it takes half your bed. I wouldnt even touch that without a brim. Seriously, it makes a huge difference. Its extremely easy to cut off (and sometimes it just pulls off).

Also, if you put a single void right in the middle of that huge thing, you would be eliminating most of your stress that is pulling it up.

And lastly, I have heard on another board that if you use Elmers glue stick on your bed, it works almost as good as an ABS slurry. If fumes are a problem, this may be worth a try.

While these 3 suggestions may not seem like something you want to do, I am willing to bet you wont get that print without doing all three at the same time.

How do brims work exactly? Are they supposed to be inserted into a model at a certain height by default or relative to how wide or tall the object is ultimately going to be?