Have you tried printing with a brim?

Add one with 3-5mm and it should improve things.
Also ensure the first layer is well and truly squashed onto the bed- adjust the z offset for that

Not that one yet, I will tomorrow night, but I've had 7 successful prints today. And I should have my settings right to work in the future *Knocks on wood*

So I did hairspray and glass, and enclosed my build area, but for the life of me, I can't get this watch stand to print wiothout warping

Maybe it's the wrong hairspray?
Bed temp 100c

Have you tried printing with a brim?

Add one with 3-5mm and it should improve things.
Also ensure the first layer is well and truly squashed onto the bed- adjust the z offset for that

Schieggster wrote:

So I did hairspray and glass, and enclosed my build area, but for the life of me, I can't get this watch stand to print wiothout warping

http://i.imgur.com/XPiE82h.jpg

Maybe it's the wrong hairspray?
Bed temp 100c

I have yet to build an enclosure and i hope I don't still have the same curling issue afterwards, but out of curiousity how much time do you allow for the insides to heat up before you start the print?

Sometimes, Until it say's 100c for bed temp, but I'm assuming I need to let the enclosure warm up too?

So I did hairspray and glass, and enclosed my build area, but for the life of me, I can't get this watch stand to print wiothout warping

http://i.imgur.com/XPiE82h.jpg

Maybe it's the wrong hairspray?
Bed temp 100c

I have yet to build an enclosure and i hope I don't still have the same curling issue afterwards, but out of curiousity how much time do you allow for the insides to heat up before you start the print?

Rocketman wrote:

cmetzel wrote:

Just put the screw in from the bottom, leave the holder alone,  the head of the screw is facing down gives you more length.

So than the only thing I will need is to adjust the screw to create enough space between the extruder and the piece of glass I clip down on the platform? And somehow taking the screw out and reinserting it from underneath (which I assume would also change the clockwise/counter clockwise adjustments) it has more length? I think the printer should have come with a screw long enough to pop right out of the top of the machine both so it has all the length anyone could need as well as being more accessable.

BOLD = correct

You want the distance between the glass and the extruder tip to match the distance between the bed with kapton and the extruder tip.

The printer isn't designed to be used with glass and hairspray that's why you have to change things around.

So than nothing really needs to be "inverted?" i just need to create seperation? Is there a way to tell the extruder to lightly go down onto the edge of the platform so I can visually see the platform go down as I turn the screw and eventually slide the glass in there?

cmetzel wrote:

Just put the screw in from the bottom, leave the holder alone,  the head of the screw is facing down gives you more length.

So than the only thing I will need is to adjust the screw to create enough space between the extruder and the piece of glass I clip down on the platform? And somehow taking the screw out and reinserting it from underneath (which I assume would also change the clockwise/counter clockwise adjustments) it has more length? I think the printer should have come with a screw long enough to pop right out of the top of the machine both so it has all the length anyone could need as well as being more accessable.

BOLD = correct

You want the distance between the glass and the extruder tip to match the distance between the bed with kapton and the extruder tip.

The printer isn't designed to be used with glass and hairspray that's why you have to change things around.

Just put the screw in from the bottom, leave the holder alone,  the head of the screw is facing down gives you more length.

So than the only thing I will need is to adjust the screw to create enough space between the extruder and the piece of glass I clip down on the platform? And somehow taking the screw out and reinserting it from underneath (which I assume would also change the clockwise/counter clockwise adjustments) it has more length? I think the printer should have come with a screw long enough to pop right out of the top of the machine both so it has all the length anyone could need as well as being more accessable.

Maybe it's the wrong hairspray?
Bed temp 100c

I picked up some feeler guages at amazon, that way I know what distance I am at if I need to the adjust Z screw up or down
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BY … &psc=1

Well, I'm planing on stopping by Harbor Freight, to grab an IR Thermometer, Calipers and a set of feeler gauges.

Suggestions on Print head distance? I know printer paper is about .10 mm.

It's not that finicky.  On a clean sheet of glass I put a dusting, but I reapply it every other print up to maybe 3-4 times.  So anywhere from just a little to a bunch should work fine.  Maybe it's more critical with .1mm printing but start out with just a light spray and see what your results are.

I did have an issue with printing a long rectangular piece 4"Lx2"W , bed at 100C with Hairspray and glass, it just refuses to stick... perhaps I need to level the bed? What would y'all suggest to best judge distance, I've asked before, but printer paper seems a bit thin.