My ABS thread was getting squeezed too much, the feeding pulley's were too tight and that was flattening a bit the filament before entering the noozle, so the output was weak and not as expected.

One thing that makes it apparent is that when starts putting a thread you can see that it doesnt come out right away, it may take a few mm before something comes off the nozzle

Hope it helps other desperate souls with the same problem

-Mat

assuming you have max feedrates that are appropriate for your printer that is !

I just have the eeprom defaults. SD3

Isn't max feed rate basically print speed? There for you would want to set it to whatever your fastest print speed is.. in my case 70mm/s for infill, so 70 for eeprom max feed rate.. in theory

No, its the max feed rate - the actual print speed is based on an acceleration vector from the X/Y or Z Jerk (E is hardcoded to 5 in firmware) to the value in max feed. For example, any 5mm moves for any axis will never reach 'max print speed' based on 1000mm/s2 acceleration (default in official firmware) and 70mm/s feedrate.

And then we get into the complexities of combined x/y acceleration.. where its actually the max feedrate of the slowest moving axis.. so if its a 30° diagonal to square line for example, its going to not accelerate to the same velocity that a 45° line will or a 90° line will...

Your printer will basically spend only about 30% of a print at 'max feedrate'....
This is why the acceleration vectors are actually far more of an influence to quality often than outright max feedrates... assuming you have max feedrates that are appropriate for your printer that is !

As per nlancaster's suggestion I set max feedrate mm/s On E :15 , all this achieved was a slower print job.

The actual result is almost identical, if I didnt number my calibrations you wouldnt know which was which.

see pic:

Isn't max feed rate basically print speed? There for you would want to set it to whatever your fastest print speed is.. in my case 70mm/s for infill, so 70 for eeprom max feed rate.. in theory

I know how you feel.  The X is much easier basically make sure the belt is snug and the Plastic block on the back is snug but not so much so that it binds.  As far as VREF's if your motors sound nice I'd leave them alone.  Unless you experience some sort of skipping.

That block mechanism was a pain. This gadget to springload the block helped a lot for me:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:214112

Any time the print head moved near the back of the bed, I was getting filament wandering all over the place because the head would rock. Adding the spring to hold the head down with more force than gravity seemed to improve my prints a lot.

wardjr wrote:

doppler wrote:

Seems this thread died without a solid solution mentioned.  I'm having a similar if not the same problem, the external perimeter on one or two edges is delaminating from the inside perimeters and when I print a hollow (no infill) cube, the first layer, which only has one perimeter the infill doesn't meet one side, and the next layers have that side inwards a bit, it's almost like the perimeter has an offset on the outside. 

Doesn't matter where I position piece on the bed.

Otherwise my SD3 is printing great...

Andrew

The "solid solution"  is calibration, lubrication and ensuring general smoothness of every moving part.  Past that adjusting VREF's on the stepper drivers may help a bit.

Thanks for the reply, it and additional infill threads pointed me to;

h t t p colon slash slash vimeo dot com slash 55031028   <-- Evidently I'm not allowed to post links.

This is for getting the Y belts right.  Now I didn't think too much of it, but the roller bar for the Y axis had fallen out during shipping to me and I had to put it back in.  So the above calibration helped a lot, in fact knock on wood, I think my infill to perimeter issue is now solved.  My circles are almost perfect... now I need to find an X calibration procedure.

I've seen the Vref pots, not entirely sure their impact on the output, yet another procedure to find...  I'm actually pretty happy with the current output, but will continue to tweak... damn ocd....

I know how you feel.  The X is much easier basically make sure the belt is snug and the Plastic block on the back is snug but not so much so that it binds.  As far as VREF's if your motors sound nice I'd leave them alone.  Unless you experience some sort of skipping.

doppler wrote:

Seems this thread died without a solid solution mentioned.  I'm having a similar if not the same problem, the external perimeter on one or two edges is delaminating from the inside perimeters and when I print a hollow (no infill) cube, the first layer, which only has one perimeter the infill doesn't meet one side, and the next layers have that side inwards a bit, it's almost like the perimeter has an offset on the outside. 

Doesn't matter where I position piece on the bed.

Otherwise my SD3 is printing great...

Andrew

The "solid solution"  is calibration, lubrication and ensuring general smoothness of every moving part.  Past that adjusting VREF's on the stepper drivers may help a bit.

Thanks for the reply, it and additional infill threads pointed me to;

h t t p colon slash slash vimeo dot com slash 55031028   <-- Evidently I'm not allowed to post links.

This is for getting the Y belts right.  Now I didn't think too much of it, but the roller bar for the Y axis had fallen out during shipping to me and I had to put it back in.  So the above calibration helped a lot, in fact knock on wood, I think my infill to perimeter issue is now solved.  My circles are almost perfect... now I need to find an X calibration procedure.

I've seen the Vref pots, not entirely sure their impact on the output, yet another procedure to find...  I'm actually pretty happy with the current output, but will continue to tweak... damn ocd....

Yes, upping the extrusion amount enough does work to fix it, but it also screws everything else up..

Like the 0P, my calibrations are spot on. Everything is lubed up. I've changed every slicer setting one bit at a time and have made hundreds of test prints. I've used 3 different filaments. I'm fully enclosed with a heater and stabilizers. My belts are perfect.

Still can't get the solid infill to touch the perimeters. Also the solid infill is not solid. It's like the solid infill doesn't extrude the lines fat enough to bond with each other. First layer is great but only because it's smushed on.

I feel like if there was a setting to lower the z height while printing solid infill to smush it down and flatten it out on layers after the first, it would fix it.

Seems this thread died without a solid solution mentioned.  I'm having a similar if not the same problem, the external perimeter on one or two edges is delaminating from the inside perimeters and when I print a hollow (no infill) cube, the first layer, which only has one perimeter the infill doesn't meet one side, and the next layers have that side inwards a bit, it's almost like the perimeter has an offset on the outside. 

Doesn't matter where I position piece on the bed.

Otherwise my SD3 is printing great...

Andrew

The "solid solution"  is calibration, lubrication and ensuring general smoothness of every moving part.  Past that adjusting VREF's on the stepper drivers may help a bit.

Doesn't matter where I position piece on the bed.

Otherwise my SD3 is printing great...

Andrew

How the hell do you use Skeinforge? What an awful mess of a program!!! I wanted to test a Slice with it but I couldnt even get started!! When I tried to just go with the defaults it moved my Z axis out of whack and ground my print head across the glass.

Back to Slicr for me for now!

lol  i looked at it also.. thought the same thing.. then thought, Gomisan is going to try it, i'll wait for him to figure it out then ask him how to use it! 

Back to Slicr for me for now!

By the way, the front left pulley block is getting bent. I have a new set of blocks, much stiffer than the stock ones, but I cannot unscrew the internal screw that keeps them in place. It doesn't seem to be neither 2.5 nor 2 mm hex screw, but a Torx T8 fits.
Are these screws glued? Any advice on how to remove them without destroying everything?

Thanks
Nick

the delrin block at the rear of the x-carriage is supposed to be 'loose' - if its too tight it can cause binding issues, so there is a as-designed play of .1 to 1mm's  in it. The only guide/support required on the stock x-carriage is the front bushings.

They designed it this way so that if the rods aren't perfectly perpendicular and square, it doesn't cause grabbing and binding.

So you may actually want to adjust some play back into it - it shouldn't flop about, but it should definately 'rock' a little teeny bit...

I adjusted all the slop out of it and so far i'm not having any binding.  Makes me wonder if i shouldn't go ahead and put on Lawsy's carriages.  but, my plan is to run it stock until something breaks.  I just did another iphone case print and again, she performed as expected.  so far i'm impressed.  Dimensionally, everything comes out as designed.  Except for the arcs.  If i get time this weekend i'll mount up some indicators and see if i can find it.  Right now it's still to buys making things.

They designed it this way so that if the rods aren't perfectly perpendicular and square, it doesn't cause grabbing and binding.

So you may actually want to adjust some play back into it - it shouldn't flop about, but it should definately 'rock' a little teeny bit...