I recently added a party tray to my top enclosure. I had a piece of plexiglass on top before with some large gaps. Perhaps this helped considerable or this is my first time using white filament. Maybe that is what helped?

I want to use ABS if I can for cost reasons.

You want the SOLVENT for the adhesive not the adhesive.  It is on the same shelf at the big box store (Oatey #30795, yellow can).  If you can find some MEK, just mix it 50-50 with acetone and you will have the same stuff.

Sauce:  Dissolve ABS in the solvent to about the thickness skim milk, maybe even a bit thinner.

Use BOTH the hairspray, AND the sauce.  Hairspray 1st.

Do you recommend the ABS glue from the store or home made?

I may be able to thin out my design but i don't want to loose to much strength.

Some wise boarders here suggested adjusting the stepper driver to smooth out the stepper motion hence reducing the amplitude of the pressure pulses.  Also suggested was the ultimate fix: replace the driver board with the DRV8825 unit that allows 1/32 microstepping.  It is pretty cheap.

I have adjusted the stock driver with good results (turning a really tiny pot on the board for a good balance of smoothness and torque) and no ill effects.

Assuming you do not want to redesign the part:
1. Glue it down.  I am quite convinced of this.
2. Reduce the temperature delta in the part while building it by:
-         a: Turning off fans intended to cool the filament.  Keep the building part as warm as possible.
-         b: Putting an enclosure around the Doodle  (cardboard works as experiment).
-         c: Use a fairly hot bed.  With the enclosure, this helps keep the entire environment warmer and -             closer to the extruder temp.

Redesigning the part:
The walls are the culprit.  Using a lower density interior won't help much since there is already enough void inside to manage stress that is trying to pull up the corners.  If you printed the part with only exterior walls you would still be having the same issues, as witnessed by all of the examples of warped project boxes.  Conversely, if you printed a similar brick entirely at 50% infill (no perimeters) it would not warp.

You need walls on your part.  Anything you could do to make them thinner, either entirely or in strategic places, would help.

Hope this helps
(Glue it down.  Call me a dufus publicly if it does not work.)

The widely spaced grille (facing front in the default camera position) wasn't there originally.  As a result, that side of the enclosure cooled slower.  Everything else cooled (and shrunk) faster, so corners would keep popping off.  So, I added the grille on that side (which is completely non-functional, as it's covered, since the enclosure sits on that side), and problem was solved.

In my design we're talking a mass that's a couple of mm thick.  Yours is tens of cm thick.  So, no matter what you do, you can postpone lifting, but my guess is it'll happen eventually, unless you modify the design.  The general idea is that you want the inner mass to cool faster (e.g., reduce infill as someone already suggested, or subtract entire volumes to hollow out pieces) and make the tabs cool slower (e.g., add a cylinder in the holes, with small gap).  But perhaps your best bet is to print in multiple pieces and ABS glue or friction weld (very easy with a Dremel).

The idea of clamping the brim is neat (hadn't thought of that), may buy you a few more layers till it pops off, but my guess is that, with such a huge difference in cooling speed that's inherent in the design, the forces might be large enough to eventually tear the brim off.

Good luck!

What is your bed temp set to?  I had to crank mine pretty much as high as it can go, because I use a floor tile as my bed, so even with it set to 110c, the tile only goes to 55c.

Since you too are clamping something, I say that you should probably crank the bed up as high as you can go safely, within the limits of the machine.

I know someone else on the forum recommended this.  Print a bit, like two layers or three layers, and then pause the print, and then take acetone and a q-tip and then dab the acetone with the q-tip to various parts of the brim to fuse it to the bed. then resume print.  I haven't tried that personally but it sounds like it would help with this massive print, since you're essentially spot-welding it to the bed.

One idea; Since you are on the very edge, why not pause the rint after 5 or 6 layers and clamp down the brim since it overhangs?

I want some advice from the experts.

-I have my first layer pretty squished into the bed. To the point it sometimes creates waves in the first few layers. Should I back off?
-I have a glass bed(mirror with beveled edges).  My print brim barley runs off the edge but this could be starting the warping. Can I make my own brim by modeling a layer that is the exact height as my first layer?
-ABS cement on hairspray. I have seen this mentioned in another thread. Anyone else use this stuff. Seems like it would do the trick.
-Would I benifit from a QU-BD bed?

Here are some examples.

Also there seems to be some spots in the infill where the extruder stops extruding for a moment. Any Ideas?