Thanks again for those that have given their inputs during this.  Maybe this will help someone else.  I recommend this box only be checked during special use cases only.

I do have some additional insight that may help diagnose my issue.  Let’s say I’m printing a cylinder with a square window in its side.  When he nozzle is printing a layer without the widow opening in it, it prints a perfect layer, no issues.  Now, it has to print the layer with the opening.  The first part of the layer prints perfectly.  When it gets to the opening it retracts the filament, moves to the other side of the window and extrudes the filament again.  From there on, the rest of that entire layer has these blobs in it, like the nozzle is extruding extra spits of material, bubbles, something, for the rest of that entire layer.  NOW, the Z-axis moves down.  The nozzle then starts printing the next layer.  That layer starts printing perfectly, AND will continue to print that way until the nozzle has to retract and move-extrude again then the blobbing continues again.  My question....?  What happens special during the Z-axis move to the next layer?  This seems to somehow Re-set the issue and after that the print continues normally.  If I can figure this out, maybe it will help somehow?

During my tests temperature, retraction settings, PLA-ABS, speed, all seem to make no difference.  I almost exclusively use 3D Solutech filament and use new rolls for testing.  I use Simplify3D as my slicing software and have used the exact settings as someone else on another board with a Davinci Pro 1.0 with an original E3d with no acceptable results.  My original extruder gears were worn so I replaced them with an SIQUK M8 all aluminum upgrade that seems to work great, (no popping and slipping), with the same results.

For an example, for one test my settings were, PLA- extrusion multiplier .90, extrusion width - auto, retraction distance 2.0mm, extra restart distance -.60mm, retraction vertical lift 0mm, retraction speed 20mm/sec, coasting at end .10mm, layer height .20mm, outline direction - outsidein, tempurature 235C, speeds 35mm/s, only retract when crossing over spaces checked, force retraction between layers not checked, only wipe extruder for outermost perimeters checked, avoid crossing outline for travel movements checked, non-manifold segment checked heal.

How long has this spool of filament been out of the sealed plastic bag. Also unless your wall is made of a single layer which it should not be, the printer will not stop at one side of the window and jump to the other side. Instead most walls are composed of 2 perimeters minimum usually more. The print will begin the perimeter either inside or outside. When it gets to the window it will simply make a turn at the window and continue to create the opposite perimeter all the way around the object till it get to the windows other side where it will simply turn back to the opposite side. Once that layer which is a continuous loop is finished the bed will drop on layer and the process will repeat.

Now as for your retraction settings, they are fine for a direct drive but yours is not direct drive so the you have to account for flex inside the feed tube and increase your settings due to lag caused by this flex. To give you and example. I use direct drive and my distance is 1.80 and my speed is 80. Your should be three to four times more due to be a bowden setup. My coast is also 5.0. Your non-print movement speeds need to be raised to 150 to 300mm/sec.

During my tests temperature, retraction settings, PLA-ABS, speed, all seem to make no difference.  I almost exclusively use 3D Solutech filament and use new rolls for testing.  I use Simplify3D as my slicing software and have used the exact settings as someone else on another board with a Davinci Pro 1.0 with an original E3d with no acceptable results.  My original extruder gears were worn so I replaced them with an SIQUK M8 all aluminum upgrade that seems to work great, (no popping and slipping), with the same results.

For an example, for one test my settings were, PLA- extrusion multiplier .90, extrusion width - auto, retraction distance 2.0mm, extra restart distance -.60mm, retraction vertical lift 0mm, retraction speed 20mm/sec, coasting at end .10mm, layer height .20mm, outline direction - outsidein, tempurature 235C, speeds 35mm/s, only retract when crossing over spaces checked, force retraction between layers not checked, only wipe extruder for outermost perimeters checked, avoid crossing outline for travel movements checked, non-manifold segment checked heal.

I don't know if my experience with E3D clone will help, but I would start the test with ABS filament if you don't have a working layer cooling fan.

Also, I don't use the thermistor came with my E3D clone unless I can flash the firmware with repetier-firmware. The temperature table are different between different thermistors and the temperature reading may not be accurate. I usually take out the stock thermistor and install it on E3D clone heat block, but I'm sure you don't want to do that with your Original E3d. Figure out a way to test your real nozzle temperature and see if it matches the reading and make your decision from there.

Your original nozzle is clogging on PLA or ABS or both? Da Vinci hotend usually works better on ABS and need some work to get it working with PLA consistently. You post is long but include very little useful information about your printer condition, slicing software, filament type and slice setting.

I had clogging issues all the time on my original nozzle but have never had a clog on the E3d but if I can’t figure this out, I’m going to have to reluctantly switch back to the original nozzle since my printer is virtually useless at this point.

ANY suggestions are much appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to read such a long post.  I have attached a few pictures and a temp test and the retraction test.