carl_m1968 wrote:

Testing if the computer is the issue or not is very easy. Just print the file live over USB which you should not do. Then print the same file, same settings, from an sdcard. Still didn't see if you checked to confirm the reported temp was correct or not.

and why, pray tell, should you not do so??
I have been printing that way since I started, I don't foresee changing that any time soon, and I don't have any problems doing so.

And Ski.. you should turn your computer off if it is not being used.. there is NO reason to leave it on 24/7 anymore, and has not been any reason to do so since at least Win98.

If you are running windows 10 and you have let it update then you are now to the point that you can no longer control when it updates and when it restarts. If it restarts while the printer is running it can cause that USB port to reset. On some printer logic this will lock the controller up resulting in no longer monitoring temps and the heaters on full. Thermal runaway will not work since the logic is not running and the things will heat up and continue to do so till something burns. A hotend heater if allowed to can reach temps that will melt an aluminum heat block. I used to print over USB as well until Win10 has screwed me a few times. Once resulting in a new hotend.

Testing if the computer is the issue or not is very easy. Just print the file live over USB which you should not do. Then print the same file, same settings, from an sdcard. Still didn't see if you checked to confirm the reported temp was correct or not.

and why, pray tell, should you not do so??
I have been printing that way since I started, I don't foresee changing that any time soon, and I don't have any problems doing so.

And Ski.. you should turn your computer off if it is not being used.. there is NO reason to leave it on 24/7 anymore, and has not been any reason to do so since at least Win98.

Well, to make all think about it again, this is what happens after - "...screw it, shut everything off, (I normally never shut the computers off), go to Wally World and fight with that crowd, come home, drink a beer or 3, turn it all on again, touch nothing and mash "PRINT"...

I really think 95% of my problems are caused by a 7-8 year old copy of Winbloz.  Need to dump it and start over, reinstall, not upgrade.  I'm getting a lot of little nit-noid problems, like the phone giving me 10 - 15 error msgs, and it aint even plugged in, and I cannot convert any type of graphic file to a jpeg from any program - 'unable to create file'??  The list goes on.

Oh, it may not look it, but that is a glass bed.  I put it over the original padding that was in between the magnetic pad and the base and if you notice there are no clips holding it in place - it aint coming off...

I've had the Anycubic pair for almost a week, all I can tell ya is they light up.  Aint used them yet.

Sorry to be so long winded...

Testing if the computer is the issue or not is very easy. Just print the file live over USB which you should not do. Then print the same file, same settings, from an sdcard. Still didn't see if you checked to confirm the reported temp was correct or not.

I really think 95% of my problems are caused by a 7-8 year old copy of Winbloz.  Need to dump it and start over, reinstall, not upgrade.  I'm getting a lot of little nit-noid problems, like the phone giving me 10 - 15 error msgs, and it aint even plugged in, and I cannot convert any type of graphic file to a jpeg from any program - 'unable to create file'??  The list goes on.

Oh, it may not look it, but that is a glass bed.  I put it over the original padding that was in between the magnetic pad and the base and if you notice there are no clips holding it in place - it aint coming off...

I've had the Anycubic pair for almost a week, all I can tell ya is they light up.  Aint used them yet.

Sorry to be so long winded...

also verify there are no issues with the model itself... stranger things have happened.

could still be a wiring issue within the bundle going to the printhead. broken strands of wire inside the insulation do weird things

and last, but not least.. Material - where are you getting your filament from? Cheap materials are known to cause problems..

one last note - not really related to the issue at hand... stop printing in the exact same place on the bed every single time.. move the model to different areas of the bed before slicing. depending the print surface being used, it can wear the surface out in one area.. for best wear, you need to use all areas of the bed equally.

Well... things were going along fine - just too fine I guess.  I'm printing letters for who knows what for the little girl across the street.  You can see by the pic, I hope, other letters and a few others not in the pic are OK, in fact good.  It started this krap earlier.  This is 2 perimeters and layer 1.  It hits the corners and sounds like a plugged nozzle, and then moves on to the straight runs.  I have run a length of cleaning filament thru it til clear, and the purple is the third roll of PLA I've tried.  Have tried temps from 185 - 220, all the same.  It had a thorough cleaning yesterday and a new nozzle.  Printed 4 letters yesterday and 1 this morning before this happened.  There are no changes to anything other than filament between the good and the bad.

Repetier is not happy either... I get a string of: 
X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count X:0 Y:0 Z:0

Then I get bout 15 - 20 of
echo: too long extrusion prevented

I did get an Anycubic resin printer and Wash and Cure thing I'll post about when I figure out more about it.

Have you confirmed what the actual hotend temp is? Many printers can display by as much as 30 degrees off. You need to get like a digital cooking thermometer or similar high temperature thermometer and actually measure your hotend at a set temp and see what it is. You also need to run an auto PID at print conditions. Layer fans. room fans, and so on need to be how they would be during a print. An IR no touch thermometer will not work for this.

Repetier is not happy either... I get a string of: 
X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00 Count X:0 Y:0 Z:0

Then I get bout 15 - 20 of
echo: too long extrusion prevented

I did get an Anycubic resin printer and Wash and Cure thing I'll post about when I figure out more about it.

hardest part is some of the connectors need to be changed.. like the thermistors and endstops - everything else has screw terminals.

do keep in mind, it was over 6 yrs ago that i did the 1st one.. and at that time, there were not as many options as there are now.

but I am quite happy with the Rumba, been a good board

I agree somewhat but I may have to argue some there.  I've been printing 10 - 14 hours a day for almost a week and no errors what-so-ever.  I've changed nothing in the computer. Some how, I believe the printer was causing the commo disrupt error.  I don't get the Samsung phone error either.  The print quality seems noticeably better also, I have no idea how, but I did unplug and replug just about every wire in the thing.
At any rate, I really need to save whatever I have that is any good and blitz this entire version of winbloz.  Besides it being an original install 7 - 8 years ago, Windows Insider has a beta copy of Win 11.  So it won't be long before we have another nightmare to try and deal with. 
What did you replace your Printrboards with, and was it much grief.  I still have the Doodle and a new motherboard that I can get it and the printer to light up, but that's it.  Told ya me and Arduino do not get along.

mintemp errors were most likely caused by the bad thermistor

communication errors are most commonly caused by usb issues.. so i would not rule them out & "fixed" completely just yet.
new usb cable might resolve things if they come back... and worst case scenario is the usb port on the printer might be going south. This is what happened to my original SD4 with the stock Printrboard. I had to replace the board on that one, and went with something better when i did.

Carl Wrote:
Make sure the thermistor is tight and has not worked loose. Same for heat cartridge. While heating move heater wires around and see if temp changes. Is there a draft or open window. Are you running the layer fan higher than normal? When was the last time you ran an auto PID?

Looks like you found the issue !!!!

You could upgrade to one of these
https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/ … -for-cr-10

When I got the thermistor screw out, you could see some 'leakage' on both sides, probably indicative of shorting to ground.  Also the heater wires look a little 'crunchy'.   
I did what Heartless suggested - ran it to 191 and steered it all around the build platform - no problem. 
I'm done with scooching with this, I just ordered a handful (3) of 24V 40W heaters and thermistors from Amazon for 9.00.  Be here tomorrow.

More later...