SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — First DLP prints

Re: First DLP prints

2018-10-03T07:08:50Z

No support needed

Re: First DLP prints

2018-10-02T18:16:34Z

justsomeguy wrote:

1/4 scale treefrog is on a quarter. First successful print from my d7!

Very nice !
Haven't tried the t-rex skull on DLP yet and it's a while since I printed it on FDM.
Did you use supports.

Re: First DLP prints

2018-10-02T17:02:26Z

1/4 scale treefrog is on a quarter. First successful print from my d7!

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-30T08:17:35Z

carl_m1968 wrote:

I love quality from my D7, I just wish I could find resin at a reasonable price that is as tough as an FDM printed item.

I've been getting good results with this stuff which is about 30% cheaper than most resins ...... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07 … &psc=1

This is a print I did with it from a 3D scan done with the Einscan-S. Printed at 0.025mm .....

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-30T06:42:59Z

The default setting on the Anycubic slicer is 8 base layers at 50 seconds which works well.
Another tip to prevent prints sticking to the vat is to hollow the model and use drainage holes.
The holes allow resin to drain out and also help prevent suction forces.
Depending on the print, a raft can also provide better adhesion to the build plate.

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T19:58:23Z

Yes your first 2 or three layers also known as burn-in layers on NanoDLP should be around 30 to 60 seconds on average depending on the size of the model. Getting them cured properly is one key to adhesion.

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T19:53:06Z

I thought my D7 was broken until I cranked the first layer exposure way way up. I was just starting to figure optimal exposure times when I had to pack up to move. I'm hoping to start playing with my D7 again this week. Carl's advice about object orientation is spot on. Carl is the D7 Lawsy. LOL

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T18:44:14Z

yizhou.he wrote:

In that case, NonoDLP+raspberry pi is cheap alternative of D7 box without touch screen then. I would definitely use it if my D7 doesn't come with D7 box. Right now my issue is first layer adhesion, I will try rotate my model in CW and see if that make adhesion easier.
The print stuck to the film really well, I don't know if I need to replace the film, will old film cause the same adhesion problem?

As long as the film is clear and tight it should not be an issue. The only issues with old film is it does stretch a bit and it gets solarized from the UV and starts getting cloudy.

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T18:00:26Z

In that case, NonoDLP+raspberry pi is cheap alternative of D7 box without touch screen then. I would definitely use it if my D7 doesn't come with D7 box. Right now my issue is first layer adhesion, I will try rotate my model in CW and see if that make adhesion easier.

The print stuck to the film really well, I don't know if I need to replace the film, will old film cause the same adhesion problem?

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T17:47:25Z

yizhou.he wrote:

That make sense. I'm using CW to slice the model to sd card, and print from D7 box with sd card.
I'm still bit confused about the NanoDLP right now. My D7 come with D7 box, which is kind of raspberry pi thing, I think functionally raspberry pi+ NanoDLP=D7 box, correct? I need to flash D7 firmware that support NanoDLP to work with raspberry pi+ NanoDLP, correct? Do I still need NanoDLP if I already have D7 box?

NanoDLP allows you to log into and control the printer from any WiFi enabled device. You can load files, change settings and view progress. It is also the OS that runs the Pi which drives the LCD and the printer. With NanoDLP you don't need to be at the printer or use it's touch screen. Any web enabled wifi device is your touch screen.

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T16:49:13Z

That make sense. I'm using CW to slice the model to sd card, and print from D7 box with sd card.

I'm still bit confused about the NanoDLP right now. My D7 come with D7 box, which is kind of raspberry pi thing, I think functionally raspberry pi+ NanoDLP=D7 box, correct? I need to flash D7 firmware that support NanoDLP to work with raspberry pi+ NanoDLP, correct? Do I still need NanoDLP if I already have D7 box?

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T15:59:27Z

The first few layers will be the same but as the build progresses you want to have it so the area in contact with the film get smaller if possible. You want more surface tension on the plate at all times than the film when possible once the burn in layers are made. I assume you are using CW as the host. I dumped that long ago and use NanoDLP. I only use CW for the initial arrangement of the model and adding supports if needed.

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T15:41:22Z

My build plate is V1.5, it is polished metal looking, not black. The plate looks flat, but I assume there are more advance method to find it out than look with naked eye? All my cure setting is default, I will have to check when I got home tonight. I have no idea how to optimize these setting since I have not got one successful print yet, so stick with recommended setting.

"You also have to arrange your model so there is always more surface area in contact with the plate than the film. In SLA you also have to arrange the model so that the smallest cross section possible is being printed."
I arrange my model the way I arrange in FDM machine, will that cause the problem? I thought the surface area in contact with the plate and the film is the same for the first layer, I must mis-understood something here. Is smallest cross section easier to stick to build plate? It would be very helpful if you can post some link if it is too much trouble tying, thanks.

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T15:23:54Z

yizhou.he wrote:

I got my D7 for two weeks now, spend first week just to find out D7 box will not work with space in file name. Now stuck on trying to get the print stick to the build plate. The print stuck on the bottom of vat very tight for whatever reason but not on build plate. Many guide suggest it is bed leveling issue, but tried redo the bed leveling three times, the print still stuck in the bottom.

If you have one of the black build plates you need to sand the black off and leave it slightly rough. If the plate is not flat it can also cause no sticking. How long are your first layers being cured for? You also have to arrange your model so there is always more surface area in contact with the plate than the film. In SLA you also have to arrange the model so that the smallest cross section possible is being printed.

Re: First DLP prints

2018-09-26T15:20:44Z

I got my D7 for two weeks now, spend first week just to find out D7 box will not work with space in file name. Now stuck on trying to get the print stick to the build plate. The print stuck on the bottom of vat very tight for whatever reason but not on build plate. Many guide suggest it is bed leveling issue, but tried redo the bed leveling three times, the print still stuck in the bottom.