SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2014-01-11T13:02:20Z

I don't have that printer anymore, but the stepper motors were original equipment, so whatever that was.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2014-01-10T23:33:46Z

Are the stepper motors 12v?

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-23T02:31:25Z

And there's the recycle sort center, at last complete. Each of the sign halves slides out so I can rearrange or replace them if I ever need to reconfigure the recycle center.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:138645

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-23T02:20:10Z

Only took two months to finally finish printing the five signs like this I started when I was building my recycle center. Used about half a spool of green filament on all the failures, too.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-22T23:59:42Z

Just as you finally get it to your liking?

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-22T23:20:06Z

Replaced the print bed and was able to level it, without any sign of warping. Doing a print now on glass. Three layers down and no curl so far.

If this continues to be working through a few days of testing, I'm going to be posting for sale soon.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-22T01:24:04Z

You can try setting a thicker first layer in slic3r to make it more tolerant. I would suggest both the first layer height and the first layer extrusion multiplier.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-22T01:17:16Z

With no actionable ideas or directions on how to address the curl problem with the ceramic, I tried going back to glass, but while the rail has been replaced, the bed still has the warping that makes it impossible to level and calibrate. When I get it leveled so it's the right height at the outer edges, the middle is too low and the plastic won't stick; if I adjust up at that point, anywhere off the middle ends up having layer 2 rub on layer 1, making a mess.

So the next step is switching out the bed with the spare. That'll have to wait for another night, though.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-21T11:08:03Z

Thanks Adrian, thats interesting, and certainly something I will experiment with.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-21T10:37:59Z

Gomisan wrote:

As for 90C ... that seems very low anyway. I set my heater at 115C and give my glass a good amount of time to warm up, and if I'm printing I wont turn off the heater at all for hours, so I can get things as stable as possible in my enclosure.

Thats actually the recommended temperature for the SD bed by SD themselves, and there is valid arguments to it. Its been gone through before, but basically, you don't need it that hot, and in fact, cranking it hotter, whilst it does outwardly appear to 'fix it' to some extent, is really only plastering over the problem.

You can succesfully print with full adhesion on the SD bed at a mere 90°, and actually get LESS warping, as at the lower tempreatures, as your heater isn't driving as hard on as short a duty cycle, the bed temp *over the surface of the whole bed* is more equal, there is less delta between the thermistor and the bed edges.

At >90°, you will begin developing large 10-25° delta's across the bed surface... at 115, you will certainly be getting 115 at the thermistor, but the bed edges will be down around 90 anyway... meaning that on a LARGE print you will actually get *worse* warping and lifting, as parts of the model cool at vastly different rates to the rest of the model.

Anyway - yes its counter intuitive, but its to do with temp consitency.... have a look at the thermal images I posted months ago to get a better understanding...

Lower Temp == More Even Temp.... More Even Temp == less propensity to warp regardless of model size ...

The much higher temps thrown around for the likes of RepRaps is due to their need to combat 'drafts' that will rapidly cool the bed - so they over compensate. On a Solidoodle - you just stick cardboard on the sides of the frame, problem solved...

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-21T04:38:36Z

What sort of contact does the tile have with the heater? Every tile I looked at had a very rough surface, totally useless for heat transfer. You either need to heat the tile better or test it's temperature another way.

As for 90C ... that seems very low anyway. I set my heater at 115C and give my glass a good amount of time to warm up, and if I'm printing I wont turn off the heater at all for hours, so I can get things as stable as possible in my enclosure.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-20T22:48:26Z

I briefly tried ceramic, and my distinct impression was that the glaze isn't really all that flat. I have some 220 grit on order, and am going to try grinding 3 tiles against each other (same technique used to make optical flats) to see if I can make the surface really flat and if that will make tile work better (as long as I don't go too far and grind off all the glaze).

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-20T21:20:37Z

The good news is that the skipping seems to be gone.

The bad news is that the curling is not solved even by letting the heat soak in for 20 minutes at 90C before starting to print. And it's so bad that the resulting prints are unusable unless small:

Not sure what else to try. This had plenty of hairspray, enclosure in place, nothing else changed other than the ceramic.

Maybe I should go back to glass and see if the rail change is enough with just that.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-20T21:13:22Z

Same temp, but ceramic will take alot longer to get hot enough on top before printing. 10 minutes at least.

Re: Park, home, and Y axis skip problems after E3D install

2013-10-20T16:24:36Z

In the past I either had no curl, or a lot, usually on one corner. This time, I had a slight amount of curl, but everywhere. Do I need to run the bed heater on higher or lower when using ceramic? Or I just need to let it sit a while after reaching temperature before printing, but otherwise use the same temperature (I usually use 90)?