Not during a print at all, just wondering if I have to take apart the jigsaw puzzle to change the nozzle or not, aha.

Now all I need to do is source the nuts nessisary for 2n2r5's version of the M3 Z screw slop-nut thing mod, and then get a more powerful heated bed.

Also, my printer was acting weird earlier.  Has anyone ever had their machine just like.. epic fail?  The thing would get to temp and then freak out and go TEMP ERROR CALL M999 WHEN RESET or something and then fail hard and bump the stepper endlessly into the end stop.  I rebooted it and that fixed it, but it was weird.  It kept shutting off the heaters.

The cases when I've seen that m999 error is when I am making repairs or mods to my hot end and have unplugged it.  Depending on your firmware, Marlin in my case, if you try to send a command to your printer and something gets unplugged, you get that error.  My guess is that you have a loose connection somewhere and the connection 'flickered' mid heat up.

Also, some things I've learned while using a .25 instead of my normal .35 nozzle:
- Very important to have dry filament.  You can get away with it on a .35 or larger, but as you leave filament out in the open, it will absorb moisture from the air.  This moisture is probably your #1 cause of clogs and gas pockets ruining your print.
- Filament duster, a little piece of cotton or cloth tied around the filament as it enters the extruded block will wipe off any dust from your filament before it enters the hot end.  Dust are large particles that don't really melt enough to be squeezed through that little pin hole.  If your nozzle gets clogged and absolutely refuses to unclog no matter what, you probably have dust locked in there.  This requires a disassembly and a proper cleaning to fix, not fun at all.
- The amount of time needed to print is much longer.  Not only because the output is thinner, but because (and this may depend on the extruded you are using) you have to print at a slower speed than you could with another nozzle.  The amount of back pressure the .25 adds is much higher, try to print too fast and the extruded might not have the strength or your filament will just refuse to move causing a gear shaped gouge to be dug out of your filament.
- If your filament gets a gouge dug out of it during print, it means the drive gear was not tight enough to pull the filament down.  If your filament bunches and gets twisted up, it's too tight.

EDIT: Also, I highly recommend that you get yourself a hobbled bolt or Mini hyena drive gear to extrude your filament.  This is basically a drive gear that has a filament sized groove with teeth instead of the typical regular gear drive.  This will allow you to use a tighter pressure on the filament drive block, giving an added amount of strength to the pulling power, without causing your filament to snap and break in half because the teeth went all the way through.  If you are going to use a .25 nozzle, the added strength will be a great help.

tried the treefrog 3 perimeters .3mm layers  dosent look very good... more perimeters?

oops forgot pic

gonna re do the nickel calibration

Do you mean to move the bed down.2 manually(after it homes) then level it ? to give me .06 ?

Yes, and the .06 will help your first layer squash a little.

thanks for babying me through it lol

(1)I used a thick piece of paper .14 it still looks to far away looks better, level but still have gaps in my first layer.

(2)"set bed to 8m" how do you tell z to do that?

(3)should I start a new thread I totally hijacked this one ? lol

(4)layer thickness is .41 and the taller floor is .2

(1).14mm paper you should set the bed to .2 for this proceedure

(2)to set the bed use the manual tab in Repetier-Host and hit +Z .1mm until you get to .2

(3)Yes but in help/repair/maintenance

(4) So you perimeter is .42 and your measured is .41? That sounds good to me. Is .2 supposed to be 2mm (which would be great)?

"set bed to 8m" how do you tell z to do that?

should I start a new thread I totally hijacked this one ? lol

layer thickness is .41 and the taller floor is .2

• tighten all my leveling screws a couple turns

• bring bed to home position

• set bed to .8mm

• move extruder near back middle screw

• place my ruler flat between the extruder and the bed

• loosen the back leveling until the ruler barely touches the extruder

• tighten 1/8 turn then remove ruler

• repeat this process for the other 2 leveling screws

• After you finish the last then double check to make sure the others are still good

The metal ruler makes sure that I get consistent results. You don't really need to tighten the 1/8th of a turn, in fact, if you leave it .05-.1 mm high it will help flatten that first layer and give you good adhesion on your bed. You can use anything you want as a "feeler gauge". You just need to make sure you measure it and set your height according to the size of your gauge.

.42 is default for extrusion width but check what you have and do the calculations based on that. The formula is:

(setting width/measured width)*current extrusion multiplier = New Extrusion Multplier

So assuming your current extrusion multiplier is set to 1 and the width setting is .42 then it will look like this.

(.42/.55)*1= .76 ....

Other things that I notice from the test print. I looks like you bed isn't level and your z needs to come up some still like you said. I would check those 3 things but I would say it looks pretty good otherwise.

single perimeter wall measures .55 , the tall half of the floor measures 2.35   the first layer looks like it needs to pressed down more (use z offset maybe?) other than that it looks like im over extruding?  these are just guesses on my part. open to advice on how to get this printer dialed in

Does any firmware currently support this? That would mean Extruder 1 for perimeters, and Extruder 2 for infill at only so many layers. This is an awesome concept.

Yup, and to be detailed in response:
Marlin, at the firmware level, understands multiple extruders. It doesn't care other than being told which extruder to be printing with at any point in time.
Repetier-Host/Slic3r, at the slicing/printpreprocess stages, understand multiple extruders and yes, multiple nozzle sizes. You can then assign extruders to different material types (say one loaded with HIPS for dissolveable support material) and print stages.

EDIT: Oh, and as pointed out, 250 micron nozzles come with their own unique issues... and keep in mind it doesn't need much to get blocked .. its just over the width of 2 'average' human hairs, or about the length of a dust mite... so if you are one of the people that suffer regular blockages (which for whatever reason, there seems to be a handful of users that suffer 'repeated' blockages...) at 350 micron or 400 micron, then you can be certain that 250 micron there will be no end of problems for you. If however you rarely experience a blockage, then its really just a matter of readjusting your filament multiplier and nozzle size...