<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Heated build chamber]]> 2014-03-25T17:57:32Z PunBB https://www.soliforum.com/topic/3863/heated-build-chamber/ <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> i discovered that the problem can appear with a 6x6x6" SD2 type printer with a updated heated bed (silicon pad with 30A power supply..)

my i3 8x8x8" with a standard heatbed (12A power supply) seem to not have problem with "overheat"

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/40/ 2014-03-25T17:57:32Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/52935/#p52935 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> Honestly I never really needed to use any temp controls because it seems to settle at 55c and doesn't exceed so I never really felt the need to add one.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2779/ 2014-03-25T17:45:16Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/52934/#p52934 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> use this

http://www.dx.com/p/stc-1000-1-7-lcd-mi … 20v-259160

to control fans.. (thats what i use in my own heat chamber)

you can hack it to use 12v instead of 220v for the powe supply (easy hack :  http://www.digitalspirit.org/blog/index … e-STC-1000  sorry, it's in french but you will understand with the photo.. there is only one component (a 220v to 12v transformer) to remove as the controller already work with only 12v)

you can found 110v version on ebay or amazon if you don't want to hack it..

this controller can control a heat source and a cool source... (i only use it to cool down when i reach the max temp of my enclosure)

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/40/ 2014-03-25T16:33:27Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/52932/#p52932 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> Techbuilder - That is some nice work on the enclosure.  Have you decided how to control the heat to keep it at 55C or whatever you want using.  I am looking at building an enclosure for my Ord Bot and not sure how to keep it at a steady temp.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/5317/ 2014-03-22T05:39:27Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/52683/#p52683 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> I'm sure that would work but really anything that you use to insulate made of fabric will insulate
far better than without.

I personally went with the stuff from home depot because it was cheap had a decent operating temperature and was easily acquired 
since I live down the street from home depot.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2779/ 2014-03-13T04:45:47Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/51995/#p51995 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> Idea, what  about a mylar survival blanket? It traps heat well and is real cheap.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/574/ 2014-03-13T04:33:08Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/51994/#p51994 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> wingless wrote:

The interior chamber heater is great for start-up, but offers little benefit once printing has started.

The extrusion nozzle and the bed heater dump lots of heat into the enclosure, reducing the amount of additional chamber heat to zero, when the printer is running.

Not necessarily true
keeping the enclosure heated to a minimum of 55°C provides greater layer adhesion.

My printer is fully enclosed and has insulation and I was able to only achieve an ambient temperature of
37°C with the heated bed and the extruder.

My prints were much more reliable and stronger when printed at 55°C

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2779/ 2014-03-13T02:57:19Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/51988/#p51988 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> The interior chamber heater is great for start-up, but offers little benefit once printing has started.

The extrusion nozzle and the bed heater dump lots of heat into the enclosure, reducing the amount of additional chamber heat to zero, when the printer is running.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/4653/ 2014-03-12T17:24:04Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/51949/#p51949 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> mm2tts wrote:

Our SD is enclosed with a cardboard box and heated via a personal space heater pointed through a hole in the side of the box. Interior temp hits 50C (this is read via the temp reading from the extruder before the extruder is heated). We also use a glass bed and hairspray. No lifting from the bed.


Does this work well for you? With out a simple box. I get cracking in my prints that are over 4 hrs.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1783/ 2013-09-24T19:08:20Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/37216/#p37216 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> have you thought about those ceramic heater/cooler units? i forget what they are called, but you could put them on the steppers to keep them cool, and use a fan to circulate the heat from the other side, might need a temp controlled vent fan in that case since you don't want to be cycling the cooling of the stepper, could cause consistency problems.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2041/ 2013-09-22T12:52:23Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/36992/#p36992 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> ITman496 wrote:

So 70C is where ABS no longer shrinks/warps?  I thought it was higher then that for some reason..

90C is the transition line, but is gets quite soft from 80c-90c. At 70c is does try to warp, but very quickly the stresses in the material creep and fade. This I believe is why 70C is a great temp point. Any higher and parts are stiff enough while printing, and lower it doesn't fade stresses quickly enough.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/192/ 2013-09-15T22:22:16Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/36433/#p36433 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> So 70C is where ABS no longer shrinks/warps?  I thought it was higher then that for some reason..

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2694/ 2013-09-15T00:58:15Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/36366/#p36366 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> Our SD is enclosed with a cardboard box and heated via a personal space heater pointed through a hole in the side of the box. Interior temp hits 50C (this is read via the temp reading from the extruder before the extruder is heated). We also use a glass bed and hairspray. No lifting from the bed.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/356/ 2013-09-14T22:11:47Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/36355/#p36355 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> It helps to get close.  I usually run mine around 50C and that is good enough to prevent cracking in taller prints.  70C would be where you don't need to worry so much about sticking it hard to the bed.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/14/ 2013-09-14T19:39:35Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/36345/#p36345 <![CDATA[Re: Heated build chamber]]> Professional printers I have used from Stratasys all had the interior temp around 75C.

The 50c you want to do is a little low.

What's the point if your not going to hit the temp where ABS tends to stop warping?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/55/ 2013-09-14T18:33:22Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/36344/#p36344