And my model has been sliced by then anyway.  For me slicing is part of the iterative design/modeling process.  I have never had the occasion to print a part I did not model. When I boot the printer I am ready to print.

Regardless, this thread was about an economical way to improve performance by utilizing some assets that are already on the printer that may have been disconnected due to a hack.  Not time management, which is not a hack.

No worries.  Next project, redo the crappy enclosure I made 4 years ago.  I have some 1/4 inch polycarb that I scavanged from a fume hood sitting next to a dumptser behind the neighboring prosthetics company (a few Benjamins retail).

I am not a hoarder.

the Hale is far and away, leaps and bounds better. Even on a 3/16" thick aluminum plate with 3mm thick mirror tile on top of that, it takes Less than 10 mins to get to operating temp... I turn the bed on, and while it is heating, I will load my model, tinker with slicer settings, & slice - by the time I decide the model is ready for printing, the bed is hot and ready to go - and the heat is even across the bed, no hot spots, no cold spots - i can run stuff right out to the edge of the bed with no problems.

Oh, and i don't hoard either, lol  *shoves the tote with excess parts further under the desk with her toe*

I had already purchased the MK2 and the rest came out of my "junk" bins.  So I paid around $13, plus the cost of storage in a plastic tote in my garage for who knows how long.

I am not a hoarder.  I say this to anyone who is around when I re-purpose someone's junk.

So, if over the years that the MK2 has existed anyone here has installed one and would like a 50 or 60% power bump for a little wiring and no tear down:  For the cost of a $9 relay and a $20 power supply ...

Not advocating, just information.

In that post I was annoyed that that the new MK2 PCB bed running at 24V was no faster heating than the original equipment 12V silicone pad.

Solution:
Short answer:  Connect the MK2 and the silicone pad (I left it on as insulation) in series and run them at 24V.  Heats up in 7min.

Longer answer: The MK2 bed measured 6ohm across the 24V leads and 3ohm across the 12V leads (duh).  The silicone pad measured 2ohms.  Wired the MK2 for 12V and connected it in series with the silicone pad. 3+2=5ohms.

20% power increase form 96W to 115W.  Current increases from 4A to ~5A.  That is okay for me since the the 24V supply is good for 15A and I am running it through a 30A solid state relay controlled directly from the original bed heater MOSFET on the Sanguinolulu.

Maybe should run the bed PID routine, but the glass does a good job of damping the power bumps.

Did I mention it heats up in 7min.