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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/264/" />
	<updated>2012-10-03T18:02:17Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/264/another-print-question-on-speeding-up-a-print/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/1942/#p1942" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Ian, I had completely forgotten about the light.&nbsp; You&#039;re right it will need support.</p><p>RoughTyper, I had thought of glueing idea too.&nbsp; I wanted to avoid glue just because I wanted it to be all one piece but glue is probably the quickest way to do it.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[JustSomeGuyTN]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/96/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-10-03T18:02:17Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/1942/#p1942</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/1941/#p1941" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Another idea if you want consistent texture would be to print it as 5 pieces.&nbsp; Each piece could be printed with the detail on top, and it should cut down on your run time as well.&nbsp; Glue it up at the end.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[roughtyper]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/113/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-10-03T17:55:27Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/1941/#p1941</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/1939/#p1939" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>So you are printing a Tardis lying down?&nbsp; Is the light going to be hanging out in midair?&nbsp; You might nee some support for that.&nbsp; Why not print it standing up?&nbsp; If it is lying down, the detail on the doors on top will look different from the doors on the sides.&nbsp; Their surfaces will be solid layer patterns, while the side door surfaces will be layers.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[IanJohnson]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/14/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-10-03T17:13:39Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/1939/#p1939</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/1938/#p1938" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>The problem with printing the top on the bottom is that there is a fair amount of detail on that side that I&#039;m afraid of loseing.&nbsp; The shape is a british police call box (from that show you know) with the back side open.&nbsp; The camfer idea that Ian mentioned is what I was trying to say with arch.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[JustSomeGuyTN]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/96/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-10-03T16:45:57Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/1938/#p1938</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/1937/#p1937" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Yes, though it is easier if the top edges of the box are sharp.&nbsp; If they are rounded, the overhang at the beginning of the curve might be too much.&nbsp; You can print a fillet upside down if it isn&#039;t too wide.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[IanJohnson]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/14/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-10-03T16:38:42Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/1937/#p1937</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/1936/#p1936" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Open bottom?&nbsp; Do you mean 5 sides of a box? </p><p>Could you print it with the open side up and eliminate all support material?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[roughtyper]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/113/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-10-03T16:21:25Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/1936/#p1936</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/1935/#p1935" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Are you printing at .1mm?&nbsp; Those seem like insane times, otherwise.&nbsp; You can hollow the print and put a 45 degree chamfer between the wall and the top.&nbsp; It can handle the 45 degree overhang.&nbsp; Make the chamfer deep enough that it only needs to bridge about 40-50mm across the middle when it gets to the top layers.&nbsp; Make the top at least 5-10mm thick so there are enough layers after the bridging to make an even support for the top solid layers.</p><p>Update your firmware to the latest version from Github from <a href="https://github.com/mlaws/solidoodle2-marlin/zipball/Marlin_v1">https://github.com/mlaws/solidoodle2-ma … /Marlin_v1</a></p><p>Set your external perimeters to 50, perimeters to 100, fill at 100 with line pattern, try solid fill at 80 or 100.&nbsp; The printer can go that fast, but at high speeds tends to overshoot giving you a slight blob up the corners.&nbsp; Keeping the external perimeters low will hopefully prevent that, and then let the inner loops run fast.&nbsp; Using line file gives the printer a chance to get up to speed as well.&nbsp; Go with 4 solid layers since the line fill doesn&#039;t provide as much support.&nbsp; Also when you hollow the print, keep the sides at maybe 5mm thick so it isn&#039;t trying to draw fill that is only 1mm wide.</p><p>Additionally, if you are printing .1mm layers, set fill to every 3 layers.&nbsp; &nbsp;Also run your temperature at 200-205 to help the ABS melt fast enough for extruding at high speed.&nbsp; I&#039;ve found that I can go 100 without the extruder skipping.&nbsp; You might be able to push that to 150.&nbsp; With the new firmware, the Solidoodle&#039;s speed is limited by the extruder, rather than its ability to move in X and Y.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[IanJohnson]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/14/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-10-03T16:12:13Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/1935/#p1935</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Another print question on speeding up a print]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/1929/#p1929" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I&#039;ve got an object to print that is for all intents a 5 inch long, 3inch wide, 3 inch tall hollow cube with an open bottom.&nbsp; When I first started the print the estimate I got was 32 hours.&nbsp; I changed the support material from hexagonial to rectilinear and it went down to 22 hours.&nbsp; If I put an arch inside of the cube could I eliminate the support material and drop another 10 hours off the build?&nbsp; &nbsp;Are there other things I could do to speed up the print and still get good results?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[JustSomeGuyTN]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/96/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-10-03T15:31:47Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/1929/#p1929</id>
		</entry>
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