So it definitely smoothed out most of the pitting and other artifacts of the with-oil pass, though the result is still mottled and bumpy, but they're smooth, glossy bumps.  Makes me think that it would have worked without the oil, despite the comments upthread.

This is the previous test under the same heat and exposure levels:

Bubbles appear on the bottom of this piece, but were found on the bottom, top, and middle of others.

I have a problem where the gloss effect after drying has an inconsistent wrinkled look to the texture.  Hrmmm.... maybe I should submit a pic... I think I'll go do that. 

Anyways, I'd suggest decreasing your heating time to a significantly lower amount, pulling it out of the vapor bath after45 secondish of exposure, and then letting it sit to dry...

Here's the vapor bath setup I use.  It's a canning pot with the rack for holding mason jars in place, which holds the print up out of the acetone.  I use an old circular saw blade as a base to set the print on, since the rack is too big for most items.

And here's a print I was going to smooth.  This was going to be my first "good" print to smooth, as opposed to a failed print I pulled out of the trash solely for testing.  But it was also one I could live without.

In my previous tests, the print melted enough to stick to the saw blade so firmly I almost broke it trying to pry it off, even after letting it sit for hours.  So I decided to do an experiment.  I sprayed a layer of non-stick cooking spray on the saw blade first, then set up the acetone in the pot, set the blade down on it (non-stick side up), and then put the print on top of it.  Four minutes on heat using the trusty one-burner propane cooktop on low, then let it sit for about six hours.  And...

My guess is the oil somehow got into the vapor and created this interesting speckled effect all over the entire print... except, amusingly, on the bottom surface.  Don't know how; the spray didn't get onto the print before vaporizing (it wasn't even in the room when I sprayed it).

It's an interesting look and maybe someone will think of an application where this is a positive.  It's not ideal for this nameplate, though.  I wonder what would happen if I put the same nameplate into another bath (without the non-stick spray).  I suppose there's nothing to lose by trying.

I usually don't leave mine i very long. Put enough acetone in the bottom to cover the bottom completely, put the basket in and put on the lid, turn on the heat just enough to light the lamp. waiting until you hear the evaporation happening and see the object's surface texture to change. Once the noise stops, turn off the heat and wait about 20 seconds. Then open the top, take out the basket and let it sit for an hour or so...

That's my method at least... So far, so good. I only wish the cheap presto fryer was a little taller.

How long was your exposure? Did you do it all at once or did you smooth it over several sessions. It looks really good. Some Kapton tape on the ceramic tile might help with the sticking issue...

TiM

This is the result of two "baths".  The first one was allowed to sit in the unit for about 20 minutes afte the initial boiling of acetone, which was only done for about 15 seconds.  The second bath was similar, but with the model hanging upside down.  With my current arrangement, the effect is very dependant on how far above the fluid surface it is.  After two such "baths", I allowed the model to air for about 6 hours before I began trying to separate it from the tile.  I will give the tape idea a try on the next attempt.
Anyone else try Kapton tape for this?

TiM