<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> 2017-10-04T20:35:04Z PunBB https://www.soliforum.com/topic/16784/sd3-broken-hot-end-replace-or-buy-a-new-printer/ <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> 12v and yes it'll transfer to most any printer (12v) with proper carriage mods.  The fan can be spliced into the cooling fan wires on the extruder motor.  For your bed start with the easiest.  Go get a piece of regular glass cut at your local hardware store.  Use Aqua net hairspray to adhere it to the aluminum.  Apply plenty and heat/cool cycle 3 times.  It will bubble between creating shims to get you a nice flat surface.  This will force you to level the 3 bolts from underneath.  A simple pliers will do the job fine but have it close to begin with.  If you decide to upgrade the bed heater to a hale it will adhere under the aluminum just as your stock unit.  At this point you'd really want to consider upgrading your PSU to get the most of the Hale.  But that is an upgrade you can do later when you're tired of waiting on the stock heater.  As for shipping to CA email support@printitindustries.com and I'm sure they will work something out.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2291/ 2017-10-04T20:35:04Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138700/#p138700 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> Thanks for the feedback guys!

Few more questions:

1) So for my SD3 all I need is the fully assembled E3D and MK6, correct? (I know the MK5 will fit the SD3, will the MK6 fit it too?)

2) Which E3D do I want for my stock SD3: 12V or 24V? Do they ship to Canada?

3) If after installing the E3D I fail to make my SD3 printer properly, can I use the E3D on whatever replacement printer I will buy? I know this is a very vague question, but I guess what I am asking is if the E3D can  fit other 3D printers. (Stupid question, I know, I just want some confirmation.)

4) The E3D has a fan, how do I connect the fan? I am pretty sure my SD3 hot end has no fan or fan wiring.

5) Now you mention it, I am pretty sure my heated bed is warped because I can never calibrate all points evenly. It's always higher along the middle than the corners, and I can only adjust the corners not the middle. How do I upgrade the heated bed?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2653/ 2017-10-04T17:58:08Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138697/#p138697 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> What upgrades do you have apart from the E3D?

In order of installation:
1. E3D v6 - this was by far the best upgrade i have made.
2. Lawsy Carriages (this requires new hardened smooth rods as well - the bearings will eat the stock rods in a short time)
          The bearings allow smoother movement of the carriages versus the stock bushings. (not a necessity, but nice)
3. New controller board (due to a failure of the stock Printrboard) (not a necessity if yours is working)
4. Fan mounted to X motor (prevents overheating of the motor, which can result in skipped steps)
5. New power supply (more readily available power to the printer)
6. upgraded build plate (stock plate was severely warped)
7. Hale bed heater (shorter heat up times, more even heating) (again, not a necessity, but very nice)

Here are the problems I have with the printer:

1) Filament strips (can't print large objects, because after a while the filament strips, needs cleaning of extruder gear)

this is most likely caused by a) not enough tension on the filament gear, and/or b) improper temps of the hotend

2) Need new nozzle/extruder--broke recently

the best option to fix this has already been suggested

3) Y alignment (probably x-alignment)

Belt tension and carriage alignment are what is needed here. There is a video on how to properly align the carriages and the Y belts/pulleys. Belt tension needs to be pretty snug to keep things aligned. Looseness will allow it to get out of alignment. Also of note - both sides need to have close to equal tension - you can not have one tight & the other loose. they need to be as close as possible.

4) Gaps between infill and permiter

fix the belt tension and carriage alignment and this will be fixed

5) Extra material (pimple like) on surface

Proper filament calibration and better slicing profiles would fix this.

...

If the upgrades cost more than $225, I might as well buy the better printer, no?

Absolutely NOT. Put your money into upgrading what you already have.
you have in your possession a machine that CAN be a good machine with a little effort put into calibration/adjustments and a few dollars to upgrade what needs upgrading. The thing is, YOU must be willing to do it.

As wardjr has already said - any other printer you buy is going to need to be properly calibrated as well.
There is NO such thing as a "Plug & Play" 3d printer.
Even the high end machines that cost thousands of dollars need to be properly calibrated out of the box.
Anything less than $500 is most definitely going to need help, and would be a source of continued constant frustrations. Most "cheap" printers (the range you are suggesting) are not anywhere near rigid enough for quality printing, nor do they have quality parts in them.

In short - fix what you have. Put in the time and effort to properly calibrate it, then enjoy it.

and just to prove that I did not always turn out quality stuff... and it is possible to fix what you have...
the progression from bad calibration to good...

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/ 2017-10-03T13:40:17Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138662/#p138662 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> No, most of the problems you are experiencing come from a lack of proper calibration, poor slice profiles and easily fixed mechanical slop.   Wasting money on a new printer is only going to build on your frustration.  Because it too will need everything above.  Get a good (E3d V6) hotend and take the time to research and fix the other issues.  There's no question Heartless has several other upgrades.  And at some point you may decide to do some of those as well.  But there is no reason you couldn't install an MK6 carriage and a V6 to get similar results.  Heartless, like myself have spent years perfecting our slice profiles and dialing our machines in.  So don't get frustrated, take this opportunity to learn the finer aspects of printing and the machine you do that with.  If every time you have a problem you buy another printer, then you'll be perpetually disappointed.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2291/ 2017-10-03T02:41:48Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138659/#p138659 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> That's amazing! I don't think my SD3 can ever print anything like this! It can't even make round circles!

What upgrades do you have apart from the E3D?

Here are the problems I have with the printer:
1) Filament strips (can't print large objects, because after a while the filament strips, needs cleaning of extruder gear)
2) Need new nozzle/extruder--broke recently
3) Y alignment (probably x-alignment)
4) Gaps between infill and permiter
5) Extra material (pimple like) on surface

...

If the upgrades cost more than $225, I might as well buy the better printer, no?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2653/ 2017-10-03T02:19:19Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138658/#p138658 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> You have the opportunity to make your SD3 "better" than new.

I also have 2 SD4s and both are very reliable, very accurate machines after a few upgrades. (the SD4 is basically an SD3 with side panels).

Yes, the first one was frustrating at times, but in the end, it has been well worth it.

as a little motivation for you... this is what the E3D is capable of when installed correctly, the firmware is updated properly, and the filament is calibrated correctly...

http://soliforum.com/i/?qHb24AL.jpg

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/ 2017-10-03T00:36:29Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138657/#p138657 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> I love both my SD4's little bit of tweeking and they print awesome

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/6797/ 2017-10-02T17:16:34Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138647/#p138647 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/com … ours_with/

I know it's the Solidoodle Press not the SD3, but all Solidoodles seem to have some serious design flaws.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2653/ 2017-10-02T17:15:02Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138646/#p138646 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> Its worth it

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/6797/ 2017-10-02T17:12:32Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138645/#p138645 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> Thanks. I wasn't planning to buying a knock-off. I am just not sure it's worth investing $90 in the SD3 versus a new Monoprice Select Mini for $225.

Even if I buy a new E3D for the SD3, I am afraid I will still have the same old problems: gaps between infill and perimeter, etc, etc, etc...

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/2653/ 2017-10-02T17:12:15Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138644/#p138644 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> fadilee wrote:

You are the best!

Can you tell me what part(s) I need to have a fully functioning printer? My printer is stock.

Kronikabuse has given you the links you need to do the job...

do NOT buy the knock off from Aliexpress - they are junk and will give you no end of problems - this is a proven fact.

the genuine E3D is only sold by certain vendors. If you find them on Amazon, Ebay, Ali-express, or any other mass outlet like them, you can bet they are NOT the real deal.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/ 2017-10-02T11:20:12Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138636/#p138636 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> knowack wrote:

I put an E3Dv6 in my stock carriage on my SD4.  I just took a dremel tool and ground down that top collar on the E3Dv6, so that it was a cylinder.  I don't know how the carriage differs between an SD3 and SD4.

yeah, that does not work with the acrylic setup of the SD3.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/ 2017-10-02T11:15:43Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138635/#p138635 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> then follow this http://www.soliwiki.com/Updating_Solidoodle_Firmware

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/6797/ 2017-10-02T10:28:32Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138633/#p138633 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -assembled
https://www.printitindustries.com/products/mk6-extruder

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/6797/ 2017-10-02T10:23:54Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138631/#p138631 <![CDATA[Re: SD3 broken hot end: replace or buy a new printer]]> I put an E3Dv6 in my stock carriage on my SD4.  I just took a dremel tool and ground down that top collar on the E3Dv6, so that it was a cylinder.  I don't know how the carriage differs between an SD3 and SD4.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/4251/ 2017-10-02T02:50:07Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/138626/#p138626