They might be beyond your current technical know-how, but I am sure they are within your ability to learn. The firmware fix is probably the most effective, and that requires only reading and asking questions. You can start with the How to Update Firmware page at the Solidoodle site - http://www.solidoodle.com/how-to-2/how- … -firmware/ This is the thread where it was developed and others have tried it - http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1165/fir … pensation/
The anti backlash solution from Thingiverse requires only a spring, a 5/16-18 nut and a printed part.
The last link is more involved, since it involves using a drill press to create a better quality nut, but the backlash solution is generally good enough.There is a lot I didn't know, and things I was intimidated by (like soldering) when I first got a printer. Having a printer made it a possibility to make things that I almost, but didn't quite entirely know how to make. I found out a few things that could be done to improve the printer like adding an SD card reader and putting a fan on the nozzle, which were beyond my own ability, but worth figuring out.
Well considering that the machine has no warranty I don't need to worry about damaging it and having no one authorized to help me fix it, but on the negative side there is no warranty and there is no technician that can help me with problems anyway.
]]>The anti backlash solution from Thingiverse requires only a spring, a 5/16-18 nut and a printed part.
The last link is more involved, since it involves using a drill press to create a better quality nut, but the backlash solution is generally good enough.
There is a lot I didn't know, and things I was intimidated by (like soldering) when I first got a printer. Having a printer made it a possibility to make things that I almost, but didn't quite entirely know how to make. I found out a few things that could be done to improve the printer like adding an SD card reader and putting a fan on the nozzle, which were beyond my own ability, but worth figuring out.
]]>You can't really tell the difference between the two resolutions because of a bad case of Z banding.
Have a look at these pages-
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56916
How should those prints appear to differ if the Z banding issue is addressed? My objects have appeared with that band since I first got the machine. I assumed it was standard, and that increasing the resolution would be the key to getting rid of them. Sounds like repairing the issue would be beyond my technical know-how. 
Have a look at these pages-
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56916
]]>Image 001.jpg (0.1mm On Left, 0.3mm On Right) the ridges seem to be roughly the same. On the left the bottom portion of the shape was rather rough and grainy. On the right there was a little curling but that I will attribute to not currently having an enclosure for the printer.
Image 002.jpg (Same as above) Although it is hard to really see the detail in these images the high res on the left filled in, in a circular method creating smaller and smaller pentagons until it got to the middle while the one on the right did the simple back and forth fill in method. One of left appeared to have burned a little also.
Image 003.jpg (Same as above) From the top they appear just about identical except the high res one felt sharper at the tip.
Image 004.jpg (Same as above) This image shows the graininess better.
What type of difference is someone supposed to notice when adjusting the printer setting to a smaller detail level? Have I maybe not picked the right option to increase detail?
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