Otherwise no matter how high I set the board temp, 85c is it. 

Thanks again.

Wardjr, could we please have a post in the Hacks/Mods section of the forum describing how you eventually got the AC heated bed wired up?  That is one of the coolest mods I've seen yet, and I'd love to do it too if possible!  I'm getting tired of being stuck at 85 degrees with the stock bed.

I still have my old heat pad... I'm going to experiment with it a little bit and see if I can't come up with anything useful as far as getting more out of it.  The worst thing that can happen is I burn it out.

V= IR, P = I^2 R, So if you increase (14/12)  16.7% voltage, you are increasing by 36% the power going to the heater.

Wardjr, could we please have a post in the Hacks/Mods section of the forum describing how you eventually got the AC heated bed wired up?  That is one of the coolest mods I've seen yet, and I'd love to do it too if possible!  I'm getting tired of being stuck at 85 degrees with the stock bed.

It is probably time I get motivated and do exactly that.  In the mean time I'm always willing to answer your questions.

Im going on almost a year for my SD3.  One problem after another.  The printer came off kilter out of the box, tilts from side to side... 

Never can get the bed above 85C, I enclosed it in acrylic, have the glass bed and use hairspray.

I have the bed flat and extruder calibrated.

Little prints come out fine, anything over 4 inches, good luck. 

Ive been using ABS, I am planning trying PLA, maybe its the ABS.

It's your bed temperature.... Get up over 105 and a lot of your problems will go away.  Using a good 5mm brim helps also.
So if your bed temp won't go any higher it can be many things.  Mostly the heater that came with the SD3 around the time you got yours was not good.  I know mine wasn't.

Also the power supply that came with the SD3 was also inadequate.
The good news is you can check and see if it's a Power supply issue.  I presume you have the printer board that had screw terminals for the 12v power in.  So all I did was put any good 12V  battery into play. (I used an ATV Battery)  Just hook your PSU wires to the battery then two others wires from that to the board.  Red to Red   Black to black. 
This will act as a reserve and if your heater then achieves higher temps then you know it is just a PSU issue.
In my case I ran for close to a month using a battery charger that I had laying around that had a 50 amp boost setting.  Before I did this I checked that the voltage was near 12V.  If I recall it was closer to 14V.  It worked like a charm until I could address the PSU issue. 
Give it a shot what do you have to lose.

Never can get the bed above 85C, I enclosed it in acrylic, have the glass bed and use hairspray.

I have the bed flat and extruder calibrated.

Little prints come out fine, anything over 4 inches, good luck. 

Ive been using ABS, I am planning trying PLA, maybe its the ABS.

I wonder if the lack of sticking problems in the Solidoodle bot farm is due to printing the same objects over and over.  The parts get printed on top of the accumulated residue of many previous identical prints, so it would be a little like using a print bed treated with an abs/acetone mix.

Perhaps this, and the parts seem to be fairly reasonable to print in general. They were designed to be printable.

An odd thread that really didnt seem to go anywhere.

I suspect that heaer limitation may have been reversed, or limited to only a few printers. I've not seen anyone here posting about bed temps being limited to that low.

We used to have beds that were limited that way. Not anymore.

For the record, they seemed to work OK. Remember, we use the printers for the parts on the printer - the fail rate on the line would have been unacceptable if there was a massive problem.

Then again we also print on Kapton with no spray. With black filament.