<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> 2013-06-29T12:50:45Z PunBB https://www.soliforum.com/topic/2989/printing-polycarbonate-on-the-solidoodle/ <![CDATA[Re: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> I didn't see a hijack. I saw a response to the original poster's question.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/46/ 2013-06-29T12:50:45Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28368/#p28368 <![CDATA[Re: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> @nlancaster : Sorry, I was trying to reply to adrian's last line in his post about a demo print by referencing someone else's contribution to thingiverse.  I see what you mean and it was unintended. 

Matt

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1122/ 2013-06-29T11:24:45Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28364/#p28364 <![CDATA[Re: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> mconsidine, your posts on this thread seem a bit like thread hijacking.  Why did you post in his thread about printing PC when your post is about an STL you posted on thingiverse?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1290/ 2013-06-29T04:24:35Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28358/#p28358 <![CDATA[Re: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> Sorry for being vague I have a bad habit of doing that. I meant sweet that he upgraded and is printing PC. Its what I want to do eventually.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2211/ 2013-06-28T22:48:45Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28323/#p28323 <![CDATA[Re: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> @MolecularConcept : not sure who's post you're referring to, but it occurred to me after-the-fact that mine might be ambiguous.  So, to be clear, that object on thingiverse is not mine - I just downloaded trimmed and sealed the bottom so that it would sit flat and closed up a few holes (as I recall).

If I could model like that I'd probably quit my day job smile

Matt

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1122/ 2013-06-28T22:34:38Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28320/#p28320 <![CDATA[Re: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> Sweet great job

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2211/ 2013-06-28T21:45:41Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28313/#p28313 <![CDATA[Re: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> I have a gargoyle that I cleaned up and slices, from this site
  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28606

I like this guy better than Yoda.  No offense to Jedi's intended ...

Matt



EDIT : Added link to STL version that I ended up with :
  http://www.considine.net/garg3_fixed.stl (6MB)

  Credit for the original goes to the above URL.  If anyone fixes/simplifies/improves this, I'd love seeing a copy.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1122/ 2013-06-28T18:15:38Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28296/#p28296 <![CDATA[Re: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> Thanks for getting me all jealous! Ha, I will hopefully be using the new hotend soon.

How is layer adhesion? Is it like ABS that when you break it , it breaks cleanly at a single layer?

I'm not too concerned about how pretty things look that are printed with it. I am planning on using it to be a work horse for me. I'd be interested in seeing it used to print a chip clip or something that is supposed to be flexible but still retain it's original shape and strength.

Would like to see an MK4 tensioner arm and extruder top made from this. Those are the 2 pieces that I have to have spares of constantly.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1906/ 2013-06-28T18:13:14Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28294/#p28294 <![CDATA[Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle]]> So I got some Polycarbonate (PC) from 3dprintergear.com.au to really give my new E3D All-Metal Hotend a workout. Note that the temps I refer to below are using both a QU-BD Silicone+Glass Bed, and the E3D.

Right up front let me say this is not possible to do on a standard SD. Whilst PC Softens from about 240°C, you need 270-300°C to get layer adhesion and quality prints. As the PEEK barrel on the standard frontend begins to fail at 255°C, you wont get near to what you need.

But assuming you too have an E3D, then you can happily print PC I'm pleased to say. Still trying to find ideal numbers...

Its tough stuff. Removing filament ooze from a cold nozzle is difficult, and destringing prints by hand is not possible. Prints are also very flexible and spring right back into shape.

However its picky about the bed temp. I couldn't get it to stick and stay stuck on tonights glass+hairspray combo unless I went to 100°C and touched up the hairspray lots. The PC seems to lift it right off the glass when removing a print. I'll try some Kapton tomorrow.

This stuff does also ooze like nothing. Runnier than PLA at the temps you want, but it prints very solidly with a rapid cooldown to solid. As a result, expect to need a very high (higher than you've thought before) retract setting. In the video below, I'm on 3mm's, and it still stringing.

Its nice and transparent, but not see through by any means - except single layers on the bed come out crystal clear. If you have ever seen lexan roofing over a patio, then its about that transmission, but not as clear due to the layers making it a bit cloudy on the vertical walls.

Now that I've almost got it working, I'll do a nice vase or something tomorrow and post the results...

(anyone have suggestions for a good 'demo' print besides yoda or pink panther woman or boring calibration boxes?)

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/663/ 2013-06-28T17:27:07Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/28290/#p28290