Been schooching with filaments and settings all week.  Inadvertently kept all my Print Settings to one heading - 15% Infill .  Was looking at some of the other headings.  Got 2 new rolls of filament from Amazon.  Just unwrapped one and set it to 1.75 (I measured) and 1.0.  Mistakenly, I left the Print Settings at 20% Infill - all SD settings.  I ran the PLA at 200/65 and this is what I got...

Can't ask for too much better - little  over extrusion on the bottom 3 layers- I'll set the multi to 0.96 or 98.  I have tried to print the test cube with another 4 or 5 rolls and almost every setting I can do and still come up with a wall thickness of 0.32 or 33.

The second roll I got from Amazon, I guess I didn't look too good, it's PETG...  Try that later.

have you sorted out your issue .

NO.
I have been busy with all of the lousy weather this past week.  It rained all day today, musta got 6+ inches.  My pool looks like an infinity pool, which it aint.  So, tomorrow, I get to spend 40 - 50 on pool chemicals...never quits. 
I have managed to get some almost acceptable prints using PLA.  Lot of fine tuning to go.  I find a lot of  settings I never really bothered with with the SD make a noticeable difference with the Ender.  I have built a toy bin for the 3 year old across the street and want colors for her name, and stars, etc on some of the wood.  Most of the colors I have are in ABS.  I can get 8 - 10 layers of ABS before it starts shooting filament everywhere.  And in both PLA and ABS whatever I set my horizontal shell to is shifted by about 4mm to the right, the rest of the print in PLA anyway is OK just the base is offset.   I can't really find a working cure for that. 
I bought a self leveling thingie, why?  I have no idea.  I guess I needed a few more complications to my daily routine.  I need a firmware upgrade to the latest with the BL Touch.  I seem to have gotten an 'older' board.  Mine is V1.1.4.  Everywhere I've looked the D/L's are for 1.1.6 -  .8 -.9 and then it goes into the 4.x.x series. 
I can live without that for a while.  I really need a fix for printing ABS.  I have seen folks claiming good prints without an enclosure.  An enclosure for this thing might be like putting it into a closet.  I have tried 4 rolls of ABS at temps 230 - 245, bed at 85 - 100.  And still I'm getting corner warp and after 8 - 10 layers - spider web.  I guess I should drop the glass and go back to the pad thingie.....
I may look into a newer motherboard, but you already know my MB probs.  Speak of that I still will pay for a viable copy of Marlin that will run my SD.  Nuff for now, I could go on, but...

I asked Tin Falcon for a copy of his working Ender 3Pro settings, but haven't heard yet

Hmm checked my pm folder nothing and did not see in this post where you asked.
I will try to get you good settings. do not recall what i sliced last. and do not want to send a bunch of old useless junk as part of a profile package.
ender typically sends test prints as g code.   Usually test prints from the manufacture are pretty good.

If you open the configuration page for sic3r . go to file there is an import configuration from g code. this should give near perfect settings .

The test model is again the same one I have used for every spool of filament I have calibrated over 7 years.  It is a 4-sided hollow box, no top or bottom 25mm square, 10 mm tall.  Wall thickness controlled by the extrusion.  I was gonna enclose a copy, but it's on the other machine that is tied up rite now trying to salvage somebodies '...oops, formatted drive C.' hard drive.  I know you're probably getting tired of hearing - I did this for 7 years, I did that for 7 years....I am a lazy believer in that if it aint broke....  I know the settings for the SD were at least 'good' cuz I made a fair amount of $$ with the prints over the time. 
Now, Carl... how do I find these Ender groups?  My son is the FB user.  I dabble around some, but really have little or no idea how to get what I want off of FB.  I asked Tin Falcon for a copy of his working Ender 3Pro settings, but haven't heard yet.  Really don't care what software I have to use, I'll learn it!
I just D/L a new copy of RH for the IMac. My old working copy evidently was no good since Mac went to 'only' 64 bit software, in fact my old working copy and all of it's data is gone as are quite a few other programs I had that aren't compatible with the latest 'forced upon you' upgrade.  So I have a clean, untouched copy of RH I will putz with tomorrow, I hope.

Once again - Thanx everyone!

Just go to Facebook, click the search box then type in Ender 3 group, Ender Group, maybe Creality Group.

Here is one,

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ender3e … ocreality/

Once again - Thanx everyone!

the model should be a solid cube then use the settings to set 1 perimeter, no top, no infill, etc

if you are using a model with specified wall thicknesses this will not work.

Wall size, best I could measure 0.31.  This was using my older white PLA at 1.72/1.0 - should have overextruded.  Changed filament again.  All of mine is a year or better old, kept in airtight containers with desiccant packets - lots of them.  A small amount (~5M) of white PLA came with the machine - it came out to 1.73.  So, everything the same cept new filament 1.73/1.0 and I got this...

Wall = 0.30.   If you look while it's printing, the last few layers, the extruder is noticeably above the print just dropping filament on it.   There is supposed to be 3 loops of skirt also.   
There is another thing I need to try later - the manufacturer seems to want you to print from an SD card. Create your STL file on your choice of slicer and dump it to an SD card.  I am running directly, by USB cable, off the computer.  I wonder if the printer is overriding some of the RH settings.  Who has the software priority, the printer or the computer?   I went away from the SD card cuz I tried to print from the factory one, and it wouldn't.  I've read there have been probs with the factory SD card files.   
Tin, if you read this, would you mind terribly either e-mailing or posting a copy of your settings in whatever slicer you are using? 
Again, thanx for the help - I WILL get this infernal contraption working...!!!

and get rid of that 15% overlap setting.. if things are done right, you do not need it. Mine is set to zero and I have no issues at all.

as for the multiplier - that should ALWAYS be YOUR calculated numbers, not mine.
And to be perfectly honest.. multiplier should 'typically' be in the 0.9 to 1 range.. 0.55 is REALLY low - suggests massive over-extrusion to me.
over 1 is not common either.. i have one filament that is in the high 0.8 range.. but it is only the one..

I copied your documentation verbatim. You show an example dia of 1.73 with a multiplier of 0.92.  I have at least one roll of glow in the dark at 1.70  with a multiplier of 0.55.  And I know that printed well.  On the other hand, I have a roll of ABS at 1.81 with a multi of 0.657.  I have numerous rolls at 1.75 with multipliers of noticeably less than the ideal 1.0, but none of the SD 26 listings I have used are over 1.0.  It's just a point, I never really took note.
I'll try some ABS today, but I gotta cut grass first, it's knee deep after all the rain.

Retraction speed currently set to 40mm/s default.  Will set it to 30.