http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-J-head-E3 … SwagNZbq7P

This one is bowden setup, but works for me after take out heat sink. I bought six of them. It feels good to have backups assuming hotend break down fast (my stock hotend did after repeatly jamming). It turns out I was wrong, looking into possibility to add extrustor and hotend to make full use of extra E3D.

Don't waste money on expensive one before you know it works for your machine. The one I got is about $8, I guess 10 of them will be close to the price of stock hotend except work better than stock hotend. Since you don't really need fan and the long ptfe tube, you can really get it for low price (keep in mind you need to back up for two hotends:). I don't like the tiny fan anyway, 40mm ball bearing is a lot more powerful and quieter.

The picture is not E3D, but have similar structure.

The heat sink and its top decide the bowden or direct drive, you don't need that, just fix the rest part to replace the stock hotend. You can also buy non-bowden E3D. You can even keep the stock thermostat and heating element to avoid make cables and change thermostat setting. But use new nozzle, heat block and nozzle throat should solve your jamming problem.

For whatever reason, E3D does not get jamed easily. It is important to adjust the height of the hotend so that the top of nozzle throat as close to extruder gear as possible. otherwise you will have trouble with flexible filament.

Outstanding ! I will give it a shot.

I am curious how to set the height properly to align with the other second head (the Davinci pipes have a set blade).

many thanks !

The picture is not E3D, but have similar structure.

The heat sink and its top decide the bowden or direct drive, you don't need that, just fix the rest part to replace the stock hotend. You can also buy non-bowden E3D. You can even keep the stock thermostat and heating element to avoid make cables and change thermostat setting. But use new nozzle, heat block and nozzle throat should solve your jamming problem.

For whatever reason, E3D does not get jamed easily. It is important to adjust the height of the hotend so that the top of nozzle throat as close to extruder gear as possible. otherwise you will have trouble with flexible filament.

Replacing with a E3D is a Bowden setup that would require a new carriage I believe. An MK8 change would be a lot easier.

Do you have any pictures of your new setup please ?

Thanks,

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss … eflon+Tube

I have Da vinci 1.0, it is very similar design, I changed my to E3D v6 all metal, just unscrew the heat sink and replace the stock hot end.

Check if nozzle are partially clogged, it is hard to see usually and create extra pressure to the filament make them jam above.

Also check if your fan blow to right place, some filament such as ABS not supposed to have fan on, and it can increase jamming if fan blows to wrong spot.

The nozzles are not clogged, good flow, no partial clogs.

This is not a fan issue, the fan worked before and works fine with the new nozzle.

There was another thread before from another user that had the same issue and no amount of cleaning the nozzle could fix it, just replacement resolved it.

http://www.soliforum.com/post/114816/#p114816

"I ran into similar trouble with my stock hotend.
It became very unreliable, even with ABS after around 150 hours printing.
No amount of cleaning made much difference.
I gave up on it and fitted an E3D Lite (cheaper than full fat E3D but limited to 240°C) which is producing fantastic prints and has so far been 100% reliable with every type of filament I've thrown at it."

Also check if your fan blow to right place, some filament such as ABS not supposed to have fan on, and it can increase jamming if fan blows to wrong spot.

I have this problem that I am hoping others might chime in on. On my Davinci 2.0 dual, after a while (1 year of operation), seems that the heads pipe throat develops a problem where the filament swell in the pipe creating frequent jams.

The only way to fix it is to dissasemble the head from the pipe and drill out carefully the cooked filament. Odd is that it first developed with the left head (used less) then now with the right head. I changed them out with new ones improved version from XYZ (EXPENSIVE since one has to buy the whole head assembly, with the board and fans) and it works for now.

The heads themselves are not clogged, seems the pipe get plugged by the filament that get jammed in rock solid.

Temperature is 235-240, ABS (right head) or HIPS (left), various filaments.

1. Is this due to the pipe not having a Teflon inner pipe ? Does the pipe develop scratches that somehow create more friction for the filament ?

2. Too high temperature ?

3. Is there a way to get a similar pipe with the Teflon inner tube ?

4. Is there a way to drill the original pipe a bit to be able to insert a Teflon inner tube ?

5. What is the simplest mod for the Duo to switch out the XYZ heads with MK8 heads and have a much better designed head to deal with cleaning or jams ? I love the MK8 head I have on my Geeetech I3B Pro.

Thanks !