<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> 2013-07-26T15:44:48Z PunBB https://www.soliforum.com/topic/3175/solidoodle-3two-questions/ <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> Post a picture ... could be anything from over extrusion or excess z-wobble or retraction settings for layer starts.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1906/ 2013-07-26T15:44:48Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/31061/#p31061 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> Thank you both. I tried different settings but nothing helped so I decided to redesign the slot to two smaller slots than one big one. I will reprint it tomorrow to see how that works out.

Do you know why don't I get smooth surfaces? All my surfaces, especially around corners have little ABS droplets, or looks like as if the layers are being merged into each other. I don't know how to explain it other than it's a "blemish" in the surfaces.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2653/ 2013-07-26T04:48:04Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/31029/#p31029 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> I attached a file that I use to test my bridging settings.

The main places to adjust your bridging controls in slic3r:

Print Settings Tab:

Speed > Speed for print moves  > Bridges = (75mm/s is default) Try to bump this up by 5 mm/s at a time

Advanced > Flow > Bridge Flow Ratio = (.75 or 75% is default) Try lowering this .05/5% at a time

If you have a G-code controlled fan on the extruder then you can alter the following:

Filament Settings Tab:

Cooling > Enable Auto Cooling = Checked
Cooling > Fan Settings > Bridges Fan Speed = (100% is default) shouldn't need to change this but feel free to expeirement

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1906/ 2013-07-25T05:21:16Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30902/#p30902 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> Under speed there is a setting for bridges.  Set that a little faster than the rest of the speeds.  In Advanced there is a field for Bridge Flow Rate.  Set that a little lower, like .8.   The idea is that you want the thread to be a little stretched over the bridge so it stays tight, especially as it cools.  Slower speed and more flow gives the plastic a chance to droop.

The other thing you can do is add a wall on the edge of the opening that is 1-2 threads thick, .42mm-.84mm.  The slicer might be smart enough to use that as a support and draw the fill across the short gap rather than a long gap.  The support wall would peel away easily when done and be less work than filling the whole space with support material.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/14/ 2013-07-25T05:07:19Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30899/#p30899 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> I can't print the part on its side. If I do so I will have more over hangs. sad

I printed the part with Support Structures but cleaning the Support Structures was more work than removing the droopy overhangs!

I am going to play with the fan speed tomorrow to see if that helps.

Can someone help me with the "bridging" settings? What's that? A link to a tutorial would be good too. smile

Thanks a bunch!

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2653/ 2013-07-25T05:01:50Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30897/#p30897 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> Adding a fan modification is your best chance. You can also play with the "bridging" settings like travel speed and flow rate in slicer.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1906/ 2013-07-24T15:44:55Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30840/#p30840 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> Yes, support will be added to all areas where there are overhangs.  You'll take a hit in cleaning it up after the fact, but it should make it a little cleaner and remove the droopy overhangs.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/129/ 2013-07-24T15:07:54Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30835/#p30835 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> johnforeman wrote:
fadilee wrote:

I tried to print a part with a long slot. The slot did not come out good because the roof of the slot collapsed into the slot's cavity. How do I prevent this from happening? Will Support Structures help? If I turn the Support Structures option on will Slic3r automatically know that the slot needs that? Please see the attached image.


Can you lay the part on its side (rotate 90) and print it?  This would avoid th e bridge for the slot.  It's hard to tell frm the picture if the part can be rotated.

Yes, print it on the side if possible.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/7/ 2013-07-24T13:17:09Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30814/#p30814 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> fadilee wrote:

I tried to print a part with a long slot. The slot did not come out good because the roof of the slot collapsed into the slot's cavity. How do I prevent this from happening? Will Support Structures help? If I turn the Support Structures option on will Slic3r automatically know that the slot needs that? Please see the attached image.


Can you lay the part on its side (rotate 90) and print it?  This would avoid th e bridge for the slot.  It's hard to tell frm the picture if the part can be rotated.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2628/ 2013-07-24T09:18:52Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30800/#p30800 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> I tried to print a part with a long slot. The slot did not come out good because the roof of the slot collapsed into the slot's cavity. How do I prevent this from happening? Will Support Structures help? If I turn the Support Structures option on will Slic3r automatically know that the slot needs that? Please see the attached image.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2653/ 2013-07-24T04:36:48Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30787/#p30787 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> ronsii wrote:
adrian wrote:
IanJohnson wrote:

There's no power button.  I plug mine into a power strip and use its switch instead.

I'm uber lazy... I use a Wireless power-plug... so now the remote is right there on my desk next to my mouse wink

When I saw you mention wireless power plug this was the first thing I thought of wink http://www.thinkgeek.com/stuff/41/wec.shtml

Yeah, I should have said 433MHz remote wink

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/663/ 2013-07-20T07:53:18Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30400/#p30400 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> adrian wrote:
IanJohnson wrote:

There's no power button.  I plug mine into a power strip and use its switch instead.

I'm uber lazy... I use a Wireless power-plug... so now the remote is right there on my desk next to my mouse wink

When I saw you mention wireless power plug this was the first thing I thought of wink http://www.thinkgeek.com/stuff/41/wec.shtml

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/296/ 2013-07-20T05:24:21Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30388/#p30388 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> Thank you both for the tips about the power button.

The printer is doing a fairly good job but I am still getting not smooth walls (full of ABS "droplets", it's like the layers are not perfectly stationed on top of each other?) Do you know how I can get smoother walls printed?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2653/ 2013-07-20T04:31:46Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30382/#p30382 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> IanJohnson wrote:

There's no power button.  I plug mine into a power strip and use its switch instead.

I'm uber lazy... I use a Wireless power-plug... so now the remote is right there on my desk next to my mouse wink

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/663/ 2013-07-18T12:30:21Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30189/#p30189 <![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3-two questions]]> There's no power button.  I plug mine into a power strip and use its switch instead.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/14/ 2013-07-18T04:55:52Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/30163/#p30163