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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/16756/" />
	<updated>2017-09-20T13:45:20Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/16756/petg-and-glue-sticks/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138311/#p138311" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>the bed temp does not necessarily need to be hotter - the hotend temp does... hot and slow is what i have found.</p><p>temps between 230 &amp; 250C, depending on the material, for better hotends like the E3D.</p><p>If you are using the stock Solidoodle hotend, you probably wont get hot enough to really print well with PETG.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[heartless]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-20T13:45:20Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138311/#p138311</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138308/#p138308" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>check your product label it should give recommendations for cleanup.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Tin Falcon]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6775/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-19T23:19:00Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138308/#p138308</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138284/#p138284" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I thought PETG needed a hotter bed? It sticks most of the time when I didn&#039;t use glue, but even one out of 10 not sticking is enough to make me start using glue, though I hate it. I went back to blue tape for now. Thanks for the replies. I will try some mineral spirits Tin.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[pap4tinker]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/16224/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-19T15:49:33Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138284/#p138284</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138220/#p138220" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>ok, from my limited experience with PETG, you should not need any thing extra besides good clean glass and bed temp of 55-60C should be sufficient...</p><p>If you are having issues with a print not staying down, my suggestion would be to re-level the bed just a smidge closer to the nozzle. </p><p>the greater majority of bed adhesion problems - regardless of the material - are from too much gap between bed &amp; nozzle.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[heartless]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-18T12:52:00Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138220/#p138220</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138217/#p138217" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>well in that case try some goo gone or goof off. maybe a little mineral sprirts if you have some on hand.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Tin Falcon]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6775/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-18T10:42:35Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138217/#p138217</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138197/#p138197" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>Tin Falcon wrote:</cite><blockquote><div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>Scotch® Purple Glue Sticks 6108-2N, 0.25 oz. 2/ pack - strong, fast-bonding, permanent adhesive, and safe for children. You can see where you apply it, but it dries clear. <strong>Hands and household surfaces clean easily with soap and water.</strong> Great for paper, photos, and other lightweight items. Non-toxic.</p></blockquote></div><p>From the fastenal product page of all places.<br />Just a matter finding the right solvent&nbsp; in this case di hydrogen monoxide.</p></blockquote></div><p>I&#039;m afraid my glue stick is more potent than 2 hydrogens and one oxygen can handle! But thanks for the reply, it took me a bit to catch that one!</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[pap4tinker]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/16224/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-18T03:13:27Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138197/#p138197</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138195/#p138195" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>carl_m1968 wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>Where you using clean glass or glass and hairspray?</p></blockquote></div><p>I was using clean glass with glue stick.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[pap4tinker]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/16224/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-18T03:09:26Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138195/#p138195</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138178/#p138178" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>Scotch® Purple Glue Sticks 6108-2N, 0.25 oz. 2/ pack - strong, fast-bonding, permanent adhesive, and safe for children. You can see where you apply it, but it dries clear. <strong>Hands and household surfaces clean easily with soap and water.</strong> Great for paper, photos, and other lightweight items. Non-toxic.</p></blockquote></div><p>From the fastenal product page of all places.<br />Just a matter finding the right solvent&nbsp; in this case di hydrogen monoxide.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Tin Falcon]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6775/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-17T19:37:21Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138178/#p138178</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138172/#p138172" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Where you using clean glass or glass and hairspray?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[carl_m1968]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/7731/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-17T18:12:58Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138172/#p138172</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[PETG and glue sticks]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/138171/#p138171" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I&#039;ve been printing with PETG on glass, and was having an issue with it sticking (my bed temp only reaching 60C). I started using a scotch brand permanent glue stick and have not had an issue with sticking since. My problem now lies in removing the glue residue from the print AND leaving little imperfections in the print surface. This is only a problem when the bottom layer is the viewing surface of the finished print of course. So I&#039;m back to blue tape for this project for now. Any thoughts or suggestions? I&#039;ve tried alcohol and acetone to remove the residue so far.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[pap4tinker]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/16224/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-17T17:54:49Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/138171/#p138171</id>
		</entry>
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