Getting persistent nipple twist as well
Not sure it will help as I did this after mine was well broken in but adding imageit's hopper, "pressing" the pieces into place against the flange and fastening the top and bottom with screws seemed to make it a lot more twist resistant. I broke the one piece hopper supplied with the kit in very short order.
]]>Do you have the wooden thrust plate? If so, is the thrust bearing getting pressed into the wood? This will cause binding, as the thrust gets transferred to the motor and pushes it out of axial alignment. The fix is a new harder material thrust plate. If that's the issue, shoot me an email (filastruder@gmail) and we'll get a new thrust plate on the way free of charge.
]]>Before, I was starting the motor as soon as the thermistor reached the target temperature, and I repeatedly had to rotate the barrel repeatedly to keep the feed hole at the top. And that's pretty irritating - you have to unscrew four bolts and hold the whole assembly together, rotate it 90 or 180 degrees, then bolt it back in place. And I think that's why I was having "washer" problems. After rotating the barrel and/or replacing the washers a few times, I am very happy waiting 15 minutes. Plenty of time to make a good cup of coffee, then come back and flip the motor on.
]]>Fastrack wrote:As Tim said RTM
I have and I do all that you have suggested. I am not seeing the same thing you are. That is, I do not see anything that prevents the nipple from threading itself down into the flange once the auger is turning and drags it that way, at least not until it runs out of threads. Thanks.
One suggestion that Tim had in the 58 page thread. Unbolt the flange and rotate it 90 degrees, the hopper ran operate at a 45 degree angle as well.
Ben
]]>As Tim said RTM
I have and I do all that you have suggested. I am not seeing the same thing you are. That is, I do not see anything that prevents the nipple from threading itself down into the flange once the auger is turning and drags it that way, at least not until it runs out of threads. Thanks.
]]>It doesn't matter what temp u use. You have to warm it up for about 15 mins AFTER it reaches the set temp.
I run mine @ 195 and I set a timer for 30 min once I turn on the heater.
If you set it to 200 and your reading 190 you need to wrap the sensor in kapton tape. You can also test the thermocouple, pour boiling water over the sensor it should read 100C. IMF your still not getting stable temps. Do a calibration.
As Tim said RTM
Anyway. No nipple lock is required, it works fine as is.
Ben
]]>"Elmo"?
Honestly, based on "yell at Tim" and your attitude in Hunter Green's thread, I'd rather just send you a prepaid shipping label and refund you than try to support someone that treats people that way. Let me know.
It is your business, run it however you want to.
]]>"Elmo"?.
Short for elmoret.
All I said is that it needs a lock nut. That is 2 dollars from Grainger. I will do it myself, thanks for being receptive to the feedback.
]]>Works great for me and hundreds of other users.
Customer service at its finest.
]]>Honestly, based on "yell at Tim" and your attitude in Hunter Green's thread, I'd rather just send you a prepaid shipping label and refund you than try to support someone that treats people that way. Let me know.
]]>Sounds like you aren't waiting for the plastic to come up to to temperature as described in the manual. Works great for me and hundreds of other users.
No, I am running it at 200 on the led reported 190 on the sensor, that is so the little roller pin does not spin around the shaft since it can't handle it. Any other ideas elmo?
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