I don't think it is real ABS, might be PLA blend with ABS but not sure. That might have something to do with why xyzprinting stop selling it later. CCTREE champagne gold pla filament have similar property and can print on cold bed and smooth with acetone, if you really want to print ABS, worth a try. And it is not as expensive as xyzprinting filament.
]]>Kronikabuse wrote:carl_m1968 wrote:You can't print ABS without a heated. For ABS the heated bed is required, not an option. So unless you plan to convert to a heated bed, don't waste your money on a roll of ABS. Stay with PLA. In fact only PLA will work on a cold bed. Everything else requires a heated bed.
I print petg on a cold bed. glass and glue
You would find it prints better on heated glass.
The point of his comment was that it can be printed on a cold bed.. Blanket statements again, Carl...
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:lt72884 wrote:Thanks for that idea. I do not print ABS at the moment, still learning how to dial in the jr1.0 with third party pla haha, but when i do, which is hopefully soon, i know to use the filter. But finding abs that does not require a heated bed might be hard.
Thanks for the help
You can't print ABS without a heated. For ABS the heated bed is required, not an option. So unless you plan to convert to a heated bed, don't waste your money on a roll of ABS. Stay with PLA. In fact only PLA will work on a cold bed. Everything else requires a heated bed.
I print petg on a cold bed. glass and glue
You would find it prints better on heated glass.
]]>lt72884 wrote:n2ri wrote:vent fan for materials with fumes is needed I use a charcoal filtered one for ABS and any material can use cooling fan at nozzle for better layer adhesion and holding shape better.
but yes ABS needs heated bed and enclosure kept about 90 degrees Fahrenheit for even layer cooling of tall prints to help prevent cracking. for makeup air when venting allow air inlet at top opposite side from vent fan to keep cool air away from bed and print that way temp stays warm inside while fumes get vented. use a computer type cooling fan low volume with thin filter rack and use the foam charcoal filter material that can be cut to fit in the Walmart air purifier fan section. I use the 5" purifier fan on low speed with filter rack built in made by Holmes as my SD2 has no fan mount made in cabinet but SD3-4 do.Thanks for that idea. I do not print ABS at the moment, still learning how to dial in the jr1.0 with third party pla haha, but when i do, which is hopefully soon, i know to use the filter. But finding abs that does not require a heated bed might be hard.
Thanks for the help
You can't print ABS without a heated. For ABS the heated bed is required, not an option. So unless you plan to convert to a heated bed, don't waste your money on a roll of ABS. Stay with PLA. In fact only PLA will work on a cold bed. Everything else requires a heated bed.
I print petg on a cold bed. glass and glue
]]>n2ri wrote:vent fan for materials with fumes is needed I use a charcoal filtered one for ABS and any material can use cooling fan at nozzle for better layer adhesion and holding shape better.
but yes ABS needs heated bed and enclosure kept about 90 degrees Fahrenheit for even layer cooling of tall prints to help prevent cracking. for makeup air when venting allow air inlet at top opposite side from vent fan to keep cool air away from bed and print that way temp stays warm inside while fumes get vented. use a computer type cooling fan low volume with thin filter rack and use the foam charcoal filter material that can be cut to fit in the Walmart air purifier fan section. I use the 5" purifier fan on low speed with filter rack built in made by Holmes as my SD2 has no fan mount made in cabinet but SD3-4 do.Thanks for that idea. I do not print ABS at the moment, still learning how to dial in the jr1.0 with third party pla haha, but when i do, which is hopefully soon, i know to use the filter. But finding abs that does not require a heated bed might be hard.
Thanks for the help
You can't print ABS without a heated. For ABS the heated bed is required, not an option. So unless you plan to convert to a heated bed, don't waste your money on a roll of ABS. Stay with PLA. In fact only PLA will work on a cold bed. Everything else requires a heated bed.
]]>n2ri wrote:vent fan for materials with fumes is needed I use a charcoal filtered one for ABS and any material can use cooling fan at nozzle for better layer adhesion and holding shape better.
but yes ABS needs heated bed and enclosure kept about 90 degrees Fahrenheit for even layer cooling of tall prints to help prevent cracking. for makeup air when venting allow air inlet at top opposite side from vent fan to keep cool air away from bed and print that way temp stays warm inside while fumes get vented. use a computer type cooling fan low volume with thin filter rack and use the foam charcoal filter material that can be cut to fit in the Walmart air purifier fan section. I use the 5" purifier fan on low speed with filter rack built in made by Holmes as my SD2 has no fan mount made in cabinet but SD3-4 do.Thanks for that idea. I do not print ABS at the moment, still learning how to dial in the jr1.0 with third party pla haha, but when i do, which is hopefully soon, i know to use the filter. But finding abs that does not require a heated bed might be hard.
Thanks for the help
without a heated bed ABS will come loose quickly while trying to print, even with a glass bed and glue stick
]]>vent fan for materials with fumes is needed I use a charcoal filtered one for ABS and any material can use cooling fan at nozzle for better layer adhesion and holding shape better.
but yes ABS needs heated bed and enclosure kept about 90 degrees Fahrenheit for even layer cooling of tall prints to help prevent cracking. for makeup air when venting allow air inlet at top opposite side from vent fan to keep cool air away from bed and print that way temp stays warm inside while fumes get vented. use a computer type cooling fan low volume with thin filter rack and use the foam charcoal filter material that can be cut to fit in the Walmart air purifier fan section. I use the 5" purifier fan on low speed with filter rack built in made by Holmes as my SD2 has no fan mount made in cabinet but SD3-4 do.
Thanks for that idea. I do not print ABS at the moment, still learning how to dial in the jr1.0 with third party pla haha, but when i do, which is hopefully soon, i know to use the filter. But finding abs that does not require a heated bed might be hard.
Thanks for the help
]]>Cooling the bed is a bad idea. PLA benefit from 60-70C bed temperature and ABS benefit from 80-110C bed temperature. The major function of the case fan is to avoid heat build up in enclosure and hotend fan no longer capable cooling the throat fast enough and PLA will jam the hotend. Otherwise the cooling of the enclosure is really unnecessary.
That said, as long as inside of the enclosure is not too hot when printing PLA, you don't really need case fan. When printing PLA, one case fan near the top and blow toward outside and spin at low speed is good enough.
I do not have a heated bed at all:)
As for the case fan, i have one that is pulling air out, but i do not have one cooling the pla. I have tried the one by xyz for the jr 1.0(which is what i have) but it is not the greatest cooling duct. However, im a smart lad and can sketch something up and print it;)
thanks again. I really enjoy these forums
]]>ohh, so thats how that works. cooling for PLA, and warming for abs. That solves alot of questions for me.
I have added a fan in the back. But i am planning on adding a fan at the top but on an angle, pointing toward the print bed. And i am thinking of adding one on the side of the print bed as well.
I do have the xyz cooling duct on the extruder, but its not very efficient. I may make one that encloses the entire fan
thanks for your reply
Cooling the bed is a bad idea. PLA benefit from 60-70C bed temperature and ABS benefit from 80-110C bed temperature. The major function of the case fan is to avoid heat build up in enclosure and hotend fan no longer capable cooling the throat fast enough and PLA will jam the hotend. Otherwise the cooling of the enclosure is really unnecessary.
That said, as long as inside of the enclosure is not too hot when printing PLA, you don't really need case fan. When printing PLA, one case fan near the top and blow toward outside and spin at low speed is good enough.
]]>You need to cool the print when printing PLA, you want to keep the enclosure warm when you print ABS.
I would recommend add cooling fan near the top of the enclosure to vent out hot air since air raise to the top when get heated up. You only need to turn the fan on when print PLA and leave it off when print ABS.
Add thin layer of sponge or air filter to reduce spontaneous air exchange when the fan is off without block air sucking when the fan is on. Add on-off switch on the enclosure to control the main power, fan and LED light.
ohh, so thats how that works. cooling for PLA, and warming for abs. That solves alot of questions for me.
I have added a fan in the back. But i am planning on adding a fan at the top but on an angle, pointing toward the print bed. And i am thinking of adding one on the side of the print bed as well.
I do have the xyz cooling duct on the extruder, but its not very efficient. I may make one that encloses the entire fan
thanks for your reply
]]>I would recommend add cooling fan near the top of the enclosure to vent out hot air since air raise to the top when get heated up. You only need to turn the fan on when print PLA and leave it off when print ABS.
Add thin layer of sponge or air filter to reduce spontaneous air exchange when the fan is off without block air sucking when the fan is on. Add on-off switch on the enclosure to control the main power, fan and LED light.
]]>thanks
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