ysb, you on http://flattr.com/ ?

I don't know this system.. thanks for the link.. i will look into it... and thanks again for your donation

adjusting the coding to stepper motor is for "all days operation"

the slider are for "this time only i want a special speed/flowrate" ...

but if you are ok with your slider choice (let say "flowrate 90%") you can adjust your eeprom value at 90% for the setting to stay...

slic3r do it automatically... depending of your printer settings, you can adjust the flowrate with the second slider on the manual setting screen in real time [the first one is for the speed..]

Yea, I've seen those sliders.  Just didn't know with there was another "better" way of doing it.  Also I read on here somewhere about adjusting the coding to stepper motor to adjust the flow.  I was just curious of your method.

I've yet to calibrate my flow rate.  Its pretty darn close, if not perfect, I believe... but it is on my to-do list. 

Thanks.

...i also print at half the standard speed... it help but take a lot more time [14h print..instead of 7].....

When you reduced the speed rate did you have to reduce the flow rate as well?  If so, does slicer do that automatically or did you have to figure it up yourself?

Thanks

then i have banding on the last two inchs of the print... i think that when the bed is near the floor of the printer [last two inchs ], the z screw is less free to move and force the bed to move on the horizontal plane.
i also use the classic anti backlash nut..AND my z screw is one of the first model with the ABS coupler... when solidoodle send me the new 'hard' screw without coupler, the problem of wobble was a lot more horrible..

i also print at half the standard speed... it help but take a lot more time [14h print..instead of 7]..

until the last version of slic3r [0.9.9], i used kissclicer... but now i came back to slic3er as the new function [avoid crossing perimeter - in the -layer and perimeter- screen] is fantastic and help a lot for a good print..it's a pity that slic3r is a lot slower than kissclicer and a bit more sensible on the geometry quality...

One thing I noticed is that you have almost no banding at all on your print.  How did you achieve such smooth print?  I tried to eliminate the banding on my prints but I'm not having any luck.

Also, what did you use to slice the model with?

this is it the huntress is now online
http://www.makershop.co/shop/fantasygra … e-huntress

i took me more time that i thought to correct the problem of the bow.. but now it's ok (..yes i know... why on earth did she put her bow near this little branch... )

i used a little bit of extruded filament to make the bowstring that i stuck with acetone

happy printing all

I was looking at the latest picture you posted and wondered how in the world you got that bow string to print so well... Lol.  I had to go back over the thread to see if you mentioned.  I'm glad you did, cause I would still be dumbfounded.  Awesome print!

DesignerFred wrote:

Awsome work! Congradulations.... What material and settings did you use for the print, looking very refined...

thanks

the white is a digital render in zbrush..

for the yellow and orange one, it's standard ABS in 0.2mm layer.

Thumbs up, thanks for the response.

Awsome work! Congradulations.... What material and settings did you use for the print, looking very refined...

thanks

the white is a digital render in zbrush..

for the yellow and orange one, it's standard ABS in 0.2mm layer.