I need to measure the temp of my bed and see what it's really at, at some point.

RavensCrest, in the pictures of your heated bed, I can't see where you put your temp sensor?

I don't like being locked out of my house

Also I added a 7mm brim and have had great results with parts in the center that are less then 2in square. 

As in I lifted the printer off of the ground trying to pull the part off.

Also any advice for getting more heat to the bed?

Also, advice for getting parts to stick better near the edges?

try a 5mm 'brim' and after the brim has been printed, dab the corners with acetone... effectively creating an acetone/ABS slurry at the corners.

Oh, okay.  I'll not do that, then.  I've been struggling with parts warping so I've been trying everything to stop that, and just got to the 'crank the bed temp up' stage.  I'll keep it under 100c.

though I will say that the stock bed has no problem reaching 110 and cycling at that. I can see the wave form for the temperature rippling up and down like it would with the extruder. That mean's it isn't staying on 100% of the time, right?

I have an enclosure, so that might be why.

110 is too much. Try 95. If it's not sticking at 95, the temperature is not not the problem.

though I will say that the stock bed has no problem reaching 110 and cycling at that. I can see the wave form for the temperature rippling up and down like it would with the extruder. That mean's it isn't staying on 100% of the time, right?

I have an enclosure, so that might be why.

ITman496 wrote:

Oh, okay.  Good to know! I was worried that I blew something up.  Thank you.

You will though if you try and push the stock bed past 100°C... it is not rated to cope with that. And you shouldn't need it either... even printing Polycarbonate you dont need to go past 100°C ....  and on the newer SD beds, it will end up causing your bed to run @ 100% duty cycle, and lead to premature death - its not really designed to run with a 100% duty cycle, but since its not particularly capable of achieving anything more than 90°C, setting it any higher will leave it 'on' all the time.. where as at 85-90°C it *should* end up with about a 60-70% duty cycle...

And going higher temps will actually cause *worse* warping and delamination.. you invariably actually want to go down in temp to get a more consistent uniform temp, as jacking the temp up will cause larger deltas across the surface as the underpowered stock bed tries to achieve what you asked of it

Great post Adrian - you're a big help here.

Oh, okay.  Good to know! I was worried that I blew something up.  Thank you.

You will though if you try and push the stock bed past 100°C... it is not rated to cope with that. And you shouldn't need it either... even printing Polycarbonate you dont need to go past 100°C ....  and on the newer SD beds, it will end up causing your bed to run @ 100% duty cycle, and lead to premature death - its not really designed to run with a 100% duty cycle, but since its not particularly capable of achieving anything more than 90°C, setting it any higher will leave it 'on' all the time.. where as at 85-90°C it *should* end up with about a 60-70% duty cycle...

And going higher temps will actually cause *worse* warping and delamination.. you invariably actually want to go down in temp to get a more consistent uniform temp, as jacking the temp up will cause larger deltas across the surface as the underpowered stock bed tries to achieve what you asked of it

Every time I try to bump it over 110C it goes crazy.  I get errors like 'MAXTEMP' and USE M999 TO TRIGGER RESET and that sort of thing in the repetier host logs.  I have a ceramic tile bed and I'm just trying to heat it up a bit more to get better adhesion.

Whenever I get this error I have to shut the printer off, unplug it, and let it cool slightly, and then reboot it and then it works.