I can post the files if you'd like to look at them  It retains the same layout as the original.  My carriage is a custom design; I'm utilizing dual E3D Titans feeding an E3D Chimera...unless you're using the same setup, it won't be of much use to you.

It's great to have the MegaDoodle going again!  I'm now refining my settings; trying to get faster print speeds while preventing ringing or ghosting.

-Kevin

justsomeguy wrote:

I assumed the three motor idea was to have the motors independently controlled so he could have true auto bed leveling. Because what they call auto-levelling in firmware these days is really assistance with manual levelling or compensation for out of level is it not?. There is no mechanism to actually level the bed.

There is actually. At least with Smoothieware there is. It is a form of active real time leveling during printing.

Smoothie will use a probe either RF, touch, or proximity to map the bed  before each print. It does this by dividing the bed up into 16, 24, or 36 sections depending on the bed size. It will then probe the center of each of the points and store the height of that position in regards to the known zero height which is usually the center height for ease of reference.

Then during printing it will actually raise or lower the print height the needed height to compensate for the plus or minus in bed height for that zone of the bed the head is currently in. This means for one layer there will be many micro adjustments in Z height as the print head moves through the various mapped zones of the bed.

This leveling scheme only works with true 32Bit processors such as what smoothieboards have and I believe the duet has as well. It requires to much math and fast calculations for a RAMPS or similar board to pull off.

The feature you describe is what I was referring to as out of level compensation. It's compensating for an out of level bed, not changing the level of the bed. Still, it's a very cool feature.

I assumed the three motor idea was to have the motors independently controlled so he could have true auto bed leveling. Because what they call auto-levelling in firmware these days is really assistance with manual levelling or compensation for out of level is it not?. There is no mechanism to actually level the bed.

There is actually. At least with Smoothieware there is. It is a form of active real time leveling during printing.

Smoothie will use a probe either RF, touch, or proximity to map the bed  before each print. It does this by dividing the bed up into 16, 24, or 36 sections depending on the bed size. It will then probe the center of each of the points and store the height of that position in regards to the known zero height which is usually the center height for ease of reference.

Then during printing it will actually raise or lower the print height the needed height to compensate for the plus or minus in bed height for that zone of the bed the head is currently in. This means for one layer there will be many micro adjustments in Z height as the print head moves through the various mapped zones of the bed.

This leveling scheme only works with true 32Bit processors such as what smoothieboards have and I believe the duet has as well. It requires to much math and fast calculations for a RAMPS or similar board to pull off.

However, I'm always interested to see what 2n2r5 gets up to. His threadless ballscrew design drives two of my printers z-axis
to this day though people would swear up and down at the time that it was not a good method.

Thanks, and I just pulled my old bed apart and the threadless ballscrew is still solid. I though that it would have yielded over time. Neat to hear someone still enjoying success with it.

With three independently driven motors and a probe, it could literally level itself. An actual physical self-leveling system would be innovative would it not?

Personally I still think it's the wrong direction. Aim to build a printer that can be manually levelled and then stays level is how I would go.

However, I'm always interested to see what 2n2r5 gets up to. His threadless ballscrew design drives two of my printers z-axis
to this day though people would swear up and down at the time that it was not a good method.

carl_m1968 wrote:

I like to build and experiment as much as the next guy, but I prefer using already tried an true methods and I don't feel a need to reinvent the wheel.

This is the Hacks & Mods section of the forum ...

Hacks and mods usually consist of add ons that modify the current purpose or performance. Adding three steppers to the Z platform adds no performance boost nor does it change it's purpose since you are simply doing what one or two motors can already do.

Understand  I am not knocking your idea. I am simply pointing out in my opinion it is a useless effort and waste of time and resources that could be better spent on another part of the printer that could actually use improvement. You did say you wanted to bump ideas and not all ideas will agree with yours.

Things like the print head could be improved. If you want to use flexible filament you will not be able to use effectively a bowden set up. So you might want to consider a print head that allows swapping between a bowden and direct drive setup.

Another issue is power. I am not sure that even a 24 volt supply would be able to get a hotend to your required 400 degrees and maintain it over the time of an entire print. You may need to look into a 48 volt system which is going to then require DC to DC converters to step down the voltage for the steppers and logic.

I like to build and experiment as much as the next guy, but I prefer using already tried an true methods and I don't feel a need to reinvent the wheel.

This is the Hacks & Mods section of the forum ...

I think 2n2r5 is trying to do a little innovating - looking at things from a different perspective, which is a good thing.
Whether or not it actually works remains to be seen, but my curiosity has been raised.

LOL, the SD4 uses this configuration.. yes, the Z guide rods are 10mm on it... so yeah.. not much new there.

The FT-5 uses 4 guide rods and 2 lead screws for its 12"x12" bed platform.. the 1st generation used 2 motors - one for each side but there were issues with one motor being slightly out of sync with the other, even tho both were run from the same stepper driver..
In a relatively short time, they switched to a single motor driving both screws.
Even the massive new FT-6 uses a single motor for the bed assembly..

carl_m1968 wrote:

heartless wrote:

still not really convinced of the need of 3  Z motors, but will wait and see how things progress.

in the original logo, the "Soli" part of Solidoodle is a completely different font... so in keeping with that...

and knowack.. since the workbench is so much larger, what about "Megadoodle"?
LOL

Sounds like an 80's porn star....

I meant to report for harassment but since you were so mean I guess I'm going to have to retaliate. It's obviously not about the size, it's about how you abuse it. No one can abuse it like I do!

so, take that you heartless something something. (wow that was weak)

In all seriousness, well done Knowack! I know how hard the upgrades are. When you get to the point that the machine is no longer recognizable as what it use to be. That is an impressive/exhausting feat. Cheers all around. Now Heartless, tell me what I can do to improve my design. I know you have issues, but I want to know how to over come those issues!

Edit: I want to make it clear that I am not the person in the above photo! In "real life", I appear to give more shits while simultaneous;y caring less. JK, every comment that is negative take 3 years off my life. Be kind, rewind!

Not sure if you are joking or serious, but I was joking. Guess I just have a toilet sense of humor and others are less. To me everything is a dirty joke or can be made into one.. Life is just more fun and humorous that way.

Back on topic, I like to build and experiment as much as the next guy, but I prefer using already tried an true methods and I don't feel a need to reinvent the wheel. I will use what has been proven to work. In fact I use only one motor and screw but very heavy 10mm guide rods and an all aluminum build platform with a magnetic glass bed.

so, take that you heartless something something. (wow that was weak)

LOL, not sure if I should be offended, or LMAO at this point. =P

but back to the main topic...

not convinced on the need of 3 motors for Z axis..
three Z screws, yeah, maybe... but 3 motors?

keeping 2 motors in sync can be a struggle - 3 could become a nightmare.

But, hey, i am open to new ideas.. convince me!

Look, I don't set out to convince anyone. What I do want is to redefine what is possible and what is acceptable. BUT! if that is wrong, why waste my time or yours? I just want to know why so I don't do it again.

I feel like that is a fair trade of progress for process. I will do my best to report what/why things aren't working. I just want people to rack their magnificent brains to figure out how to make things work.

so, take that you heartless something something. (wow that was weak)

LOL, not sure if I should be offended, or LMAO at this point. =P

but back to the main topic...

not convinced on the need of 3 motors for Z axis..
three Z screws, yeah, maybe... but 3 motors?

keeping 2 motors in sync can be a struggle - 3 could become a nightmare.

But, hey, i am open to new ideas.. convince me!