<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> 2013-05-10T12:26:01Z PunBB https://www.soliforum.com/topic/2256/issues-with-01-mm-printing-and-infill/ <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> Thanks for posting those images.  Is the Plastruct used the same way as the acetone?
Matt

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1122/ 2013-05-10T12:26:01Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22367/#p22367 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> A comparison:

No finishing done:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/wmfootball75/PhotoMay0951729PM.jpg

Plastruct Bondene: (Light Coat)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/wmfootball75/PhotoMay0951716PM.jpg

Presto Finished:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/wmfootball75/PhotoMay0951738PM.jpg

All parts: (Left to Right: Plastruct, Presto, Unfinished)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/wmfootball75/PhotoMay0951752PM.jpg

The Plastruct seems like a happy medium between unfinished and presto finished.  It keeps details while still "melting" some features that might be undesirable (on this model that would be the flat parts that show lines more obviously)

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1119/ 2013-05-10T02:52:22Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22333/#p22333 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]>

I'm just afraid of nuking these 0.1 mm prints with acetone if I'm not careful!

Haha, I know what you mean.  We overcooked a few of the pieces with warmer vapors and they tended to warp, but most of them were perfectly fine.  But I was totally new to the process at that time.

Since you are in a hurry to finish these parts, it might be better to go with your Plastruct solution at first.  But I do recommend taking a bit of time to develop a good Presto process for the future.  Once you have tested a few different parts and pin down the numbers (amount of acetone, time to cook, when to put it in) it is a very consistent and reliable approach.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/712/ 2013-05-09T15:24:43Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22267/#p22267 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> I've been debating on whether or not to smooth them (I have a presto cooker and whatnot) or to use a different solvent that I used to use on 3D parts called Plastruct Bondene.

I've already used it on one of the "ore" pieces and it actually works much like acetone by softening the part enough to smooth it out while also making it glossy.  It's main use is to bond ABS parts much like superglue, but it has the consistency of acetone (it's really a great product for this use because it bonds similar to how wood glue does) I'm tempted to just do this for all of the parts because it allows for a more controlled application.  (Note: This chemical is still just as harmful as acetone and should be treated in much of the same manner regarding safety precautions)

I can try to take a picture comparing the untreated vs. treated tomorrow in the sunlight to show you what I mean.  I'm just afraid of nuking these 0.1 mm prints with acetone if I'm not careful!

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1119/ 2013-05-09T03:07:40Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22222/#p22222 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> I love the 3D Catan set on Thingiverse!  I printed out a whole set, and my wife added some really cool paint details to bring them to life.  We played a game with them and our friends loved it. 

If you have the Presto Cooker, I would recommend some light acetone smoothing.  It worked well for us.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/712/ 2013-05-08T21:27:47Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22197/#p22197 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> He just got into it, but he's been playing quite a bit over the last few weeks (he's in college so he plays with his friends in their free time).  He showed me how to play a few days ago, and I really liked it.  I'm going to have to make myself a set sometime soon.  I'm starting now on the brick pieces and hoping to do 3 of them in one shot on my SD3.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1119/ 2013-05-08T21:01:40Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22193/#p22193 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> Nice!

He a Catan junkie?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/129/ 2013-05-08T20:01:16Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22186/#p22186 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> op7ical wrote:

Boz, in your slicing profile, do you have it set to infill every 3 layers?  This is default in the Solidoodle 0.1mm profile.  If it is set this way, try changing it to infill on every layer.  This might give better support to the top-most layers.  Try the Trek insignia out again if this change is made.

I actually had it set to every 3 layers, which I've now gone back and changed to your recommendation.  I appreciate it!  I will have to try the model again after I'm done printing some birthday presents for my brother.

mr_tim34 wrote:

I'm no expert, just learning myself, but the infill grid on your octopus doesn't look like 30% infill, at least that's not what I get. My grid on a 20% Infill is about 1.5mm squares. Maybe I'm not getting the scale right, but in relationship to the keyboard you grid looks much closer to what I get at 10% infill. Of course I've only printed at .3mm layers to date, but I wouldn't expect that to affect the infill grid.
TiM.

I think that this as well as op7ical's suggestion might have been what did the octopus in (he was my first 0.1 mm print as well).  Since then I've used around 50% infill and infill every 1 layer and have gotten fantastic results.

Thank you all for your very helpful suggestions.  I'm hoping to learn what I can and help anyone else who may need it in the future.

Here's the present I mentioned for my brother (don't tell him!) printed at 0.1 mm with 50% infill every 1 layer:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/wmfootball75/PhotoMay0781721PM.jpg

I might need to look at some calibration on flow rate.  I noticed that on the outside edges the extrusion lanes aren't quite touching enough to make a solid surface.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/1119/ 2013-05-08T19:50:06Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22184/#p22184 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> ysb wrote:

you know that the 0.9.9 final is already out ?

Frontpage of slic3r.org says:

Slic3r 0.9.9 is out!

Many new features, including a new simple mode, raft and the ability to use multiple layer heights in the same print, and optimizations for printers with Bowden extruders. And, of course, LOTS more.

Read the full release notes

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/871/ 2013-05-08T18:22:42Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22179/#p22179 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> you know that the 0.9.9 final is already out ?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/40/ 2013-05-08T18:18:09Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22177/#p22177 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> Ohh yes I am having the same issue.  I had people tell me I need fan cooling (which may help a small amount)  There is a well documented thread on the slic3r github forum

github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/864

The only solution I have seen so far is to increase infill  sad

Edit:
Further research shows this may be fixed in Slic3r 0.9.9-dev
github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/970

I will grab it this week and see if I can get it to work.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/871/ 2013-05-08T17:51:36Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22175/#p22175 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> I had the same issue that the OP had, and noticed that when doing the top layers Slic3r doesn't consider it a bridge and uses the perimeter speed settings. I'm not sure if it was just the specific model I was using, but it didn't change speed at all, so I lowered the perimeter speed and it helped bridge a lot of those gaps (granted they drooped, but it's getting covered up anyway), but it took longer for the prints obviously. I haven't experimented with different infill types so I can't help you there.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/642/ 2013-05-08T00:49:23Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/22051/#p22051 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> I'm no expert, just learning myself, but the infill grid on your octopus doesn't look like 30% infill, at least that's not what I get. My grid on a 20% Infill is about 1.5mm squares. Maybe I'm not getting the scale right, but in relationship to the keyboard you grid looks much closer to what I get at 10% infill. Of course I've only printed at .3mm layers to date, but I wouldn't expect that to affect the infill grid.

TiM

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/891/ 2013-05-04T07:35:26Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/21726/#p21726 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> Boz, in your slicing profile, do you have it set to infill every 3 layers?  This is default in the Solidoodle 0.1mm profile.  If it is set this way, try changing it to infill on every layer.  This might give better support to the top-most layers.  Try the Trek insignia out again if this change is made.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/712/ 2013-05-04T00:47:45Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/21705/#p21705 <![CDATA[Re: Issues with 0.1 mm printing and Infill]]> are those areas in the star trek model. Infilled below as well under the slope? or just the walls. I have done slopes and chamfers all similar even up from 0-70degrees with no problems. 30% infill 3 maybe 4 top layers. (0 being vertical wall 70 degrees being almost flat horizontal.) all with no support.

But I have noticed your condition especially on my base layer now as I approached my spool end. so I think you shoul look at

check filament width and extrusion again
check speeds too could be to fast with too little coming out.

On the octopus. First thing jumps out is that head will never print with no support. and if you are using full solid infill (doesn't appear to be) your spacing is set too high.

Hope that helps

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/251/ 2013-05-02T20:19:05Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/21616/#p21616