Here is an excellent video of managing print quality vs print time with nozzles.   

yes and also shows why you need to know what you most want to print 1st b4 making a choice of printer or buy several printers one for each type/size product you print. and as We keep saying if you have any 3D printer work with what you have till you learn the ropes of 3D printing. then upgrade if needed later, if you still think 3D printing is for you. or just pay somebody to print the few items you want and save the hassle. sell your printer to somebody that can use it but dont expect what you paid for it new. and if you have any filament for it not stored in air tight area with descant to keep cool and dry or for years, it may be useless now.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogse … micrometer
A bit more accurate than the digital calipers

That looks very close to what I have.

download this test box https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4636 and slice it then use it for calibration tests in your SD2 settings. search this group for instructions on calibration of extruder like http://www.soliforum.com/post/133633/#p133633 . then post pics and results including measurements using a Digital Micrometer (which you must own for 3D printing). b4 proceeding further. btw where do you live? what state if USA?

New York State. I don't know what a micrometer is, but I have a digital caliber.

Those barrel shaped objects look good, but they don't have nearly the overhangs I want to do. Including going downward at 45 degrees like a statues arm or the letter M or something. I assume I would need a machine with multiple extruders and the use of a water soluble support material for finer models that might snap apart with same material support. Also I would like to try tri-color sometime.

you assume wrong. you do NOT "need" multiple extruders and water soluble material to create supports.
"wanting" those items is a different matter entirely.

go back to the first picture I posted.. the one of the eagle & horned skull.. that was done entirely with one extruder and one material, there were no issues with removing the supports because the machine, the material, and the slicer were set up correctly to do the job it was asked to do.
Each and every one of those downward pointing feathers in the eagle's wings required support in order for it to print correctly.

Again - YOU have to be willing to learn how to adjust, calibrate and learn about the settings in the slicer you choose to use.

If you think a single extruder printer is difficult, a dual head will be even more of a frustration for you, because that adds in a whole new set of issues.

Sorry if you are not hearing what you want to hear about all this, but it is honest, and it is factual.
There is NO miracle printer that will do everything you want to do straight out of the box.
EVERY printer is going to have its weak points that will require some effort on your part.
This is fact. This is the way it is. If you are expecting otherwise you are in for a very rude awakening.

If YOU are not willing to put in the time & effort to learn how to overcome the weak points, then this is probably not the hobby for you.

Now if you intend to print more artsy stuff like figures and such than an SLA machine may be more appropriate. However they have limited print volume unless you want to shell out $25K or more.

In either case as has already been said you can't buy a solution to your problem. You seem to want to avoid the work of owning a 3D printer and just have it print. That is not going to happen any time soon. There is nothing you can buy on the market at any cost.

Your problem comes down to simple tuning and if you are willing to work for the reward of exceptional prints. Tune and tweak your existing machine as you should be. You will only get out of a printer what you are willing to put in and this is true even for the $25K SLA laser scintered powder machines. A new machine is only going to give you new problems, not solutions. You are the solution and only solution.

While the workflow is essentially the same as for FDM and the slicing software takes stl files as input, the slicers for printers like our D7s most definitely output an SVG file for the mask for each layer. This is displayed on the lcd during printing via HDMI. The layer mask is an SVG, not part of the gcode.

If using nanodlp, it really doesn't matter. If using desktop software, it all comes out in a nice zip file so it's really quite painless.

Like Carl, I apologise for continuing the derailment of this thread.

SLA term is used on both liquid and powder material 3D printers as are a few other terms mostly preparatory like the Blue printer in Europe. due to type of light/heat device used to weld material together and what material is made of as some require more heat. also some are for more industrial lab use not home/hobby users. most of us here are the home/hobby type and deal in 3D printers under $3500 often no more than $500 lately as the market has become much more competitive driving costs down to keep sales up. this is both good & bad for us as we advance in the tech.

Not sure if you have noticed my signature, or where you get your information from?

But I own and use a D7 which is a DUV SLA printer. That means it uses a UV LED array for the curing light source and an LCD to create the photomask. This is a sub $500 printer and I can assure you that it uses the ordinary STL file exported from Tinkercad or any other CAD program. The slicer then converts it to a gcode file that contains the information the printer controller uses for creating and building the layers.

I have also owned a $1500 Formlabs Form1 SLA which uses the UV laser just like a print head on an FDM and it to used your standard STL file and converted it to gcode using the slicer that machine comes with.

Both of these can also use an SVG but it is not needed and there  is no reason to have to convert or have duplicate files. All you need is the STL just like the ones you can download from Thingiverse or as I said export from any CAD program.

Since this thread is really not about SLA printers we should stop discussing them here and derailing the thread. Besides it seems you have received old or incorrect information as all of the home consumer level SLA printers that I have seen even up to some of the higher Statasys units use STL files. SVG is reserved more for subtractive manufacturing while STL is more for additive manufacturing.