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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/16704/" />
	<updated>2017-09-03T17:03:10Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/16704/upgraded-hotend-to-prevent-jamming/</id>
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			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/137707/#p137707" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Could be I&#039;ll check that.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[petra2201]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/1998/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-03T17:03:10Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/137707/#p137707</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/137700/#p137700" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>The fan on the extruder heatsink of my SD2 almost always fails to come on when I power up the printer. It needs a little push to get going. If I forget to do this, heat builds up to the point where the drive gear is hot enough to soften the plastic and cause this problem after it&#039;s been running for a while. Could that be your problem?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[justsomeguy]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/302/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-03T15:41:07Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/137700/#p137700</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/137662/#p137662" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>In a word, yep.<br />But it&#039;s more involved than that.&nbsp; Go with a genuine E3d V6 or lite 6.&nbsp; Get the correct Mk6 extruder assembly.&nbsp; Flash the firmware to work correctly with the new thermistor and Max temp settings.&nbsp; Most info found in the WIKI is still pertinent and will give you an idea of what&#039;s involved.&nbsp; The E3d is much more precise so Moiré will become an issue.&nbsp; This can be eliminated mostly with proper VREF tuning.</p><p>Do your research and decide for yourself.&nbsp; Then take the plung and never look back.</p><p>Find what you need at our site a few of us here started to help with exactly this type of thing.<br /><a href="https://www.printitindustries.com/">https://www.printitindustries.com/</a></p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[wardjr]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/2291/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-02T17:12:01Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/137662/#p137662</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/137658/#p137658" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Thanks to all the help this forum has given me so far I&#039;ve eliminated my y-axis shift, replaced my belts and have gotten my printer to work better than it has in years. I have one last problem, I need some advice on.<br />I can print a couple of things and they come out okay not perfect but usable. However any long jobs or repeat jobs and I&#039;ll get a jam after a couple of hours. The filament bends just between the hot end and the feed gear. My hotend is stock and has never been replaced. Would replacing the hotend fix this?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[petra2201]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/1998/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-09-02T15:26:52Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/137658/#p137658</id>
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