Hairspray never worked well for me either. I didn't try the scentless Aquanet everyone uses, instead I went right to ABS glue and it worked wonders.

I didn't even realize that I use aqua net until you mentioned something. I think I just bought a value size extra hold hair spray. ha... what are the chances?

The settings for extrusion width are under Advanced in the print settings tab.  Also look under Speed of course for first layer speed.  You can also start with a lot of squish by setting the Z tab so that the bed touches the nozzle.  Keep hitting home and adjusting the screw up until you see the hotend move slightly when the bed hits home at stops. Then turn the screw back down maybe a quarter turn.  This should pretty much smear the plastic onto the bed.  If that sticks, then add another quarter turn until the layer looks flattened, but no quite smeared.

If that doesn't work, then try ABS glue.  Extrude a bunch of plastic into air and dissolve the threads into a little acetone.  The mix should be pretty thin, but with enough plastic that after you paint it onto the glass you can see a film of ABS left behind.

TiM

to: Ian Johnson

Ian Johnson QUOTE: "Software things you can try are turning up the first layer extrusion width to 150%-200% (similar to squishing with the Z tab), running the first layer hotter, and running it slower."

Sorry for my noob question Ian, but where on Repetier/SLIC3R to i adjust the extrusion width? I just want to be absolutely certain so i don't mess up 2n2r5's settings for me. Also given my printer specs do you think his settings are suitable for my situation? Not doubting 2n2r5, just want a second opinion.

Cheers.

Rex. Check the extrusion temps. I have a new hot end and I bumped mine well above normal temps. I think I sent you my default for the solidoodle hot end.

Edit: looks like you said you already did this.

Don't worry about second guessing me. It won't hurt my feelings one bit. You will find a lot of people will have advice and sometimes what works for you is completely different from what works for others.

These are my results to date:

I am still unable to get the filament to stick to the print-bed with:
- extruder temperatures of 195-205C
- print_bed temperatures of 92-93C
- immaculate clean glass
- with enclosure (link below to image of it)

I have also posted links to images of:
- my z-tab offset from extruder to bed just before the job began
- my z-tab offset from extruder to bed when it started to clump

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18 … tance.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/clumpc.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69 … rcase.jpg/

Any advice on what to do next would be much appreciated. Also comments on whether i should follow this up with the manufacturer or not? And if so which way is the best way recommended? Cheers

Ian Johnson QUOTE: "Software things you can try are turning up the first layer extrusion width to 150%-200% (similar to squishing with the Z tab), running the first layer hotter, and running it slower."

Sorry for my noob question Ian, but where on Repetier/SLIC3R to i adjust the extrusion width? I just want to be absolutely certain so i don't mess up 2n2r5's settings for me. Also given my printer specs do you think his settings are suitable for my situation? Not doubting 2n2r5, just want a second opinion.

Cheers.

reply to: 2n2r5

Thanks for the SLIC3R config.ini file. *NOTE: for those who don't know how to execute the .ini file in SLIC3R:

file > Load config... > select 2n2r5_config.ini > Open

I have changed the nozzle diametre to 0.35 in SLIC3R and have thoroughly wiped down my glass with Windex. I am assuming that the settings are suitable for ABS 1.75mm. I am about to test your settings out and will post results and images or image links shortly.

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reply to: ronsii

I am using all Solidoodle supplied ABS 1.75mm filament which i ordered with my printer. urls are a good idea, i shall do that if it takes too long for 10 posts.

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reply to: Ian Johnson

Thankyou for the clarification. I did the 'z-tab home adjustment', with the metro card height. I think i got the two mixed up. Because i could not test my bed level because the filament would not stick to the bed in the first place. I have just adjusted the z-tab home distance to a 'metrocard' distance between the bed and the extruder.

I was wondering if there is a difference between the 'z-tab home' distance and the 'printing distance' between the bed and nozzle? -----------> because the 'printing distance' seems to be further away than that of a 'z-tab home' distance.

Software things you can try are turning up the first layer extrusion width to 150%-200% (similar to squishing with the Z tab), running the first layer hotter, and running it slower.

And if you could post some pics of what it is doing that would be great you will have to get 10 posts before the forum will let you attach pics but you can hide url's in the post if you upload some pics to a pic site.